supernova_6969

not much interest. no matter. I solved the issue, so i`ll write it for future reference. I ended up removing the "washer" that is in the middle of the shaft. Im my car it's help in place by circlips, si I removed all of that , and it was a toothless path, and shorter too. I ended up cleaning the shaft VERY thoroughly (or else the tape peels), putting some packing tape on the end (sharp lip) and on the grooves where the ciclips are inserted, and the seal slip over everything without too much effort (with lots of lube).

hi! I`m rebuilding my rack and pinion (a seal burst). took it all apart, changed all the seals, and now started putting it back together. one of the first step is to insert the rack in the tube, teethed side in.. to do that, they recommend putting a plastic film around the shaft where there are teeth, so the teeth don't chew up the new seal. here is a photo from the manual. I tried using electrical tape, and then 2 layers of packing tape, all super lubed up, but it was very hard to even get the seal started on the shaft, and as soon as I started sliding it down, the tape would get super shredded between the shaft's teeth teeth and the seal. (panic!) next, I tried to use a thin plastic sheet (from food packaging). that seemed promising except that I wasn't even able to get the seal started on the shaft.. I guess that adds too much thickness to the shaft diameter. I plan on trying again tonight, maybe with only covering the toothed part of the shaft with the plastic sheet (instead of wrapping it around).. but I was wondering if anyone else had experience with this and what could be used to protect that seal. thanks!!! seb

they are still on their website... man, I'd seen some that were expensive, but that's CRAZY!! 250$ per side.. Then again, to someone who's not a cheapskate like me who's properly restoring their car, it`s just part of the game. I guess the lack of demand makes it expensive to make, no economy of scale...

hi! I printed it out of PLA, with 5 walls and 30% infill. the 5 walls were probably overkill. there wasn`t much pressure even pushing the center in, and the mold is SOLID. Here is an image of the cross section of the mold.. there is also a center plug and a tiny plug that sticks in the side, to create hole in the part that sticks out. here is all the parts, including the bolt that I used to squish the center in... essentially, since I wasn't pouring in material, I was injecting very slowly and painfully from a caulking gun, I slightly filled the bottom ridge (to avoid voids), then a ring around the bottom 1/3 in both halves (leaving the center part mostly empty, to be filled with the center plug) , like this: Then I put matted the two halves, put them in a vice (the holes on the side, with the square projections, are for nuts and bolts to hold the mold together, but ended up being too small) and pressed in the center bit in from the top, by hand at first, then finished it with the big bolt, through the center (with a nut under). that squished all the material up, filling almost all the mold without any voids. It would look like this (but filled and with a bolt running in the center, vertically): (the screws on top were for pulling the center out after it cured... it didn`t help actually, I wiggled it loose) After that, I pushed in the side plug (push then screw in the center plug) and filled the top from above. it worked out really well, with minimal waste.. I hope that's somewhat clear. if not, let me know what part isn't, and I`ll edit it to make sense.

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*admins, please put this where you think it goes. this was the best section I found for it.... Hi guys. So. last year, I changed my front suspension. and as I foolishly turned the wheel hub by hand (with a lot of strenght to overcome resistance), making the rack and pinion move as I did that and and one of the rack and pinion seals blew. Fast forward to this year (cause I'm lazy and didn't do it during the winter), I took the rack out and am rebuilding it. As I did that, I realized my passenger side rack bushing, which has been copiously bathed in engine oil for years, was shot. All mushy and broken. And just my luck, they don't really sell them anywhere, or if they do they charge an arm and a leg for it. or it's just the driver side. or... whatever. So I made one! Here is the crummy one next to the brand new one. I used the measurements from the rack, the old bushing and the bracket that holds the rack in place to 3d design mold, 3d printed it, greased it up with petroleum jelly, and some (not all tha tmuch, actually) 3M windshield urethane (high viscosity, which cures a little harder)... Here are some more shots of it, including fitted on the rack, and with the bracket that holds the rack on.. I'd say the hardness is right on par with the other side's bushing which is old but still looks healthy. Yes the surface finish is a little rough, but it's sound.. I'm happy with it. I'll be putting it back on the car as soon as I motivate my sorry ass to put the rack and pinion back together (btw, used a 55 CAD$ kit, that came with almost all the seals (all the important ones, really), and that worked really well. it's not hard at all following the FSM manual). I'll make certain to wrap it really well in some plastic or another to try to keep the oil off of it (yeah I know I should fix the leak). If I'd have to do it again, I'd try the lower viscosity urethane as this one was a b*tch to get out the tube... if I'd live in the states, I'd buy some pourable 2-part urethane and simply pour it in, but there is none around me, at least not in reasonable quantities at a reasonable price. THAT would be a dream to use... This technique can be done for the other side as well, or any other similar bushing. if anyone is interested I can post pictures of my mold (4 parts), and even share the 3d files. Keep in mind that this bushing is bigger than the driver side (I have the files for 3d printing the other one too) and won't fit older models. Making a new model for a mold for any sort of similar part is a pretty quick affair and printing one in this size was about 6$s worth of plastic. I can also make and sell some, if anyone is in need of one. Questions welcomed. have a good night! s.

Hi Derek. It`s been a while (time wise) that we've seen some form of an update in production. I'd be curious to see a breakdown of all the heads you`ve made and what happened to them. for example headd 001- - prototype, scrapped headd 002, prototype, in my car head 003, vvt prototype, scrapped. head 004 - client was dynoed on a 3.2 to xxx hp.. head...... *****note that all these are made up!!!! something like that. maybe including the future plans, like how many heads have been ordered and are "in production". thanks! s

hey! I miss your updates... can't wait to see what is next on the cars.. did you end up posting some new work here on hybridZ for your other cars? s

hey! so.. what's the news. I know it's been a while, but did you manage to get the engine rebuilt? how is she doing now?

are you looking for something new or used? same level of power or more? got a budget in mind? I have an aftermarket T3/T04E on mine, didn`t pick it it came modified. wikipedia says (it`s true if I can remember) that "The turbocharged 280ZX used a single Garrett AiResearch TB03 turbocharger with an internal wastegate"... this post has a few options..

Hey jdm junkie. I'm franciphone (from quebec). If you want, give me the person's email, i'll write to them and figure out the history. Send me a private message and we'll figure out the details. Sebastien

@B50MX hey! thanks for sharing! seems like a mighty nice build, fun to drive too! simple, but to the point, and it works, which is more than my car can say. seems like you have a nice, evenly balanced setup.. 👍

smoothz nice! I`ve really not ridden mine since I changed my shocks and I had problems with the steering, which i`m still working on (not often),. but whatever runs around the block I did, I also say a night and day change...

hi tokuzumi. I live in quebec, canada, where we normally have a lot of rust., although it seems my car never saw much moisture.. I had no issues what so ever, so I wouldn`t worry too to much. The good thing about this set up is you can remove the shock and top plate by removing the 3 nuts that are on the shock tower.. this way, you have better access to the central nut, if I remember. Worst come to worse, if you're changing the shocks themselves (after 41 years, i`m guessing yes) and the top nut won't budge, you can always put a pair of vice grips on the shaft and use an impact or a long breaker bar on the nut. but only if you are changing the shocks, as that would mar the finish on the shaft and break the seal on the shock. good luck, and let us know. seb