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Everything posted by 280Z-LS3

  1. Which OEM LS accessory drive fits best in S30 and would like to have A/C. I have read the most compact design is the 2006-07 LS2 Cadillac CTS version.
  2. Forgot to mention that the paint vapors are heavier than air and will sink to the floor level so make sure you have good air movement along the floor. It looks like your air system will provide good air exchange along the floor but check. I used SPI epoxy primer and polyurethane clear. The owner of SPI is readily available to talk tech and I took advantage with a few phones call to him. He paints his cars in his garage with no plastic. His method is to lift garage door about 12" to allow the vapors to flow out and wets down floor, that's it. Looking forward to seeing the finished paint job!
  3. I have painted only one car so take this advice accordingly, lol. I assume you are spraying traditional solvent based paint, not water based so please get good 3M paint respirators and you have a good seal to face, clean shaven. Use a Tyvek suit too. https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/103197O/automotive-respirators-and-safety-products.pdf Have you tested movement of air with smoke, like with a cigarette? Great paint jobs have been produced in lesser facilities, i.e. in back yards, literally! Spray gun technique is key and especially in the tight space you have there. I would suggest practice on some fenders. I grabbed some from a body shop dumpster. Sort out properly thinning paint for atmospheric conditions and spray pattern. t's all in the Prep too. Make sure everything is clean by wiping down with quality wax and grease remover., can't be too clean. Oil and wax will give "fish eyes" in paint. I purchased a turbine sprayer because did not want to deal with cleaning compressed air. I can't tell the color of the lighting your have installed. I picked up some cheap 5000K led lights, sun light color, for my shop. Below 5000K light looks yellow and above looks blue. Don't know if color of light will make a difference but I liked the idea of replicating sunlight.
  4. PM me, I live in Templeton also. Gathering parts for a 280Z build now. Joseph
  5. Silvermine has a BBK kit using 12.88" rotors up front which is interesting. I believe it uses a 2004 STI rotor with 1.18" wide. I am looking to use a slightly larger diameter hat and rotor 13-13.2" and 1.25" wide to take advantage of all clearance in 17' wheel. Not really trying to reinvent proven systems but just design a system within parameters of my build. If need be will head over to friend's shop to use his Bridgeport to fabricate custom bracket which should allow me to mount almost any appropriately sized caliper/rotor combo up front. The rears are easy because of the 8.8 swap uses 2015 hubs, plenty of off shelf brake options.
  6. I have been experimenting with this calculator. https://www.tceperformanceproducts.com/dual-bias-calc/
  7. Any chance different link to Jake's calculator? That one is not working. Also googled Jake Latham's brake calculator with no success
  8. I plan on using the stock suspension design modified with coil overs, rod ends, swap bars, camber plates, etc. Don't know if that clarifies the suspension question though. Does eventual shock valving, spring rates, ride height will need to be factored into initial brake system design? If so, that's really starting to look like a "chicken or egg" conundrum lol. I will continue learning about brake bias via piston sizing front and rear calipers and matching rotor sizing, both diameter and width, front to rear. A real world description of how a car was setup would be helpful, I learn best by example. Would like to add learning this stuff is half the fun, maybe more recalling times of frustration while wrenching. The knock back issue has been on my mind. If I recall correctly the AP Racing calipers Essex offers have knock back springs. Will inquire if Wilwood offers knock back springs for calipers that are of interest for my application.
  9. I spoke with Wilwood, StopTech and Essex and here is a bit of a review of experience. Wilwood was the most helpful but clearly wanted to steer me to pre-assembled kit only because I mentioned was employing 2015 Mustang Super 8.8 rear and possibly 2018 Mustang front spindles. Felt the tech really wanted to help but I needed to give him more info which is why I started this thread. StopTech did not want to give me the time of day, buy a kit or go away was basically my options. Essex was wanting to be helpful but also said buy a kit because of their "limited stock". He did offer to sell me anything from AP Racing's extensive the Euro catalog, which he emailed over, but I was to be "on my own" choosing parts. I will crack this "black box" lol Thanks for the heads up on Tilton for pedal and M/C. I am hoping to design a system utilizing standard stocked hats from one of three above. I have the rears covered with Wilwood hat 170-14430 but will be locked into using a 12.88" rotor ring which is the smallest diameter offered compatible with 2015 Mustang hat which is machined for 12x8.75 rotor bolt circle. Thinking this should be ok since the 12.88" ring is offered in 0.81", 1" and 1.1" widths. One of these should match well with 13.06"x1.25" front rotor #160-8165 if I can find a hat. I am shying away from the 2014 Mustang spindle swap because it moves the wheel 3/4" forward in wheel well. Arizona Z Car and Techno Toy Tuning both offer 5x4.5" hubs for stock spindles which match the rear 2015 Mustang hub pattern. Hopefully either companies will share the hat off set used in their BBK before I buy a hub set to check hat availability. If not may just gamble by buying a set and hope I can find an off the shelf hat. Or, last resort, have a pair machined by Colman Racing.
