MYRON

There is not a stock replacement available that mounts to the factory datsun flange with a TH350, or at least nothing that I have ever heard of. Your best bet would be to take your drive shaft to a local driveshaft/cv axle shop and get a new on made. They can either mate your factory shaft to a TH350 yoke, or you can get a complete new on made. I did both... The "put together" unit cost me 135.00.. The all new one made up was 275.00... Myron

What diff. is used in the NEW model 240's? My dad bought one for my sister the other day that needed a little work. We had it on the lift and noticed that it had a pretty healthy looking pumpkin with c/v joints... I think it is around a 92 model.... Myron

FastZdriver, I used the hooker "Tuned Flow" origially on my car. they have kinda the same concept as the supertrapp. They do not use bolt in discs but instead you rotate a cylinder with a half moon cut at the front of the muffler. You can actually adjust the exhaust flow by 40%.. They look really cool but turned out to be too restrictive for my motor (approx 475hp). They have a raspy sound very similar to the Supertrapps... I used them for about 500 miles. they sell in Summitt for 138.00 EACH.. I would take 100.00 for both... Look at them in summit or on hookers site.. Myron

Scrounge,scrounge,scrounge! You can search junk yards,auctions sites, insurance lots. magazines adds. Go to the local track and shoot the bull with the local racers. they are always upgrading and selling used parts... Myron

Mark, The axle in the 4x4 is a solid one. Are you going to try to switch the innards (ring pinion planetaries)between the IRS and the solid axle truck unit? Myron

How about a guage pod for the windshield pillar? Or a guage pod like the mustang guys put on the earlier mustangs... How about carbon fiber Z emblems? Myron

I just paid the 60 bucks and they told me ignition (250 misfires logged)! When my dad and I took the old optispark apart we found where it was misfiring in the cap/rotor. we also found that the metal heat shield caps that cover some of the spark plugs were arcing through the head of the wire... I just hosed it down with carb cleaner and also put a bunch of injector cleaner in it. Im going to drive it to dallas to see if it clears up..

Well, I put the car all back together. That was a real treat! Anyway, it still runs like crap! I checked the fuel pressure as Andrew suggested and it is around 45 psi at idle and it jumps when you hit the throttle. It seems to have NO low end power, but when you stand on it and the rpms are above 4k it seems to be pulling pretty good, it shifts hard and I ran it up to about 120mph no problem.. the service engine light flashes about 50 times then stops for about 30 seconds Any more suggestions? Myron

You have about 300lbs to play with! I think you could reinforce the 240 for less than a 100lbs.... Myron

Andrew, the shop told me that the computer logged over 250 misfires. There are other things that I think confirm an ignition problem. The early ignition causing the engine to pop back against the starter and breaking the whole head of the starter. Plus the water pump went out about 6 months ago and it leaked all over the optispark unit. Then it threw a belt an a piece of debris got tangled in the crank pully and it started leaking oil all over the optispark unit as well. plus the 115,000 miles on it without getting a tune up didnt help much. I will check the fuel pressure when i get it all apart though! Myron

Viper, My car is around 475hp and over 400ftlb of torque. I have some sticky yokohama rubber and a STOCK torgue converter. The car hooks very well. almost no wheelspin unless I brake torque first. Some concrete surfaces are batter than others though... I took Bobby (nos350z) for a ride the other day, he can attest to the traction. RickB's car hooks very well also with nitto drag radials and he runs in the 7's in the 8th mile. If you build all your power at a very low rpm you may have a problem. My car really doesnt come to life until 3k.. By then I am well under way and I dont have to worry about wheelspin. Myron

Bobby, The car misses at all rps. At idle it sits there and "chugs" away. My best guess is that the combination of the water pump then the front main seal going has just contaminated the whole mess. It took about 2 hours to change the water pump. That included me going to the parts house to get it. You must also consider the fact that I had the use of a lift and air tools which makes things tons easier. I was considering using an LT/LS 1 on my next Z car, but I think I changed my mind.

