MYRON

Scottie, Thanks will do.

I was wondering if you know the part # or MFG. of the solid ujoints that were on the axles I got from you. That way I can get some spares ordered or at least tell the driveshaft shop where to get them. Myron

Galando, Welcome aboard! I like the Austin Healy, My brother and father have 3 Sunbeam Tigers that are cantidates for engine swaps. I live in Conroe but work in Garland. I plan on buying a house up here pretty soon. Maybe we can hook up sometime and chew the fat. I have a 77 V8Z that is drivable but will be going into the chassis shop soon for a solid axle. You can see the car in "Members Cars" under Myrons ride. Let me know if you have any questions. I still have some leftover parts that you may be able to use as well. Myron [This message has been edited by MYRON (edited October 18, 2000).]

Yeah, Funny thing, My dad would always raz me about trying to keep my car temp way down and all the 160 degree this and that. He used to race cars for Bondini and a few others back in the day in Europe. He to this day tells me that the optimun operating temperature is 210 for most gasoline powered engines.. My car too is more responsive at 200 degrees, but with the stock radiator I am affraid to run it for long at 200.. Myron

I do not know what brand the ujoints are that are in the halfshafts. I do know that they are solid though. My tranny was professionaly built and the guy that did it builds them for those mud/swamp buggies. He said it would handle 600+hp in a 4x4 mud buggy. Myron

Well, I am planning on a 9" and I will leave it up to the chassis shop to decide best method for mounting it. Scottie, My transmision is a custom TH350 that shifts extremely hard and when I am racing it I shift at around 6500 rpm. I dont know how the drive angle would change, everthing is mounted in its stock location. The only thing that I have done is put a spring spreader on each side and I have a chain hooped over the diff. I decided to do this with my 77Z because the engine sits too high and it is currently more suited for straight line racing. I have a 78 that is going to get more of a pro-touring type configuration. It may be the one with a GN drivetrain!.. I may pull the axle and get the ujount replaced just so i can play with it until it goes to the chassis shop. I am hoping to drop it off within the next 3 weeks... Do you have a Part # for me? Myron BTW were those parts I emailed you any good?

Sam, You do have a great motor/Tranny combo for that z car. Make sure that you set the 700r4 up properly or you may have problems. I have a 77Z with a solid roller 475HP'ish motor and a TH350. The car is very manageable and predictable. Only problem us the u-joints dont last very long! I am in Conroe so if you would like to actually see a V8Z in person let me know. I would love to take you for a ride but it will going to the chassis shop soon for a solid axle. Myron

I just put in a set of axles with solid u-joints and I already have a bad one. I am just glad this one didnt grenade like the last one! I will be consulting the local race car chassis shop and getting a solid axle put in asap!! Myron

I have been jacking with the jetting over the last few weeks.. My car does pull 11 hvi. and i used the 8.5PV with the 74&82 jets.. Using the gtech it went 0-60 in 5.0 sec. I wanted the 4.5 back so i tried 80x4 and no power valve. I seems to hit 2nd better, but i didnt use the g-tech yet. I blew out the collector gasket and parked it. I am going to take it in and get my headers converted to full length set up.. Myron

I have the block hugger headers that are wrapped with dfi wrap..yes I have mild heat soak... It is also 100 degrees with about 80% humidity down here in South TX. I can cruize town for an hour at city speeds and the temp never goes above 200... The under hood temp stays way low with the headers wrapped. I also have that huge hole in the hood at the back of the cowl scoop... My headers are so close to my stock GM starter that I had to grind a groove in the flanges so they would not come in contact with the "nipple" on the back of the starter.. If it is cool outside, I usually do not have heat soak.... I have heard some people say that an engine thats timing is to advanced will drag on starting and the situation is aggrevated by a hot motor...

I have been using the DFI wrap and so far I swear by it. I do know of the adverse affects of using it. It sure does keep the under hood temps way down and you can actually run the engine for a while and grab the header tube without getting blistered. My headers have the thickest wall of any header that I have ever seen. One thing that should be considered when talking about the wrap is that some people may have a very lean setup and that would generate way more heat then you should putting through a set of headers. I can easily see that someone would wrap their headers and not be able to visually see the headers glowing from the lean condition thus causing premature failure. Myron

You have alot of things that you need to factor in before you get that torque/hp #.. Weight/traction are two that come to mind. I hear that every 100lbs is worth a 1/10th sec. in the qtr. mile... I have not run my car in the 1/4 but based on 0-60 and 8th mile times I am in the 11's My car is not the lightest Z on the planet because of the V8, heavy cowl hood, heavy corbeau targa rs seats,and roll bar... I am guessing it is around 2800 lbs and i weigh 180... My motor is aprox. 475hp 430lbs tq....