  10. Thanks Ironhead, these comments are exactly my thinking. So i guess my issue is where to start. Since I have rim size limiting rotor size do I just maximize rotor, say at 12.88" or 13" with 1.25" width for front then choose front caliper size then match rear rotor/caliper accordingly? From what little I understand the larger the piston size the greater the torque for a given pedal effort. Found this little nugget on the web: "All things being the same.... a 1.25" bore FSL generates 2531"lbs of torque at 509psi and 60lbs of leg effort. Moving to a 1.375 FSL- Same effort and same pressure: 3062"lbs of torque. +17% Moving to a 1.625 FSL- Same effort and same pressure: 4278"bls of torque. +40%" FSL is Wilwwod Forged Superlite. How much torque is too much, that's the question. All the rest can fall into place
  11. Yeah, been poking around seeing what others have done. Will jump over to ZCarGarage to look at StopTech kit to see what I can learn. Getting an understanding of parts choice is what I'm after
  12. Gathering parts for my 1975 280Z build and time to get the brakes sorted out. Been hunting around the web for brake parts from the major aftermarket players, in particular Wilwood, AP Racing and StopTech. Don't really want to just buy a "kit" from a Z car vendor, purchase parts for custom setup or swap an OEM system without understanding what I am getting and how it will fulfill my requirements and expectations which is performing under road course track duty. I am honestly new to performance brake theory and hope to learn enough to talk intelligently with brake vendors to hone in on a properly designed and balanced brake system. For starters would like to understand how to choose piston sizes in calipers and relation the front calipers piston size have to rear caliper piston size to produce adequate brake torque for S30 chassis. Floating vs bolted rotor ring pros and cons. Proper rotor thickness front and rear, assume starting with 1.25" width up front. Brake pad choice is easy to get into ball park with recommendations. Going to be using a dual M/C to maximize tuning of brake bias. Street legal 275 R17 autocross/track tires are planned. I believe the only item that may need to be custom fab'd are radial caliper mounts which confident I can handle. All other parts should be off shelf from Wilwood, they post extensive product into on their webpage as does AP Racing but they are Euro based thus harder to source. StopTech I have found to be lacking in product description. Hope this is enough info to get the conversation started. Any words of wisdom truly appreciated!
  13. The pics on your swap thread are out of focus or low resolution making it hard to see detail. I see lower res photos on other sites also and don't know the cause. The "pocketing" of the sub-frame is not a big deal, actually enjoy this type of metal work. Another member here used a newer style JDM RHD rack to convert to a RHD car. That rack has the 2005+ mounting tabs design instead of the older style round and square type mounts. He had to cut off the mount ears to make it work, basically ending up with two round mounts. Not sure why he needed to cut the ears off, maybe it would not clock correctly to have input shaft line up with steering shaft. As you suggested it would be better to fab mount on sub-frame to accommodate the mount ears of newer rack. Good to hear the rack seals are easily replaced.
  14. Since the mount style is a non issue will be on the lookout for 2005-2008 15:1 rack I can pickup locally to play with. I do plan to track the car so want to try the 15:1 rack. I have tig welder so adding mount tabs on rack to fit S30 stock rack mounts is not a problem if need be. Only issue will be possibly melting seals in rack. The input shaft seals are cheap and easy to replace, which I would do anyway, just don't know procedure to replace the seals on the tie rod sides. I think they are more entailed and may require special tools. Did you run the stock hard lines on rack? Would the swap be easier if custom hard lines or stainless steel braided lines are used?
  15. Guess that means my kit will arrive in a few days, super excited! Thanks again for designing this 8.8 swap kit and willingness to share your knowledge and experience.
