MYRON

The LS1 mounts should be the same as the LT1. As mentioned in a post about the Lt1 fuel injection Mark mentioned that he used the JTR mounts and had to make no mods... From what I know about the LT1 and the LS1 they sould bolt up the same

I saw a link to a guys Lt1 conversion earlier and it made mention of JTR having motor mounts for the LT1 can anyone confirm this that maybe has the manual.. Myron

I just put an new LT1 in my trans am this weekend... Here is the deal... I bought a complete lt1 with wiring harness and computer and all the accessories. I got it delivered for 2100.00... with everthing still attached to the motor you will have to connect your large power wires to the block and starter.. then mount the stock GM computer. from that computer you have 4 plugs that go into the car and plug in under the dash... If you get a schematic you should be able to hook those up easily. 1 is for your diagnostics plug 1 is for your guages 1 is for your ignition/starter the last is a very small 2 wire plug and looks like it plugs into the fan motor... the bad news about my deal this weekend is that after i did all this my budy was at the swap meet and found 2 complete LT1's with everthing for 800.00 each... Myron

I would suggest not using that converter. I had a B&M 10" 2700 stall that would flash at 4500rpm..."HATED IT"!.. I had traction problems and it was just obnoxious to drive at anything less than 4500 rpm. I put a stock unit back in the car and it is so much nicer to drive..

Thought I might jump in here. I have seen only one reference to the other specs of the "package". I know that the weight and the frontal area have a great deal to do with what carb works best.. Example: Lingenfelter built 498" 604 hp BBC in a 92 chevy fleetside.. At the track with a 850CFM holley hp4150 carb.. truck runs 7.80's very consistantly... Just for grins we swapped a spare 750CFM hp4150 in place, almost the same carb with minor differences in jetting... truck ran 7.62,7.58,7.54 in a row.. getting a little faster as the driver got a handle on the wheelspin... This was in a full interiored everday truck!.

most stock converters from passenger cars using th350's are around 12-1300 rpm stall. I took the high performance converter out of my car because it was obnoxious to drive on the street because it would flash @ 4500 rpm. The stock unit in my car now is around 1200rpm and it launches pretty good. best 0-60 time so far was 4.51 sec and 1/4 mile at 117mph. I personally think that with a light weight car like the z and a low stall converter you are much better off as far as traction goes... With your converter locking at a low rpm before the engine torque is strong you get the car moving before all the power hits. On good concrete from a dead stop my care does not spin when you deck it. However it will spin a little when the engine hits 3500 rpm and then when you hit second gear. Myron

will do

I have been trouble getting my carb tuned. I tried everthing that I new to get it running smooth without being too lean or fat. I had my brother take the car to the guy who built the carb. Long story short is that I didnt know crap about tuning a holley hp4150!... This guy worked on it for 2 hours and re-did everthing. I cannot believe how much more power it is generating! The rpms go by so fast in every gear now and I dont get choked by fumes when I let off the gas. For any of you guys still tinkering with a holley carb, I strongly suggest taking it to a pro! I am so happy with the motor I'm not going to chane a thing! I just have to figure where to get some traction now! Myron

that all depends on how much you spray it. You can get NOS in almost any hp jets Myron

Darius, Glad to hear they took care of you when rebuilding the procharger.. Lets hope for a dry day and good video! Myron

For daily driving and hiway miles the th350 is probably NOT your best choice.. I have a 3:54 diff and the 1:1 final drive tranny. The car tachs around 3300 at 75MPH. My 97 TransAm tachs around 2200 at 85Mph Get you a good overdrive from somewhere if you want to cruiz around alot.... Myron

My friends motor is for racing, It is in a 70 Z28 with a fiberglass front end/ pglide/transbrake/back halved. It does have a full interior and glass windows though. The motor has a solid cam and heavily ported & modified brodix track 1 heads. It IS a pump gas motor though. I think he is runnig around a 10.2CR.... I think it was built by "The Wop Shop" in Houston

So why are the HP's so low for such a large cube engine? Not enough valve diameter to get air and fuel in?... I have a buddy with a 383 that dynoed 602HP and 545lbtq the realy cool thing is that the motor dynoed over 500lbtq from 3000 rpm on up... Myron

Kevin, My cam is a solid roller Crower with .554 lift on intake and .567 on exhaust with 1.65 rockers on the intake that bring the lift up to close to .590.. I cant remember the other specs off the top of my head... I have a complete breakdown list of everthing that I have done to my car along with the cost if you would like to see it I can email it to you direct... Just let me know... BTW: I am in Conroe TX, Where is the town that you are from? I have never heard of it. Myron

