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Jboogsthethug

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Everything posted by Jboogsthethug

  1. Jboogsthethug
    Man it's turning out awesome! I'm jealous of all that CF! also, great job turning those axles, good as new!
  2. Jboogsthethug
    Man I'm happy to finally see some pics of someone actually going through this process, thanks for the great documentation! It all looks great! Are you going to swap the fins on the shallow pan to be the opposite direction? Or did you already do that?
  3. Jboogsthethug
    It doesn't even look like you flipped it, awesome job! I'm impressed for sure! Also, where did you get that huge aluminum chunk?
  4. Jboogsthethug
    this all looks great man! Great job on the technicalities of getting your coils to work! I'm looking forward to watching you make more progress!
  5. Jboogsthethug
    Post up pics when you get it! I'd love to see what it looks like! I restored mine and I'm pretty happy with the results but I'm not even sure I'll use it moving forward ha, we'll see! man I am so jealous! I can't wait to start going through my suspension pieces! T3 makes some superb stuff, share some pics of yours when you get a chance!
  6. Jboogsthethug
    Hey All, I'm hoping to pick up a stock RB25 driveshaft, anybody out there with one lying around? Message me, thanks.
  7. Jboogsthethug
    Interesting! I figured out a big part of my problem was just leveling out the engine/tranny. After I got it more level it goes farther back thankfully! I believe I have the RB25DET, I need to pull out the pics or the tranny but from memory that matches up with the pics. Very helpful info!
  8. Jboogsthethug
    Also, I talked to @stony about his old RB swap via FB and he shared this with me : "I have to see a picture of the pan again but I believe the bigger part of the sump needs to be level and then the shallow part of the pan has a tilt to it. I've actually seen people mount the RB straight up and down with no issues I believe they put a drain in the back of the head though" I thought that was interesting and good info. Also, @winstonusmc, I measured the pan based off what stony said and it was 11 degrees, you were pretty spot on!
  9. Jboogsthethug
    If anyone is reading this later, I also verified the angled engine question in this thread: You can see that two of the users in that thread posted pictures of their under engines that verify the angle towards the driver's side. Thanks again everybody!
  10. Jboogsthethug
    That sucks, I agree with LanceVance, not a total loss yet but that still is lame
  11. Jboogsthethug
    I can imagine the digital gauges that have popped up in recent years must be a lot better/easier to use than the old tools! Thanks for the tip, i'll look into getting one
  12. Jboogsthethug
    Awesome, this is great info thank you!
  13. Jboogsthethug
    Here are a couple really good articles covering driveline alignment and pinion offset, for anyone who sees this in the future: http://www.rustynutscarclub.com/driveline.htm Note: This article mostly applies to build out the rear end but has some good info as well for aligning driveshafts. https://www.dragzine.com/tech-stories/pinion-offset-guide-and-how-to-with-chassis-engineering/ Even more on pinion angles: http://www.wolferacecraft.com/pinionangle.aspx https://www.hotrod.com/articles/91758/ https://www.quickperformance.com/Pinion-Angle-Measurement_ep_45.html https://www.hotrodhotline.com/setting-pinion-angle http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/transmission/1502-how-to-use-tremec-driveline-angle-finder-app/
  14. Jboogsthethug
    Good points, I'll make sure and get that correct first. Meaning that the engine pinion or whatever is angled to point directly at the rear diff, and vice versa? ok perfect, just ot make sure I am understanding, your RB oil pan isn;t level at the flange, but the driver side is lower than the passenger side? and 2.5 degrees meaning your transmission is lower than the engine, correct? Thanks for the help, I appreciate it!
  15. Jboogsthethug
    This looks awesome! I am jealous at how fast your car is coming to fruition! Also, digging how you threw the bash bar on behind the G Nose, spiffy!
  16. Jboogsthethug
    Hey all, quick question that I'm having trouble finding the answer to. I'm about to fab up the engine mounts for my RB25 and I've read online somewhere sometime ago that I needed to level out the engine using the flat flange on the bottom for the oil pan. That makes sense to me, but when I try to twist the engine to be flat it pushed my transmission shifter into the passenger's side of the trans tunnel. is it better to go off of the transmission shifter and get the exactly flat or to go off of the bottom of the oil flange? Also, I know that the oil pan has a bit of an angle on it, around 3 inches deeper on one side. Is this to flatten out the bottom and the engine actually should be angled a bit? I'm hoping somebody may be able to walk out and snap a few quick photos of their setup and describe it a bit. Thanks in advance!
  17. Jboogsthethug
    Great job on the meticulous build! just read through the whole thing, can't wait to see it done mate!
  18. Jboogsthethug
    Man I don't know how I've missed this thread all these years! this is awesome, you are a talented fabricator, can't wait to see the finished project!
  19. Jboogsthethug
    Yes, sorry for the thread jack Omar! I'll allow you to resume your own postings.
  20. Jboogsthethug
    yeah makes sense, are those the bad dag rails or just some pieces you picked up from a metal depot? I have 1" x 2" bars I'm going to lay down instead of flat bars, so then I'm an inch off the floor. I think that will work better for my situation, as they will still be tied into the trans tunnel and the rocker for additional support.
  21. Jboogsthethug
    oh so you used just a flat piece of metal just as reinforcement, thats a pretty good idea! Have you had any problems with the bolts getting caught on things as you're driving? Thanks for the input on his setup, Getting your seats to fit just right is like a jigsaw puzzle ha. And my brother in law also is a music teacher, he really likes it! He actually just moved to Abu Dhabi to teach music at a school there, about 45 minutes from Dubai. I think his schedule is a lot less rigorous out of the states but last year here in Utah he was going non stop with the after school commitments. You music teachers go hard! I just barely figured out what your thread name meant and remembered you were a teacher. Man I shouldn;t be working on my car if it took me this long to figure that out haha
  22. Jboogsthethug
    Also, Omar, are you a music teacher?
  23. Jboogsthethug
    Do you happen to have any pictures of the setup you created? I'm leaning towards something like that probably. and interesting. I've never been to an event so I'm a bit on the outs as far as knowing how it goes in real life rather than on the paper. Thanks for the input!
  24. Jboogsthethug
    I realized I read the SCCA's rules incorrectly. In the SCCA's Appendix C.A.2: In the modified category specials you need it to be 2" above your helmet with something there to make sure your head doesn't go back behind the bar in a rollover, but in general application they basically want to make sure the bar is as close to the body as possible so nothing (arms, fingers, etc.) can get stuck between the bar and cage. That does make it easier ha. It clarifies this further in Appendix C.I: Making it clear that you are able to have the bar low enough to contact your helmet, but if it is it needs the foam. Sorry for the earlier misinformation about needing 2" between the head and roll cage.
  25. Jboogsthethug
    Looking good! When you talk about the hole with the rubber grommet, are you talking about the hole on the top of the fender where the red meets the metal that you've welded in? If so, that was for an antenna, but I deleted that as well on mine. Either way killer job on that rear quarter! That is dang seamless! Also, did you buy the car from a guy who has a bunch of Zs or what? I noticed the other cars in the photo are also Zs.
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