mutantZ

I've had work done by John while he was at Betamotorsports and I thought the prices were fair for what I was getting done. It seems expensive until you realize that you are paying for work done by someone extremely familiar with the car you have and has done this sort of thing many times over. Metal is metal, its how you put it together that counts. That being said, I understand the need for a budget. Another option is to save/wait longer to get something that is known to work and has worked before, especially with suspension/brake components. Good look with your project.

Mine was pouring out cause my float was adjusted wayyyyyyyy too low. So it never got close to the top to shut the fuel off. Also there might be a tiny piece of crud stuck in the needle.

How do they compare with the Quaife units? I've only ever heard of race cars with them (quaife). http://quaife.co.uk/shop/products/qbe60g-0

Nice, I'll give the stocker a try first, if I don't like it I'll try out this link. Q-ship...I think that name sums up that car pretty well!

I thought that there was an issue due to the fact the non linear pull was being tailored to a much larger displacement engine? I believe it was covered in this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/54034-big-throttle-bodies-why/ I was specifically curious (also to avoid this thread getting chucked in the shed) if anyone has any success using that cam linkage. I'll prob give it a shot since its only $40 and I don't want to hold up the group buy. I know people have talked about an eccentric linkage before but so far I haven't seen a solution for it other than sticking with a smaller TB.

I am getting one of the custom plenum intakes currently going on the group buy thread here: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/101620-l6-intake-manifold-group-buy/ Most people seem to be opting for the Q45 throttle plate, as I am doing as well, mostly for convenience of getting the base made. I assume if I don't like the performance of it, it's much easier to neck down an adapter plate for a smaller throttle body than to do the inverse. While looking around on other forums about how to deal with the issues of tip in on a large throttle bore, I cam across this eccentric wheel made for the drifter scene. I am not sure how the offsets work, but I was wondering if this might solve some of the tip in issues. If not, I'll just nip the problem in the bud and go for a 240sx throttle bore and lose some of my "street cred" bling out of my engine bay. Here is the link to the wheel: http://www.gktech.com/index.php/v2-s14a-s15-eccentric-throttle-wheel.html

Sorry old thread, but I came across this today. Wondering if any of the RB guys have used it at all? http://www.rhdjapan.com/ikeya-formula-sequential-shifter-s13-s14-hcr32-ecr33-30052

Agreed, i don't think there is an amendment to the constituion about owning a vehicle and driving one. Yet everyone gets to own a vehicle despite the fact they really don't possess the faculties to do it. I've met more than a few people who say they hate driving, which makes me cringe thinking there must be a lot more non-drivers out there in this world.

I just took off the outer CV assembly but the cage retaining clip got bent in the process. Its the clip thats just inside the lip of the outer housing. Does anyone know where I can find a possible replacement. I looked on courtesy nissan, but it's hard to tell in the parts image if they are talking about the clip I need or the spring clip that is on the axle shaft itself. If anyone has any information it would be really appreciated.

Custom JRZ coilovers for a 510! We could use 1/2 of this set, dunno about matching it to the rear. http://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/pts/3942182189.html

Seems like it would be a good alternative to dash gauges in a track car. I wonder how much it costs. http://www.aimsports.com/weblog/archives/2013/07/aim_gt_steering.html

I wonder which would cost more. Pics of the OS Giken head make me go out and buy lotto tickets.

Very pretty engine.

Good to know. I'll prob leave them alone then. I think they would be worth even less than nothing if I practiced on it.

Is there anything particularly desireable about this manifold? I found one that I bought a long time ago and was thinking of modding it as a welding project. It's definitely seen better days–the ID plate is long gone and I don't have all the linkages for it. I'm not trying to sell it, but I would hate to chop up something that people are looking for.

Came across this. Some NOS SU's. Last model I believe, no idea if they are desireable, but hey they are nice and clean! http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/pts/3858822875.html

How does NASCAR, as well as other racing groups, make so much power even when they are so restricted on airflow? Granted they would make 750+ without the plates, they seem to do pretty well with them in.

Just came across this vid of some guys putting together a chassis. I thought it was prefered to have the tubing flush fit against each other rather than leaving gaps. Though to be fair, it is just for a charity auction.

In an election year? Never!

Very clean job. I like how you can't really hear it with the v8 next to him. http://www.speedhunters.com/2012/07/2jz_mustan/

You mean there isn't a bolt on combustion chamber? Seriously though, I guess I was asking an oversimplified question. I was just wondering if anyone made any significant gains while tuned for 87. It could be 130whp, but 300 was just a figure I pulled out of the ether. It was just a curiosity seeing as how alot of people look to run race gas or e85 and tune for max hp, I was just wondering if anyone went the other route (of sorts) and tuned for lower octane. I'll go back to my google dyno sim now.

Good responses so far guys. I mostly asked the question in terms of engine efficiency, or combustion efficiency rather. I only stated 300hp just cause that seems to be the number most questions get asked about (how do I make 300hp L motor etc). I know the modern GM truck engines run on 87 octane all day and make more hp per cubic inch than their stock counterparts from around the time of the L series engines. I know it's 5.3 liters to 2.8, but they do make more power relative to their older counterparts. I was just wondering if anyone has modded their combustion chambers/pistons to make anywhere near the hp of the mystical 300hp mark, but able to run on lower octane (NA or turbo) and not have a serious detonation issue. I don't plan on running 87 octane at all, but it was more of tech/bench racing question to see what other people have achieved.

Couple nights back I read a few threads dealing with detonation resistance by reshaping combustion chambers, pistons, etc. I was just wondering what kind of documented HP have members been able to achieve on their L motors using the crappy stuff? I know anyone who is at the dyno is prob not going to be running 87, but just for kicks I was wondering if people have been able to hit the 300hp mark. Please list what types of mods done to prevent the dreaded L-boom.

I guess that would make it JDM sweet!

Hmmm, something looks a little strange here.