I got my headers from a company that builds custom street rods, the guy does awesome work and i have seen his cars in magazines. Anyway he got me the headers with the tubes reversed, (inside cylinders to outside collector) I may be ass-backwards on that, but the headers have a very thick walled tubes and the quality so far has been great. they were in a plain white box with no name anywhere... He charged me 130.00... He also has tons of catalogs with other brackets/headers/pullys anything that one could need to build a custom Z or street rod.... If you guys want the number I will get it and post it on this site.. Myron

BUBAFET, You did get a "screaming deal"!!! those brodix heads are awesome. My buddy has some that were massaged to flow 335cfm.. His 383 Camaro runs 6.50's in the 8th, It pulls the wheels off the ground without the juice... My cam is a solid roller .567 lift with 1.65 ratio rockers. I am running a 3.54 diff with a stock converter.. I have a big stall 10" B&M converter and I hated it for street driving so i too it out.. When you put that combo in your car, be carefull because that will be tons of power that the ujoints will have a hard time holding up to. Myron [This message has been edited by MYRON (edited September 19, 2000).]

I have the same pump, as do all of my drag racing buddies, they are usually bullet proof. I would try going to a larger diameter #6 or #8 AN lines. The problem may be because restriction of the small feed lines not allowing enough fuel to flow through the system. Fuel is also the coolant and lubricant for this pump... BTW: My buddy is running a 450hp buick with a 150 shot of the gas on 1 Holley Blue pump. The car runs low 11's...

Thats incredible!... Look at the wheelie-bared camaro that got the smak layed down on him. I bet that guy went home with his tail between his legs!.... Myron

Not to sound too much like an idiot here but, I bought parts that I got a screaming deals on.. Dart heads 2.05/1.60,215cc intake runners, ported and matched to a brodix hv1 pro bracket intake. how does 800.00 bones for the set sound NEW IN BOX!! the heads also had 1.550 springs with 200lb seat pressure. I got a Crower solid roller cam and lifter set .567 lift 284 dur.. On special from Summit. A custom hp4150 carb 830cfm.. for 625.00..... I did no research on what to buy other than what I could find in my pocket... LET ME TELL YOU, THIS COMBO WORKS!!!!! The only cars that have outran me had slicks,9" rear ends with 4 links, ladder bars and alot of cubic inches.

Paradox, If my memory serves me correct there is only about a 120lb difference in a L6 and an all cast iron V8. I have a 77 280 and to offset the weight I used an aluminum intake,headers,water pump. I also removed the factory bumpers and the bumper mounts. I am sure that I got back at least 100 lbs of that. Plus If you go with a light weight tire and wheel combo you can save more weight. I also removed the Factory A/C components and saved even more weight. I do not know what the car weighs right now but i will weigh it soon.. Myron

I think the metering blocks on the Holley HP4150 are the same. The bore is the same on all the barrells. I have never tried reversing them but i am pretty sure that they are the same. Myron

Thanks, It is one with an "outie"... I cant wait to really hammer on it. I will really have to learn how to drive the car now. There is a really cool "s" curve near my house that i was humming around after i got it tuned, I was in 2nd gear and layed into it as i was coming around the curve and it broke them loose and tried to come around on me.. Myron

Well, I think I finally got it tuned!.. After all the jacking with it I decided to take it off and go through it.. I changed the power valve to one that comes into play at 8.5 vaccume. I jetted it at 74 & 82 and re-adjusted the squirter on the primary side. It seems that my problems were on the adjustment of the squirter. The lock nut and spring that keep the slack out of the accelerator pump arm were way out of adjustment not allowing enough fuel to be sucked back into the pump, causing a huge lack of fuel on the "squirt". I also changed the springs in the disty. It is running much better than in did on my 0-60 4.5 sec run, but i am affraid to hammer on it right now. I will be moving soon plus my wife is due in 3 weeks and the last thing i want is to move with a dead car! Thanks for all the advice Myron

Glad to hear that yours is running strong... I am pulling my hair out trying to get mine tuned! What color are your cams that actuate your squirters?

Mike, you say the power valve did the trick.. By blocking it off? or changing to a different one?... I still cant get rid of my hesitation when you goose it. You can goose it only opening the primarys nad it fall flat on its face, but when you get into the secondaries it really come to life. I tried changing the springs on the advance and it didnt help(MSD Pro Billet HEI). I am now being told to make the disty an "non advance" unit and just lock it down at 35-36 degrees. I have not changed the cams that actuate the squirters yet because the local auto parts house doesnt carry them.. I just read an article in CHP about a 377&383 build up and they are using very similar parts as we are and they have it jetted at 78-86 but no mention on the Power valve.. both the engins are 450 HP on the dyno... Stumped

Yeah, I am not that hip on spending a fortune to get a fwd econobox to run 12's.... Some of the guys at my work are into the stickers and ground effects with a huge mufflers... None of them have seen my "IMPORT" but i have promised to race all of them as soon as i get moved up here. I am living in an extended stay hotel until my house is sold. Maybe you can tell the engine builder to put a bug (and a web address) in Erics ear. Myron

Hey guys, Check out this link www.desi-shop.com... They have some really cool guages and other "heads up" displays.. Myron Make that www.defi-shop.com............. [This message has been edited by MYRON (edited September 01, 2000).]