I just put a water pump on ot 6 months ago. then the belt came apart and a small piece of debris went behind the pulley and tore up the front main seal. I think the oil leaking on the ignition caused the misfires. I am going to try the basic tune up(cap/rotor) first. I may still need the optispark sensor..Rick you listening!... This whole deal will be my Saturday fun day.. I sure am glad my dad has a lift!! Myron

I just called the shop to find out the diagnosis on my TransAm... Basic tune-up 942.00 includes cap/rotor/wires/plugs/installation so I called the dealership to double check the prices.. Optispark sensor 436.80 cap/rotor kit 207.00 wires/plugs 240.00 install it myself (12 pack) 8.99 so I called Autozone cap/rotor 162.99 wires 79.00 plugs 49.00 install it myself 2.99 bottle of (boonesfarm) Just call me strawberry hill! Myron

that would be great, but the dealership quoted me 436.00 for the optispark unit 207.00 for a cap and rotor and 240.00 for wires and plugs!!.. I am making a new post look for LT1's and overpriced parts! Myron

I put it the shop today. The lt1 has a crank triggered timing set. I dont have access to the computer that you can plug into it to do the troubleshooting. I hope it is nothing serious.... Myron

Well, Now I am having ignition and fuel problems of another type. My daily driver (97 TransAM Lt1) is giving me fits. Does anyone know anything about these motors?. Here is what it did. 2 weeks ago after sitting for a couple days It misfired bad causing the starter not to be able to turn it over. Kinda like way advanced timing and the engine popping back agains the starter. I let it sit a minute then tried again. It started and ran fine all week to and from Dallas. This weekend my wife went to drive it and she said when she tried to start it that it made a loud "pop" and then sounded funny when she cranked it and it woudlnt start. I get in it and it cranked for along time before sputtering to life. It resumed idling and would rev up plenty strong but I could hear a rattle from the bottom side of the motor. I eased it up to my dads shop and removed the tourqe converter cover to find that the backfire popped back so hard on the starter the the whole head/bearing portion of the starter was broke off and rattling around in there. I replaced the starter and when I tried to drive it home It is performing something like a sick 6 cylinder car. It shudderes and runs real slow..... Any ideas? Myron

The pressure seems to be fine when the engine is cold. I can start it up and drive out of the neighbor hood and it is actually very steady at 70psi @ 2000rpm. I usualy do not notice the problem unless the engine is 180+ degrees. I havnt tried a hard accelleration when the engine is cold to see if it drops. The pickup is not welded and that may be the problem. I will have to drop the pan and check it out.

During my cruizing wednesday night I noticed some strange things with my oil pressure. I would fluctuate between 30-60psi as I was cruising at a steady 3500rpm. I have noticed this before but never really worried about it. do any of you have this problem? At lower rpms it was always around 50psi. Why would it drop during hard acceleration? and it only seems to do this strange stuff if the engine is already hot... What gives? Myron

I will post as much info on the test this weekend as I can. I will be driving the "beauty & the beast" float. Look for me!! BTW: I have the dart heads with the 2.05/1.60 valves 64cc chambers and 215 cc runners. I got that article in CHP and read just a small portion of it.... Myron

V8 VPR, I am using the stock 280 radiator in my 77 V8 car and have had pretty good success. I live in South Texas and it gets pretty hot and humid down here. I can cruize and race the car Friday/Saturday nights with no overheat problems. However on a hot day on the highway above 4000 rpm it will start to get hot. It will quickly cool back down when I cut the rpms back down to low 3's... My motor is a solid roller and I know this helps keep the temp down... Myron

Unfortunately I didnt get the time to swap carbs this weekend. I spent all morning Saturday on a tractor in the freezing gold rain trying to get the floats to the convention center. I was talking with a buddy of mine after we got soaked saturday and we were talking about the carmath formula. One thing that was mentioned was that alot of hotrodders say that you can get buy with a larger carb on a lighter/more areodynamic vehicle.. I makes sense to me because your engine can burn more fuel/air at a faster rate.. I wonder if their is a varible that can be added into the formula for less weight/frontal area.. to get a more accurate idea of carb size.. One thing I do remember is the off idle throttle response of the smaller carb was better than it is now. I never got the chance to try running the car on the big end with the 620 cfm carb... I will swap them this weekend just for grins though... For those of you in the south central U.S. look for me on the TV driving a tractor that is pulling a float in the Thanksgiving Parade in downtown Houston.. Myron

Those were way cool lights and paint!... I may have access to european headlights that are not exactly legal here here in the states. My dad has a few customers that do conversions on BMW's & MERC's as they come into the country.. I had a pair of high-beams in my old Opel Manta that would really light up the night! Myron

It all depends on the weather!... I have to move the floats for the Thanksgiving day parade on Saturday, so my time is very limited... I will keep everone posted as to how it goes... Myron

John, My carb is a mechanical unit. The only time I ran a 620cfm carb was when I had the 700r4 and the original dry rotted goodyear 70's. It spun like mad! but given the very low first gear and no traction, I just figured I would be much better off with a big nasty carb. The other problem is the Holley 620 cfm carb that I have requires a base plate adapter that makes it stick up another inch.. I am trying to put a stock hood back on the car. If we miss out on the rain this weekend I will defanately try it though.... Myron