280Z-LS3

Since the mount style is a non issue will be on the lookout for 2005-2008 15:1 rack I can pickup locally to play with. I do plan to track the car so want to try the 15:1 rack. I have tig welder so adding mount tabs on rack to fit S30 stock rack mounts is not a problem if need be. Only issue will be possibly melting seals in rack. The input shaft seals are cheap and easy to replace, which I would do anyway, just don't know procedure to replace the seals on the tie rod sides. I think they are more entailed and may require special tools. Did you run the stock hard lines on rack? Would the swap be easier if custom hard lines or stainless steel braided lines are used?

Guess that means my kit will arrive in a few days, super excited! Thanks again for designing this 8.8 swap kit and willingness to share your knowledge and experience.

Found a 2004 STI rack on ebay easily but then realized it was RHD.

The Subura rack swap is well documented utilizing 90's and early 2000 Subaru cars here and around web. As donor cars become newer their rack utilize large diameter tie rods thereby needing different compatible tie rods. The swap using most current rack I found was by winstonusmc and has sorted out the parts for larger tie rods I would like to source a 15:1 ratio rack with 2.5 turns lock to lock. The stock S30 rack has 2.6 or 2.7 turn to turn correct? 2004 WRX rack has 16:1 with 3 turns lock to lock I believe. The 2004 STI rack is 15:1 but finding one used is not easy, rare beast. From what I gather all the 2005-2007 WRX and STI cars came with 15:1 rack but they differ slightly in mounts. The 2005-2007 have round mounts while the 2004 older have a round mount on passenger and a square mount on driver's side. This nasioc link states the 2005-2007 racks can be fitted to the 2004 Subaru cars so assuming these racks will work as outlined in winstonusmc swap. https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2867695 A saddle can be easily made for the square driver's mount on the S30 to accommodate the round mount on 2005-2007 rack. Seems many Subaru owners are running the newer racks in 2004 and older cars without modifying the square mount. Questionable practice which I'll do my best to avoid. Need to confirmed the threads M16 x 1.5 and overall width of 2005-2007 are identical to 2004 rack. Am I missing anything?

A quick google search for single turbo vq37 came up with Doc Race. Web page states kits are in development and offered in 5 HP levels: Garrett GTW3476R (aka GTW5857R) Ball Bearing 500hp- $4995 Garrett GTW3684R (aka GTW6262R) Ball Bearing 600hp- $4995 Garrett GTW3884R (aka GTW6265R), 62mm Ball Bearing 625hp- $5095 Garrett GTW3884R (aka GTW6465R), 64mm Ball Bearing 700hp- $5195 Garrett GTW3884R (aka GTW6765R), 67mm Ball Bearing 800hp- $5295 These kits are half the cost of twin turbo kits I've seen but still a chunk of money. Being new to turbos not confident I could build a turbo kit from scratch at an attempt to save money. I agree with Sanchez in comparing HP to dollars spent. My plan was to build out my LS3 block with an entry level N/A LS stroker yielding 600HP costing at least $6000, $2000 for Holley HP ECU then add a Tremec Magnum and clutch/flywheel for $5000. That $13K, which is a conservative estimate, can go a long way to putting a turbo on a low miles junk yard VQ37/trans pullout. Curious if the 370Z piping would for the S30 chassis and at what HP level would turbo lag start to become noticeable?

I am at a crossroads regarding which way to go with engine swap for my 75 280Z. I picked up a 2007 Yukon XL short block (basically a LS3) to start my build. But now I am considering just getting a 2010 G37s donor car or compete engine/trans pullout and going twin turbo. From the little I've read so far on the VQ37VHR is a stout motor capable of handling 800+ in stock form. Also, the CDOOA 6sp manual tranny again is stout holding up to many high HP turbo builds. The LS was going to be N/A but the VQ37 will need to be turbo to satisfy HP needs. I have not played with turbos so they really are a "black box" and seem to require big budgets.

Looks good! Speaking for many of us here, really appreciate sharing all your hard work and detailing the reasoning behind design.

If your serious about a full cage go old school, vintage BSR-260Z-IMSA design. Since my 280Z will be street driven like the OP's car I will most likely build something similar to Dan's Street Cage design. Love these old photos.

I have a question about coil overs used with this swap. In the first post it was mentioned the WRX coil over would be this swap then later on in the thread the STR units would be used. Is the rear diff swap and Mustang front brake swap designed to be used with either strut/coilovers? My 280Z will be more of an autocross/road course use so hope the coil over used has good after market support for road racing. Don't know much about either WRX or SRT racing and building suspension in general but know good shocks/coil overs, which don't come cheap, are key to handling. Also, excited at the prospect of utilizing both front and rear 2015 Mustang brakes which opens up great possibilities and aftermarket support.

texix30O can you post up the spreadsheet please. I lost my copy some how... Still waiting patiently for someone to start producing Will's design. I have the Explorer diff and axles but holding off gathering other parts till I can source the custom machined parts that are crucial to making this swap work. It would be nice to have the CAD files so I can have a friend make the parts. J

Something else also to consider if going remanufactured axles. Axles take a "torque" setting making them driver and passenger side specific after use. I can see the reman'd units getting mixed up. May not matter in a grocery getter/soccer mom truck but for high HP applications such as ours, well, you decide. J

Hey Will, Picked up a 2003 Explorer 8.8 3.73 LSD with both axles so ready when you are. Hint, hint. For those interested the current going rate here in Central California is between $300-400 for carrier and axles. I paid $365. J

Put me down for a kit also Will. I think you can sell more than a few kits so a second run NEEDS to happen! PM'd you a few minutes ago without reading through to end of thread cause this looks like a great kit. Can anyone with first production run kit chime in on their installation and subsequent performance. I plan on HPDE and road course TTs so will be driving the car hard. Excited about not having concern as to whether the rear can handle LS3 power and torque. Joseph

Anyone have success using an aftermarket RR pan for their LSX motor swap such as Canton or Kevco? I have read the LS1 pan has the lowest profile which makes it preferable but the LS2 pan has been used successfully even though it has slightly larger dimensions. The aftermarket pans have wider and deeper sump which makes me wonder if header clearance will be an issue. I am in the hunt right now for LS2/LS3/L72/L94, basically any 6.0L or 6.2L compete pull out motor from car or truck. The truck pans are huge so if I am forced to get a new pan should I consider an aftermarket unit with baffles, etc. The next question is will the front dress accessories of the truck/Pontiac/Caddy motors clear the hood or frame rail? The truck alternator is placed high on the upper driver's side of the motor. The Pontiac and Caddy motors have the alternator down by the driver's frame rail. Is the front dress of the f-body and Corvette best when swapping into the S30? FYI, I have a 75 280Z. Well, I'll throw out one more question. The flex-fuel L9H and L94 truck motors have huge 54 lbs. injectors. Can these be used without running E85 gas? I assume the fuel sensor that determines gas/alcohol ratio will be needed. Or is this a moot point cause I should swap to a LS3 intake and injectors. Here is an awesome writeup on the LSX series motors. http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/LSPrimer/Part1/ http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/LSPrimer/Part2/ J