Savage42

Cleaning SUs is a piece of cake. I've never thought of cleaning via the Seafoam method. It's easy enough to unscrew the dome, spray the domes, pistons, etc. clean with some carb cleaner and spray down the throttle bodies. That should clean everything but the bowls, which the Seafoam will clean, if there is anything there to clean. Most of the time, it's just carbon/sludge buildup that is easily clean. Put them back together and call it good.

I refuse to participate in that whole thing! I just go out and make more money! I'd never drive a POS due to the fact that my fuel bill has gone up $100-200 a month. Speaking of the mileage mobiles, it still has to do with driving style, so there's no hope for some of you. Here's proof! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wq9ilgw1plc

Well, you are limited as to options. The TH350 is going to kill you on the hwy unless you run a 3.36 or similar rear ratio. For obvious reasons, a built 700R4 is the ideal transmission. If you are going to put down that kind of power, an R200 or larger is what you need...alas, LSDs are rare or $1k for a good carrier. I'd say your best bet is to go with Ross' R230 Z32 diff/axle conversion. Just my 2 cents. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=132062

Well, you either have an excessive amount of brake pressure on one side vs the other or an alignment change is happening. If the T/C rod is in tact, how are the bushings? Do you have poly, heim, ball & socket or new rubber there? It could be a control arm bushing, as well. If one caliper is freezing up and not sliding like it should, you could have less pressure there than the other, causing the issue.

135 mph in my VG30ET powered 510. 155 mph (speed limited) in my 2000 BMW 540i 6 speed. 160 mph (limited due to 4.10 rear gears & 4 speed) in 1970 Plymouth AAR Cuda Factory Trans-Am racer. Went 185 mph down the back straight at Daytona (running the road course config) in a '73 Dodge Challenger Petty kit car drove by a young rookie named Dale Earnhardt and driven by Marty Robbins & Pete Hamilton. Stock body, but tube frame with sheet metal floor. You could buy these turn-key cars from Chrysler back in the day.

2000 BMW 540i M-Sport 4.4 liter V8 (300HP) & 6 speed Titanium silver w/ black leather & aluminum interior E59 M5 Differential (3.15 LSD), axles & sway bars Eibach springs & Bilstein shocks. 20/25 mpg city/hwy Now has 149k miles & going strong!

Yep, I've added a quart of ATF before changes for quite some time. Typically, at 5k miles between oil changes, the car is about a quart low, anyway. I run it for a couple hundred miles and seems to work very well and is pretty inexpensive.

I installed mine the same way as in the picture, but since I'm not at stock height, I cut mine in half for suspension travel. It really shouldn't make a difference on how it's installed, as it'll sit at the top end of the strut and will cushion the same way no matter facing up or down.

There are really only a couple ways to fix the problem. You either need to raise the pivot points upward (which is very limited due to clearance issues with the floor pan) or design a new arm/crossmember where the arms are more of a full trailing arm design. I ran 280ZX rear arms on my 510 w/ VG30 turbo and we modified the crossmember, which raised the mounting points upwards 1" and also allowed for camber and toe changes. This also allowed me to run poly bushings without getting bind when those changes are made, as the mounts swivel. Many 510s have this crossmember, as my buddy made/sold them. Here's my setup: Here's what my fried did to his 510, which basically had no trunk area, but as least will give you an idea of what can be done. Very little camber/toe changes with this setup!

You can pop off the balls with a screwdriver and then put a little grease in the end and pop it back on. Not a big deal. Good luck.

Big difference! The 240-280Z has a chapman strut with rear A arm, where the 280ZX went with the semi trailing arm like that of the early 510s. The ZX/510 rear suspension works alright, but is inferior to the early Z setup, due to the fact that the semi trailing arm setup has huge amounts of squat under acceleration which results in camber & toe changes. The most likely reason is that the semi trailing arm setup allows for a lower floor, hence, more cabin space. It's all about packaging, not about being better.

I think that most think there is a huge gain in braking power by adding the rear disc brakes. Since 80% of your braking is up front, the biggest benefit I've found from adding the rear discs is that they are much more fade resistant when running hard on track days, since the stock drums expand and pedal travel gets long & soft with stock rear brakes. So, rear pad size has very little to do with anything, as long as they have enough bite to keep proper brake bias. The best thing with the rear discs is a very solid, consistent pedal under the hardest conditions. Most street driven cars will rarely be run hard enough to really need the conversion, but they do look better than drums! Just my 2 cents.

I'd lube up all the ball socket joints with some grease. You can disconnect the rods at different places and see how things work at full throttle, starting at the throttle body and working back. Check to see if the pedal itself might be hanging up at the pivot. Should be able to find the problem.

No more LSDs for the R180 or R200 from them for the last year or so. They are the same guys as www. precisiongear.com No cheap options, other than the possible wrecking yard diff still hidden away.