jacky4566

Well that's.. Unique. I see the holy grail as an electric axial compressor right in the intact tract. Boost on demand and super easy to retro fit.

Jackson Racing did something similar for the B18c. Supercharger feeds directly into A2W block then down the runners.

While your plan sounds genius. Surely it must be easier to mount a toothed ring somewhere on the hubs (maybe sandwiched with the rotor?) and use something more flexible like the bosch system. You would want something tuneable as well since stock abs tends to be over excitable. Also all you truck guys. The ABS system usually comes on really early when the vehicle is unloaded. Without Normal Force on the rear wheels they dont have much friction so the ABS is quick to "unbreak" all the tires. I say have at it. Let use know how it goes.

Haha Tony D your probably my favorite person on this forum. But your right. On a SOHC you cant change the relationship between intake and ext. But changing the cam timing should change the peak hp rpm right? So it stands to reason that vvti type system should still have benefit on a SOHC. KidandhisCar that sounds like a vtec type system? Its changing the valve lift right? I did see that Mahle developed these trick camshafts. http://www.mahle.com/mahle/en/news-and-press/press-releases/mahle-camincam-variable-valve-train-increases-torque-significantly.jsp Super cool idea! Probably cost 20k though.

Why would you need a working car? Just plug in the numbers and fire it up. MafV * Transfer function * AFR = Pulse width. Done. Regardless. You are on the right path. The autotune should get you most of the way there with a good O2 sensor.

FYI You can just use a turbo map. Without boost they are similar enough. Then tune your VE tables with the wideband. With a cam and porting your going to need custom tuning anyway. Also going to push you to MAF. Just so much easier.

I would still recommend testing and measuring your deadtime. When running small injectors its not a big deal but the closer you are to deadtime the larger the error. It's not a magic number you can just find online, it changes depending on your driver circuitry, wiring, grounding, other EMI devices on the 12v. Follow this guide: If you dont have graduated cylinders you can also weigh the fuel mass. That's what i did. 250g for each pulse width.

Ah i didn't know you are using MS1. Do you have a thread on MSextra yet? Those guys are the real guru. Post your MSQ and i can probably help a bit more

Are you using closed loop fueling for cruise? Sounds like your PID settings are wrong. Also you should be measuring dead time manually for every installation. It really helps trust me.

Has anyone ever investigated adding VVT to the L series heads? Seems like it would be "easy" given the first cam tower is removable and has an oil feed. In my mind one would simply need a new front cam tower with integrated solenoid a custom camshaft and an adjustable cam gear from a chain driven engine. Just curious.

I think your post gave me cancer...Please make your own thread instead of hijacking mine. You need to know the cam phase if you want FULL sequential. You need either the sensor discussed here, the Turbo dizzy, or some device of your own creation. You can do Semi-sequential with just a 36-1 crank which i would suggest if you're not possessed like many of us here. - Throttle body is not required. I use the stock TB with a 90s nissan TPS grafted onto it. Just butcher the stock TPS for a mounting plate. - I will need ls2 coilpacks. Or Toyota coil packs, i think they look much nicer than Coil near plug. - What sensors can be used from L28e or do they all need to be replaced with newer sensors (water temp, tps...)? Have people installed knock sensors? New sensors are recommended. Someone here has all the bias information. Do a search. -You will need MS3x or mspro for full sequential none of the others have enough I/O.

Cutting springs is only suitable for hillbilly racing. Adding to 74_5.0L_Z's response if you cut the springs the ride will be very bouncy since at the top of travel the springs are just floating. This can be scary if you hit a bump at high speed.

Why don't you row it through the gears and figure out the ratios? Put into first. Spin input 10 times and count output rotations. Repeat for all gears. This will help you identify what you have.

Main page: "THIS SITE IS DOWN FOR MAINTENANCE ADMIN."

