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Everything posted by 280Z-LS3

  1. Don't think I am going to blast the body Richard. Other than the door and firewall there is minimal rust. That will save me some money I can put to other things. Next step is the Bad Dog frame connectors. While I'm prepping for the rails will poke around with the sander and screw driver just to make sure there are no hidden patches of rust.
  2. Did you make that t-56 cross member or purchase it?
  3. A small update. Finished the the boring tear down. Ziplock bagging all the parts, removing mastic sheet sound deadener and cleaning remaining mastic residue with Mineral spirits. The windshield seal became brittle over the years and needed to dug out with razor knife, not fun. The is body free of rust as I hoped except for the known areas, passenger door and passenger fire wall. Seems the car was exposed to a sprinkler or something in the passenger side for a time. My last build was a Mustang, see pic, and didn’t want to relive that experience so waited to find a body on good shape. I have a replacement passenger door which has some repaired collision damage. Going to strip the door, remove the collision bar so I can weld up drill holes used to pull the door skin and hammer it out to minimize bondo. Will remove the drivers door collision bar also. Installing a full cage so they would be redundant anyway. I toyed with the idea of using the spare door as a donor for the rusted area of the original door but the location And extent of the rust damage would make that job very complex. I can live with the bondo on the panel.
  4. That's a beautiful engine bay! I have a modest budget so need to "value engineer" a few things. I get what you are saying about sizing the system properly. The two fans I listed move massive amounts of air and are OEM durable. Just need to spec a quality radiator with 1" cores. Will post what I eventually get in my build thread.
  5. Yeah, the car is gutted now and making rotisserie mounts to connect to bumper brackets today. A HybridZ member sent over a link with chassis measurements to double check the chassis is square before welding in SFC.
  6. First thing I am doing to my 280Z is install the Bad Dog frame rails and have a question on how the car should be supported to limit chassis flex as I weld in the rails. Should I have the car supported by all four wheels or is it okay to have it supported from bumper mounts on a rotisserie? The car is rust free and in good shape with no apparent collision damage
  7. I will be using Tilton 72-607 pedal assembly, dual master cylinders (size to be determined) and 72-509 bias adjuster. I chose the Tilton pedals because modifying the stock pedal assembly with balance bar for dual master cylinders requires some work which I'd rather put into installing an aftermarket pedal system. Also, since I will running manual brakes Tilton has the option of 6.2:1 pedal ratio giving added leverage over the modified OEM pedal which gives just under 5:1. Putting off purchasing the calipers and rotors for now because plenty on the "build plate" right now. After I get the engine/trans, suspension and roll cage installed will get brakes and wheels.
  8. That's really a hard question to answer in absolute terms. From what I have learned 70/30 is a ball park with any car. There are variables such as tires, brake pads, track conditions, etc. that will necessitate altering brake bias. Use a brake calculator to size master cylinders to system then use a remote adjuster to dial in for certain conditions. This is assuming you are going with dual master cylinders. Below is link to Tilton's remote adjuster. https://tiltonracing.com/product/standard-remote-brake-bias-adjuster/
  9. Good advice everyone and leaning toward replacing body harness. Cary makes a convincing argument with good points on age of wiring, what OEM harness was designed to handle and, most convincingly, what as necessity will need to be replaced as I modify and swap engine, gauges, heating and A/C systems. There is not much left to replace after all that is taken into consideration. Even though my car was well taken care of and unmolested throughout it's life, having been carport or garage kept in San Diego area, the electrical connectors are brittle with corrosion present as Cary mentioned. This is concerning then add the specter of work hardened wire breaking in unknown locations is telling me to ditch the OEM harness. Also, my alt is a 140amp from a 2006 Caddy CTS-V so I will have some amps! Only question now is who makes the best quality harness that can be mounted in the passenger kick panel area? Someone mentioned the EZ and/or Painless are designed for American cars locating the fuse box in the driver's kick panel which makes a few wire runs too short for S30. Maybe an extra long option is available from EZ?
  10. Tearing down my 1975 280Z car to prep for my build. It's getting an LS3 and will most likely use Holley Terminator Max X wiring harness and ECU. The OEM harness is massive, a ton of wire branching out from the passenger kick panel, see pic. I have read some threads of guys with 240Z using EZ and Painless universal body harnesses with some success while others suggest staying ith the OEM body harness. In either case they will be integrated with what ever engine harness I end up using. My issue with the OEM, although it's in great shape, is it's a ton of wire, connector and brackets located in the general area where I'll need room for a roll cage. I hope to fit a small universal heat/defrost and A/C unit under the dash above the passenger foot well. Looking for some guidance from those that have tackled the 1975 and newer EFI 280Z cars. Does it matter what year, the applied principles being the same? Should I attempt to strip the OEM harness of what I don't need to get it to a manageable size or would it be easier to just get a universal harness? Stripping the harness seems a daunting task while converting over to a universal harness not that much easier if at all...
