Savage42

Yep, got them ready, in hand and ready to ship. Details are in the thread in the vendor's forum. Here you go! http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=154526

Got them all done up in CAD and should have them next week. The machine shop is backed up a little bit. Stay tuned.

Yep, that's the one we are installing. Will give feedback when it's done.

We are installing one of the under dash, power assist steering units in Clint's 280Z down at the shop. We are doing a step by step (with pics) on how to install it. It is variable assist and may be the answer. Should know shortly.

I have to measure and see what condensor will fit easily up front, with both fittings on the driver's side, so I can cleanly run the hoses along the frame rail and have them tucked out of the way. It'll be a newer model, for sure.

Hot air to the carb will create less power and possibly leaner mixture, but typically not so much for overheating. You definitely need a more efficient cooling system (ie. radiator & fan setup) to keep things cool. With an adequate radiator and air going through it, even the cars with an A/C condensor up front don't have overheating issues. Of course, a lean mixture an too much ignition advance will also cause the car to run hot.

Dustin does both R12 & R134a. He's helping me build my A/C setup and the only stock part I'm using the Evap core setup. Everything else will be custom, including lines, condensor, drier, etc. He is the man and his shop rules. Probably why all 7 techs and 11 racks are full most of the time. He's not afraid of ANY custom work. He'll also stand behind his 12 month warranty! He also has one of the lowest shop rates in town, some $20/hr less than the dealerships and specialty shops, too.

I've got a few of them, let me see which ones. I was lucky enough to the hit the local pick-a-part and the '78 280Z that has been there for 3 years still had them all in there! Stay tuned.

Thanks! Going for the clean, OEM look without too much "Hot Rod".

I'm assuming you are referring to a 280Z setup? There are 3 brackets along the back taillight panel, two of which you can't see in the pic. Here's the pic you are probably looking for:

OK, I'll play!

John, if you can get down to Eugene, Dustin will be more than happy to do your A/C in either R-12 or convert to R134 for half the price of those other guys. He has no problem doing custom work, as he's currently putting a supercharger on the VG powered 510 at the shop. Just an option. His number is 541-688-9321

Thanks! I'm getting close to having to do the shifter linkage.

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That is a great update and cool pic showing the wear on the clutches, which is very minimal to not even take off all the blued surface. As for handling and stuff, I can see where you are coming from. There are other factors like tires (size and compound), suspension setup (camber, bars & springs, etc) and what you are using the car for will have a big impact on how tight the diff should/can be. I ran 40 lbs in my LSD in my 510 and worked great on the street, but when I had slicks on at the hillclimb, I'd get severe inside tire spin on the corners. So, big grip and hard corners will (or could) make it feel like an open diff, but that's the only time I had an issue. Thanks for the write up!

OK, do any of you happen to have a couple of Zs (one early and one later) to compare the differences between the two pivots brackets and the relationship between that bracket and the bolt on bracket that the linkage rod to the carbs/EFI goes to? Did they do it for leverage? Did they move the mounting holes for the bracket higher to match the taller setup on the early 240s? If the holes are higher on the early car, then the bracket I'm making may work on all S30s. Anyone who can help with that info would be appreciated. Thanks!

Got you on the list for them. Will most likely be next week, but I'll let you know when they are ready and send payment info. Stay tuned.

I bought the Lockar cable from Jegs, but I cut 20 inches out of the 48" cable ($61.99), so you can save $12 by going with the 36" version ($49.99). It has the clevis on one end and then the cylinder end for the throttle body that is slipped on the cable and fastened down with the allen wrench. http://www.jegs.com/i/Lokar/625/TC-1000TPV/10002/-1

Thanks for the info. I'll put you down for one. The answer would be that the tall pivot bracket on the early 240s could be drilled at the spot welds and replaced with the later (shorter) pivot bracket. This custom throttle cable bracket will work on the late '72-78 Z cars with the shorter setup. Here's a visual showing the differences. The later (shorter) pivot. The early (tall) pivot. Dave (qwik240, shown in pic above) used a choke cable bracket. The only one I could find for sale are ones like this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-45-229/ They sell this generic, mass production unit for $17 and $5 for shipping ($23 total). My bracket will sell for $25, which includes shipping. I'll make up half a dozen, so let me know if you want one. I'll post an actual thread on these in the Vendors section.

Hey guys! I'm going to have a half dozen or so brackets made up in stainless, if you are interested. I know it works on the later S30s (ones with the pivot bracket that looks like the one in the pic), but the early 240s have a taller pivot and different swivel bracket. Anyone know for sure when they switched the setup? Maybe just a Series 1 thing?

It really is too bad that I have to put these one at all, but could be worse. A black or red (to match plug wires) set shouldn't look too bad. Thanks for the compliment and glad I didn't hurt your feelings!

Boy, that aren't very pretty, but better than the tape idea. Maybe not too bad in black. Guess I'll have to get a set. Thanks for the info.

The 280Z-06 is painted in Chevy Corvette Quicksilver

Free to sign up and they are having the contest for this stuff. They also were giving away a free game to the first 1000 people to register. Stay tuned for more stuff to come!