  16. Found a 2004 STI rack on ebay easily but then realized it was RHD.
  17. The Subura rack swap is well documented utilizing 90's and early 2000 Subaru cars here and around web. As donor cars become newer their rack utilize large diameter tie rods thereby needing different compatible tie rods. The swap using most current rack I found was by winstonusmc and has sorted out the parts for larger tie rods I would like to source a 15:1 ratio rack with 2.5 turns lock to lock. The stock S30 rack has 2.6 or 2.7 turn to turn correct? 2004 WRX rack has 16:1 with 3 turns lock to lock I believe. The 2004 STI rack is 15:1 but finding one used is not easy, rare beast. From what I gather all the 2005-2007 WRX and STI cars came with 15:1 rack but they differ slightly in mounts. The 2005-2007 have round mounts while the 2004 older have a round mount on passenger and a square mount on driver's side. This nasioc link states the 2005-2007 racks can be fitted to the 2004 Subaru cars so assuming these racks will work as outlined in winstonusmc swap. https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2867695 A saddle can be easily made for the square driver's mount on the S30 to accommodate the round mount on 2005-2007 rack. Seems many Subaru owners are running the newer racks in 2004 and older cars without modifying the square mount. Questionable practice which I'll do my best to avoid. Need to confirmed the threads M16 x 1.5 and overall width of 2005-2007 are identical to 2004 rack. Am I missing anything?
  18. A quick google search for single turbo vq37 came up with Doc Race. Web page states kits are in development and offered in 5 HP levels: Garrett GTW3476R (aka GTW5857R) Ball Bearing 500hp- $4995 Garrett GTW3684R (aka GTW6262R) Ball Bearing 600hp- $4995 Garrett GTW3884R (aka GTW6265R), 62mm Ball Bearing 625hp- $5095 Garrett GTW3884R (aka GTW6465R), 64mm Ball Bearing 700hp- $5195 Garrett GTW3884R (aka GTW6765R), 67mm Ball Bearing 800hp- $5295 These kits are half the cost of twin turbo kits I've seen but still a chunk of money. Being new to turbos not confident I could build a turbo kit from scratch at an attempt to save money. I agree with Sanchez in comparing HP to dollars spent. My plan was to build out my LS3 block with an entry level N/A LS stroker yielding 600HP costing at least $6000, $2000 for Holley HP ECU then add a Tremec Magnum and clutch/flywheel for $5000. That $13K, which is a conservative estimate, can go a long way to putting a turbo on a low miles junk yard VQ37/trans pullout. Curious if the 370Z piping would for the S30 chassis and at what HP level would turbo lag start to become noticeable?
  19. I am at a crossroads regarding which way to go with engine swap for my 75 280Z. I picked up a 2007 Yukon XL short block (basically a LS3) to start my build. But now I am considering just getting a 2010 G37s donor car or compete engine/trans pullout and going twin turbo. From the little I've read so far on the VQ37VHR is a stout motor capable of handling 800+ in stock form. Also, the CDOOA 6sp manual tranny again is stout holding up to many high HP turbo builds. The LS was going to be N/A but the VQ37 will need to be turbo to satisfy HP needs. I have not played with turbos so they really are a "black box" and seem to require big budgets.
  20. Looks good! Speaking for many of us here, really appreciate sharing all your hard work and detailing the reasoning behind design.
  21. If your serious about a full cage go old school, vintage BSR-260Z-IMSA design. Since my 280Z will be street driven like the OP's car I will most likely build something similar to Dan's Street Cage design. Love these old photos.
  22. I have a question about coil overs used with this swap. In the first post it was mentioned the WRX coil over would be this swap then later on in the thread the STR units would be used. Is the rear diff swap and Mustang front brake swap designed to be used with either strut/coilovers? My 280Z will be more of an autocross/road course use so hope the coil over used has good after market support for road racing. Don't know much about either WRX or SRT racing and building suspension in general but know good shocks/coil overs, which don't come cheap, are key to handling. Also, excited at the prospect of utilizing both front and rear 2015 Mustang brakes which opens up great possibilities and aftermarket support.
  23. texix30O can you post up the spreadsheet please. I lost my copy some how... Still waiting patiently for someone to start producing Will's design. I have the Explorer diff and axles but holding off gathering other parts till I can source the custom machined parts that are crucial to making this swap work. It would be nice to have the CAD files so I can have a friend make the parts. J
  24. Something else also to consider if going remanufactured axles. Axles take a "torque" setting making them driver and passenger side specific after use. I can see the reman'd units getting mixed up. May not matter in a grocery getter/soccer mom truck but for high HP applications such as ours, well, you decide. J
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