How much is a turbo dizzy now $120? Not really worth it for an inaccurate sensor. The shaft wobbles and can be off several degrees when load changes occur. IMO the best value solution is a 36-1 wheel mounted to the crank with a long bolt (10.9 grade) and a VR/ Hall sensor $70? Best value for a solid trigger. madkaw i dont really see the advantage to a flywheel setup, wouldn't you have to balance the wheel after drilling. Unless you have absolute precision in your drill holes. Then you have to muck about with making sure the holes are big enough to detect and the space and how do you handle TDC/ missing tooth?

Yup, Matt already got it. There is a two different modes you can work in. Duel Wheel w/ missing tooth on main > The main wheel gets crank angle and TDC. The cam wheel is only used for phasing. Duel Wheel > The main wheel gets crank angle. Cam wheel gets TDC and phasing.

30+ years? Look at the L28 for example. Everyone has been using them as race engine fairly heavily from 1970 -1990s and yet you can still find them for less that $1000 easy.

Not sure why you need this? Im almost certain its hall sensor with a square wave signal. Just use a pullup and set your voltage cutoff to 2.5v. Its a halfmoon wheel soo... 1? http://www.cherokeeforum.com/attachments/f67/80652d1323055504t-camshaft-position-sensor-out-alignment-img_1615.jpg

Man there is whole books on this topic but generally ITB are better mainly for response but also benefit because you no longer need a plenum to distribute air. In the world of intake design its all about laminar flow. A short ITB with no curves will flow better than a twisty manifold.

If you needle is dancing, the cable needs to be greased or replaced. But WOW! pricey unit just to drive an old speedo. I think id rather put in a new gauge. Custom design and additional functions. For the really tech savvy guys you could just convert the old speedo to a stepper and GPS for a fraction of the cost. As a side note. Does the Speed hut GM/Chrysler Sender fit in the Datsun transmission? http://www.speedhut.com/ecommerce/product/630/Speedometer-Sender-GM-Chrysler-Style-magnetic-pulse

Ah yea that is correct. First glance at that design made it look like the fail would cause a complete loss. It's still the worst design of the bunch because if the motor seized, as can happen with overheating, then you lose control.

Depends on the box and how it fails. If it uses a worm gear like this then i wont matter so much when you lose power or motor fails. But if it uses a differential gear setup like this you would be screwed if the motor decides to free spin. Some even use creative solutions like this belt drive.

Inspired by madkaw's idea I went and build a cam angle sensor for Megasquirt 3x. So here is a quick write up on how I did it. Please verify all dimensions for yourself as this is only just what worked in my case using the stock dizzy riser thing. Use a modern Jeep 4.0 Cam angle sensor. It fits directly into the L series dizzy hole. Can be had at wreckers for cheap. This one: http://dgzmd7u6z2by7.cloudfront.net/partimage/CPS/1ACPS00024/large.JPG alt: http://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/img/medium/a1c/30s4601-fro.jpg Cut shaft to length. 60.3mm from the mounting face to the cut worked for me. Could be a smidge more as an afterthought. Cut slot for pump shaft. I did this by hand with an angle grinder but you can be a little more professional. *The slot is offset! so measure each side with calipers and keep cutting until its perfect. It helps to have an extra pump shaft for test fitting or pull yours. As measured on the Jeep shaft one side will be 5.85mm at the thickest point and the other will be 4.45mm for a 3.2mm slot. Use the Jeep oil pump gear as a retainer. Flip it around and drill a hole (with a drill press! unlike this idiot) for the spring pin. Make sure to keep a small gap of 0.1mm between the gear and the washer so it doesn't bind. This will only work with a non-turbo since the turbo have a funky star shape instead of the simple slot. Wiring is simple: Orange - 5vref Black w/ Yellow - agnd Tan w/Yellow - MS3X cam input. Use internal pullup and set for open collector. 5.2.14.2 in the manual. I still need to scope it out for the correct voltage. So far 300km and it works great. no sync loss.

I dont mean to hassle you but did you even look in the for sale section? http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/125799-full-1983-280zx-turbo-motor-950-obo/

Are you using the stock N/A harness? You might need to add a few plugs because I know the turbos had an extra thermosensor on the back (passenger side) of the head. And a knock sensor.