MYRON

Dave, Welcome! Your best bet for a throttle linkage is to buy the universal cable from Lokar. You can get it out of summit/jegs for around 30 bucks. You will have to remove your gas pedal and drill a hole in the end... Myron

Mike, check JC Whitney. They have a full fiberglass front clip. It is under the Camaro body panels. I looked everywhere for it and then a buddy pointed out where the parts were listed..Camaro?????. I have seen it there as recently as a few months ago.....Hood was 399.00 plus 125 for shipping and the whole front end was 699.00........ Myron

I have been playing around with the carmath website and I am finding some things interesting. It has a formula for calculating the optimum cfm carb. Based on the information given on my car (355c.i.) running at near perfect conditions I should be using a little over 600cfm. May carb is actually 830cfm(750 body modified with 850 base plate)... My buddy that has a 383 with 602hp (very trick motor) is using the same carb... the carmath claims 820cfm @ 100% efficient with his 383c.i...... Am I way over carbed here? Myron

I discovered the hard way that there are some differences in the doors and door latches/locks between 76-77 models. I bought a 76 parts car because it had perfect doors and door panels only to discover AFTER I did all the clean up and prep work that they were not the same as my 77 model...DOH!! Myron

I would go with the 350. However I would not bore it .060 unless you have to.... The pistons to use may take some more consideration before you buy them. Are you going to turbo/supercharge/nos this engine? If you are then you should consider getting forged or other high quality pistons. For headers you are a little bit more limited on your options. You can get block huggers from alot of places that will work. You can also get some really nice full length units from Sanderson. I do not know the link to Sanderson but I know that some of the other Z-NUTZ here will be more than happy to help you out... Myron

There are some outfits that will completely sandblast your car. I was quoted around 400.00 down here in Texas. It was a "billy-bob" type backwoods shop. As long as the blasting material is very fine I dont think that there would be a problem going this route.... Myron

Yeah, I got one from a salvage yard. I just wanted to get back to more of a stock look. If it wasnt such an ordeal getting a cowl hood or any other fiberglass parts from Arizona Z car I would like to have a quality unit from them.. I hear JC Whitney has a really nice one but you have to get the right person on the phone to get it ordered. It doesnt help being that the fiberglass parts in JC are all under the Camaro parts... Myron

I found a perfect stock hood for my car this weekend for 75.00 bucks. Now I just have to get an air filter system made for the the carb. I am glad to see it go. It was just tooooo obvious as to the V8 lurking under the hood.... That big cowl was begining to be an eyesore as well.... Myron

Your welcome... I didnt notice the the size was that much bigger than the factory units but I did this swap 6 months ago.... I am using 16x8 weld draglites so I actually have a ton of room under there... I dont remember having to use any shims or anything like that..... I have no idea about the booster. Myron

Its an easy swap, At least it was on my 77.. Go to the local auto parts store and buy a set of rebuilt calipers from an 84 Toyota 4x4 pickup. They may ask what engine tell them the V6. You may also want to look in the box and make sure that they are the 4 piston units... remove the old ones, take a pair of sheet metal sheers and trim the dust shield so the new ones will fit... Make sure the when you install the new ones that the bleeder valve is on the top side of the calliper. If you do not you will never be able to bleed the brakes... And the best part: take your old ones back and get your core charge back. I think that the whole process cost me around a hundred bucks!.... Myron

I got a buddy that built his own experimental aircraft in his garage. Really cool deal, but that is a different story. He also has a 71 corvette Stingra with a 454 and side pipes... He used this avaition grade heat shield like stuff on the open pipes of the airplane to keep the heat in the right place. It is not a wrap, but more like a plyable sheet. It looks like layers of tin foil with matting in between.... He also used it on his vette and it works really well... It is very expensive but may be worth looking into.. since it is not a wrap it will not keep moisture or heat in, just keep it from spreading to places it is not supposed to be... Myron

I was at the chassis shop this weekend and looking at this pro street truck the guy was building. It had an IRS ford 9" with a huge adjustable coil overs on doth sides of the drive shafts totaling 4 shocks, it also had these huge vented/cross drilled rotors and willwood calipers. It had some 18x10 rims. The whole setup is in a 55 chevy truck that is being built for a "cannonball run" race. I didnt think that there was such a race, but there apparently is a cross country version... This truck was awesome all the suspension was chrome & billet aluminum. I asked him how much power he was going to put to the irs and he told me it is getting a VERY modified 502/502 crate motor.. One can only dream!