Kevin, My car is 450+ hp and around 420lbtq I have a th350 automatic r200diff 3:54 gear open unit 16x8 rims with 205-50ZR yokohamas I have minimal wheelspin due to the fact that my car doesnt build power until 3000 rpm and the torgue converter is a stock unit.. you can see the car in featured rides Best times so far 60ft 1.79 0-60 4.51 sec 1/4 mile @ 117 MPH

The Opel GT!! I was going to buy one the other day for 500.00 but I have to many projects in the works! I used to drive an Opel Manta in high school and I had a blast in that car!... they are very light and handle quit well. The headlights roll over and are actuated with a large handle inside the car. The stock 4 cyl motor sits way back in the car and it would take alot of mods to put in a V motor.. I was thinking hard about doing a swap in one.. Myron

I have a few friends that are running the turbo supras of different years. I was at the track one day and my buddy with a 57 chevy with a lingenfelter 498" bbc that would pull the wheels off the ground got outran by a very stock looking older bodied supra. My buddy ran 6.60's that pass 1/8th mile. I went to talk to the guy in the supra he told me that the rear end was stock and the the motor just had turbo, exhaust, and computer mods. It had a full interior and the only thing that I could see was slicks and some polished intake tubes and a strut tower brace.... I was very impressed!

Take a look at my car in Members rides of featured cars. There should be a pic of the dash. I mounted 3 lights in the dash under the factory water/oil/fuel guages. the one in the middle is the high beam indicator. I looks pretty good and it is easy to do and best of all it will only cost you a few bucks! Myron

ZFAN, Myron here. If your running 400+ hp you may want to run 1/2 inch line and #8 an fittings from the tank all the way to the regulator. Then branch off with #6 an lines to the carb.. As for your hesitation, I had the exact same "stumble" right when you hit the gas. I have the MSD pro billet HEI distributor and that unit has both vaccume and mechanical advance. I had the timing set using both advances and when I disconnected the vaccume advance the problem went away. I am assuming the the timing was swinging way too advanced off idle causing the hesitation... You can also try different accelerator pump "cams". they are color coded and the cam lobe changes the volume of fuel and rpm (throttle position) that you get the "squirt"... Myron

I think I know what your problem may be and there are some very old post from me about it. In short, there is a large steel shaft about the size of your thumb that the planetary gears ride on. there is also a very small roll pin that holds this shaft in place. under a very hard load that little roll pin will sheer thus allowing the larger thumb size shaft to walk back and fourth. When this happens the large shaft will slide into the pinion gear and get chewed up pretty bad. I broke mine at the track and when it did it made a pretty bad mess of the diff..... Myron

Myrons car is still for sale... Look in Featured Cars on this forum..... Myron

I dont think that GM will abandon the sbc for some time. They did decrease the displacement down to 5.3 liters though. In Texes there are more trucks and suvs than cars on the road. The market is huge for larger vehicles. I cant imagine GM trying to power a FULL size SUV or Z-71 truck with a V6. There is just not enough torgue. Yes you can turbo/supercharge a 6 to do the job but you then decrease reliability and increase cost.. So who is going to do the researce about what is going to power the 2003 Z car??

If they are bragging about an L6 bottom end being able to go 200,000 miles why did the L6 go out of production after about a 15 year run rate? The small block chevy has been in production for what 40 years or more? and is still going strong. Same with a big block chevy. Hell the latest BBC(454) outperforms the ford hi-tech triton V-10 hands down in every test.. I have had more problems with the L6 than any other motor that I have owned.. The L6 was a great performer in the z car, 170 hp was pretty good in the late 70's on an emmision controlled vehicle. I am just saying that if it(L6) was the greatest thing since sliced bread it would still be in production.. And what about the rumors about the 2003 Z car?? I know that it is not going to have an inline 6..... I dont discriminate against the L6, I like all Z cars no matter what powers them. I just get aggrevated when someone "disses" a low tech V8.. I got 3 words for them "JUST BRING IT"...

Does the noise change as you push in the clutch when it is in neutral? If the noise does not change it may be a layshaft bearing. Myron

Glad to hear you got it going. I used a 17" electric fan from autozone and it works great. They are about 89.00 and then you can buy a thermostat controlled switch to activate it... It cools my car fine with a stock radiator. Myron