Savage42

Could be pump or the filter has some fine dirt in there and is restricting flow. Been there, done that.

Perfect! Thanks!

Thanks. Doesn't seem too easy to find 12" lines that you can just buy to put on there. Anyone have a line or suggestion on where to buy a pair of rear stainless hoses in that length?

I say "seal the cover, put in new oil and call it good". We work on a ton of Z32s at the shop and haven't had a diff failure. (that I know of)

I haven't put all the interior in, but here is a shot of the stock door panel and the side panels for the quarter window & behind doors. Also need to install the power window setup.

Funny you should say that, as I just painted every interior panel with that very same stuff! It all looks brand new! Pics to follow! It's great stuff!

At the shop (the local Z specialists, as the Nissan dealership sends all of the Z cars (aside from the 350Z) to us), we have more ignition related problems that involve Bosch plugs and wires. While I agree that they do make some great OEM parts for German cars, some of there other stuff is found to be substandard. There is no denying that Bosch does mass produce a lot of stuff and they are less expensive, but you often get what you pay for. Also, who would chose to put German stuff in their Japanese car?

Yep, Platinums are good (as long as they aren't Bosch!) and Iridiums are better, either in NGK or Denso. Typically the Denso plugs are 50% more in cost, so go with NGK. We never put Bosch stuff on any of the cars at the shop due to such high failure rate of parts. Our Techs won't even put the stuff on. Just our experience.

Yep, high side goes out. I installed mine w/o many problems. I sprayed WD40 on the seals when I installed the inner seal and some on the outer. Makes it easy to move and will clean up & dry easily.

I'm doing a custom lines to the condenser & drier, so it can be mounted anywhere, which will be infront of the radiator core support. I'm also running the lines low along the frame rails, so it's fairly hidden. More work, but should look good.

I'm using the stock Evap core, but will be doing a custom condensor, drier and lines. There is no problem converting any R12 system to R134a as long as the system is evacuated and a new drier is put on. We do those conversions all the time at the shop. Hope that helps.

I haven't got to the point of adding the hoses, but the compressor is mounted. It's a nice setup.

Hey guys! When I got my calipers, rotors, etc, they sent me the stainless braided lines for front & rear, which are a pair of 16" lines with fittings for both ends. They should work fine for the front, but the rear lines definitely need to be shorter. What is the general idea on length of rear lines with Wilwoods or other similar calipers. Looks like I'll have a set to sell. Thanks! Any pics of the rears with this type of setup would be appreciated.

Here's my buddy Dustin's (BURRL) 240Z with 18's.

Yep, definitely sounds like a pump issue. Pumps typically drop off and have issues when they get warm.

No problem! I'm sure the 17s would fit, as I have 16s with the 12.2" rotors and have plenty of room. I'm sure you'll get it sorted. Cant' wait to see how your car looks when it's done. Keep on it!

Actually, not all is lost. Go with poly! As for the sleeve issue, I went to put new bushings in my R200 mustache bar (replacing the red poly bushings in it) and found there was no sleeve in it, either. I went down and bought a few inches of tubing from the muffler shop, cut it to length and then cut it long ways (on one side) and made it a perfect fit. Hope that helps.

It would be nice to have a somewhat definitive list on what size wheels/offset work on flared & non-flared Zs (S30s in particular) with tire sizes. I'm assuming you have flares or are you trying to stuff these wheels under stock sheet metal? I know the 18s kill ride quality compared to smaller wheels. The roads aren't too bad here in Oregon, but having some sidewall sure keeps the ride from being brutal. It's interesting whenever I look at different brake setups & options, that the Billet 6 piston calipers are marketed as an upgrade over the the Forged 4 piston Superlites. I spent considerable time talking with the guys at Wilwood about that kind of stuff, as I was also under the impression that "bigger or more is better" and was planning on going with the 6 piston units. Anyway, I told them that I was building a street/track car and it would see some hard use and I wanted maximum braking performance. They recommended and sold me the Forged Superlite (4 piston) front & rear (different piston sizes f&R), telling me that the billet 6 piston actually have more flex than the forged unit and the billet calipers do not offer any performance advantage over the forged units. I like having matching calipers and found their info helpful. They also told me that slotted rotors are way to go and stay away from cross drilled, as they are only sold and made because people like the way they look. They'd prefer not to drill them, as all those holes do decrease maximum performance by cutting down on surface area. There is no doubt that when it comes to rotor size, there are benefits to bigger in regards to fade resistance. Now, it's true that 95% of the guys out there will not work their brakes that hard and need that extra little bit, but I always maximize my vehicles' performance when I'm on the track....driving 10/10ths. Just thought I'd pass on that little tidbit from the guys at Wilwood that make these brake components. It's great that we have options and everyone has a different idea of how they want it to look, but this info is for those who are more extreme track drivers.

Huh? The answer is the R/T mount that a large amount of people are now running which incorporates the top mounted, poly mount. There have been imporovements to this 5 year old thread!

Let's just say that you are one of the more rare and lucky to find one of those these days. They used to show up on ebay quite often....not so much anymore and typically $500+. The same can be said for the R160 LSD Subaru diffs. I bought one for $150 in the early '90s from an '88 XT turbo. Now, those same diffs are rare, too and go for $300-400 or more. Craiglist is a crap shoot, as you hope to find one for cheap and then hope it's close or the seller will even ship it. If you plan on waiting for an R200 LSD to pop up for cheap, you may be waiting for a long time. The Z32 swap is something that can be done NOW and those diff & axles are almost free around here. So, just depends on how anxious you are to find an LSD. You can get an open diff for cheap and then do the "one tire fire" deal until it drives you nuts!