I was driving back to Conroe this saturday and got beside a 18 wheeled car carrier full of new Lexus's or Acura's. I am looking up at the bottom of what looks like their new hi-po sedan, I cant think of the model. I have seen on this forum people talking about swapping the diff out, Is it the SC400 or something else that I am thinking of??? Myron

I get the fumes when my collector gaskets start to leak. The collector is very close the large wireing harness that comes out of the body along the lower passenger side frame rail. That big rubber gasket is dry rotted and lets the fumes in... Myron

I had a similar problem where the guages would not work and it would not charge. I traced it down to a small relay just above the fuse box. It used the case of the relay box for a ground and the small wire band from the case to the relay was coroded... Myron

I have heard that 1/3 of your actual hp is recomended for a stock engine. I have never used the juice before so I cannot tell you what is best. This is just what I have heard from other juicers....

Why must you have a zero offset? I am running 16x8 weld draglites with a 4.5 offset.. It did take some time finding them though. I paid 167.00 each for them... they look great, but are not suitable for autoX. Myron

Thanks for the offer. I just robbed the one off my other car. All I have to do is paint it and I will be back in action. Myron

SCOTTIE, The assembled unit that you show is for the wheel side right? You are running the r200, with cv's out of a early 80's turbo (i think).. what does the diff side adapter look like? Is it possible to take the cv axle and the splinned output shaft out of the diff of the donor car and just install them into the project car, then weld the wheel side (with the spacer) onto flange? I dont know if i worded that right... Myron

I got lucky at the auto parts store this weekend and scored some "brute force" solid ujoints for a whole 12.99! I am begining to wonder if the problem that i am having is because of the original struts being pretty much worn out. The car is very soft in the rear end and may the more rapid angle change when i launch is causing the premature failure of the ujoints. What do you guys think: A supersoft rear suspension letting the car "squat" to rapidly and killing the ujoints?? Myron

I went to try to scrape all of the old layers of window tint off my back window. After trying everthing I decided to try a little heat. I got my heat gun out and started the slow process of heating the tint to get the glue to loosen up. I get almost the whole window done and I am on the last little bit of tint when BANG it sounded like a gun going off. My rear window shattered! It held its shape but an hour after it happened the window is still cracking. It sounds like a bowl of rice crispies!.... Is the award made out of gold, silver, or glass!.... Homer J Simpson

This is a great topic! I think i will jump in and voice my .02 worth... I am with the majority here on the choice of setup to use. I love to carve up the corners so a IRS would be better, I ALSO love blasting down a straight stretch and dragggg a happles mustang/TA/corvette down that stretch. My solution get 2 Z cars! one for each application!.. I made the decision to go with a solid axle on my 77 because I have already gone through 1 diff. and 2 ujoints. I am also going this route with my 77 because I am building alot of hp/tq and the engine sits up too high for the car to ever handle well. Yes I could buy new heads or have custom headers made and lower the motor and beef up the rear end. or just put a solid axle in it. I have a 78 that will be a nice IRS setup. That car will be more of a pro-touring type ride... One thing that we have failed to mention. Where is your fuel pump mounted on your hi-po Z car??? what happens when a ujoint goes and your axle starts pounding on your electric pump??? DOH!!! Myron

John, Your motor is fuel injected right? . What about the air flow meter> Dont those regulate fuel pressure/and how much fuel the injector lets through? I think they also regulate spark curve dont they. Maybe your main computer is dying? Myron

Scottie, I think that the NHRA rules will not let you have the filler inside the hatchback. I am not posative if this is 100% accurate but I do know that there are some rules in the book as to filler locations. Myron

Any Z car that has a straight body and very limited rust would be great. As for the engine/tranny any carburated 350 long block would be ok. Maybe something out of early- mid 80's era truck. You need to decide if you want an overdrive transmission also. TH350's are easier to set up than a 700r4 or a 200r4 but you dont get overdrive with the TH350. Your posibilities are endless. Let the scrounging commence!.....