Savage42

There is an amazing paint you can use that works incredibly well on ABS plastic (with the sand free prep spray that opens the pores and almost melts the paint to the painted surface) and for vinyl, leather, etc. It's made by SEM and can be bought at many upholstery shops. It's about $13 a can, but once it's on, it's nearly impossible to get off! My buddy painted the green ABS plastic in his '70s GMC motorhome and the blue vinyl in his 510 and we used a scribe to try and scrape through the paint on both things and couldn't get through it to see the original color. I'm doing all my interior panels, including door panels in the Landeau black, which is between gloss and satin black. Hope that helps.

I don't have any issues getting them locally. Let me know if you need it and you just pay for the part and shipping to you. No big deal.

Any local parts house that deals with Dorman products (OE Solutions) can get them for you. http://www.dormanproducts.com #800-120 - 5/16" quick connect #800-121 - 3/8" quick connect #800-154 - 5/16" x 12" steel fuel line I hope that helps.

I would say you do, as I remember when I got my setup from him some 3 years ago, he just started to work on the setup that will work with standard offset wheels. My rear hats are only 3/4" from the mounting surface for the wheel to the mounting surface of the rotor to the hat. Your hats should be thicker.

I have the original hats, but I do run the adapters and wheels with negative offset. He made hats and mounts for the rear the just move the caliper and rotor inward, which does not affect wheel offset at all. A thin spacer should give you that little bit of clearance, if you have the space between the tire & fender lip.

Lots of variables, but numbers I've seen range from 310-340 RWHP.

That's how I plan to run my exhaust. Have any pics and video of it running with the exhaust done?

Nothing really that special about what you are looking for, if I calculate correctly. You are looking for a 10" x 2.5" spring in a 375 lbs rate. Try here. http://www.eshocks.com/hyp_ind.asp?SubCheck=5+IDQ2%2E&Free_Length=0Q1&SubChar=Q

Just like most metals, I'd say "probably". Of course, it would take time to make it amount to any significant amount. It would most likely be surface rust, which would be worn off at first use, but not enough to cause in problem with the integrity of the unit. It would be tough to have anything really rust badly.

Upper left of the door is the door handle, so someone in the back seat can open the door if need be. It is a 2+2 after all.

Nice door panels. I'm just wondering who made the 240 cubic inch motor in that thing!

So, is the mount $550 or does it include a compressor? JCI sells the mount & compressor for $450, so I was just wondering. Here it is on my LS6.

Dave, I see what you are saying. The graph is pretty interesting in how it "looks" and would like to see it on a graph like the one on your car. iflyfast1, do you have any pics of your car?

Well, just to play the game, it would take custom engine mounts, a custom transmission adapter, custom headers, dealing with all the accessory & intake problems that a FWD setup has when trying to install into a RWD config and so much more. Heck, if the FWD SR20 doesn't work where the RWD version does (in a 510 or Z), then you can see why this really isn't worth the effort. If you had a bottomless pocketbook and were doing it just to be different, then you can make anything work. If you are looking for ease of install and best "bang for the buck" with a V8 conversion, the SBC or LSX is really the best way to go. (of course, some Ford & Mopar guys may disagree!)

I got the glass back from the window tint shop and installed the side glass and set the hatch glass in place. I also installed the rear tail light panel & licence plate. Also go around to putting on the MMI billet CV adapters and Z31 CV axles. At least it's looking more complete. I'm still waiting to get my rear wing back from the paint shop. When I picked up the car, the guy dropped the wing and chipped the corner & had to repaint it. It's always something.