  11. Can anyone offer advice on using an aftermarket body wiring harness? My 76 280Z EFI has an incredible amount of wiring on the passenger kick panel that is going to make fitting roll cage, engine ecu, etc difficult if not impossible.
  12. Need the three piece plastic set that surround the tail lights and hold license plate. I believe the tail lights for 260Z and 280Z are the same so anything from a 1974 260Z thru 1978 280Z should work.
  13. Tear down begins. Engine/trans drained and pulled out. Fuel system and interior next.
  14. John sent me this pic the other day.
  15. First off would like to say I would never have had the knowledge nor courage to tackle this build without HybridZ and its awesome community so willing to offer advice and share ideas. Purchased my running 1975 280Z almost rust free San Diego area car about 4 years ago with the intent to start the build sooner. With getting two girls off to college then moving to a new home, which included renting for a year while finding the "right" property, let's say the car hobby took a back seat. Sacrilege! The silver lining is all this time afforded plenty of lurking here, other Z sites and Ls1Tech reading, learning, planning then changing the plan a few times. Finally settled on a build which I will get into now. Engine I knew I wanted an LS3 motor because it's powerful, compact, well supported by aftermarket, and affordable. Grabbed a 2008 Corvette LS3 complete pullout. With cam and headers upgrade 450+ rwhp is easy, more than enough for a 2600 lb car being built for the canyons, Autocross and track days. Transmission The F-Body 98-02 T-56 fits the S-30 chassis well, shifter lines up in stock trans tunnel hole almost perfectly. However, these are hard to find and expensive on used market so choosing a new Magnum-F, touted as "direct" replacement for F-Body, makes sense. For the added cost of new over used, you get brand new never beaten on trans with better internals capable of handling more torque and improved shifting. This is a major purchase line item so have been it putting off as long as possible. Time is growing near to get it into the garage... Rear Differential Although my 1995 Z has a stout-as-hell R200, the rest of the stock rear is a mess needing expensive upgrades to handle LS3 torque. A few Mustang 8.8 swap came and went over the years then Vlad, AKA Invincible Extremes, came out with his 2015 Mustang Super 8.8 swap. Watched the whole development thread then pulled the trigger, boom! Insane power handling with easily sourced parts. Ordered up Vlad's "tack welded" kit with his custom axles, purchased an 8.8 Torsen limited slip 3.73 gear diff and some new hubs. Done. Bring on the HP... Suspension Vlad introduced me to Noah (Instagram: @noahdropkin), a young talented mechanical engineer, when I had in depth technical questions about the 2014 Mustang spindle swap. Noah had the 2014 spindle swap at the time and also has the Super 8.8 swap. His main reason for interest in the 2014 swap, as well as mine, was it gave a cheap and strong 5 lug hub to match the rear 5 lug hub of 8.8 swap. There are a few compromises with the 2014 spindle that we discussed at length. Over the course of a few weeks of discussions, Noah decided to grab a 2015 spindle to explore its possibility for swap. Doing some magic with a digital scanner and Solid Works he concluded this could actually work, with some custom parts of course... Hot Damn!!! Noah started in on the heaving lifting of computer modeling and fabrication, he truly is the brains and brawn behind all this, while I peppered him with questions during design phase. When Noah committed to building a swap kit for his car he asked if I would like one also. Ah, Hell Yeah! Noah has test fit the kit posting plenty of good pics on his Instagram page. The end result is the wheel base remains stock, slightly wider tract width, improved scrub radius, good camber and minimal effect on Ackerman. Steering ratio increases due to the shorter steering arms on the 2015 spindle. For Noah's 240 steering rack, the resulting steering ratio is a snappy 10:1 while with my 280 steering rack is close to 11.5:1, a bit more tame but still fast. Off the shelf coil overs are available for Vlad's front and rear swap but Noah and I agreed that good dampeners are in order. Custom strut tubes were fabricated for the Koni 8611-1259 dampeners, arguably the best off the shelf dual adjustable dampeners for S-30 chassis. More details to follow as I dig into this build now that the major parts are here to play with. The last pic is 2015 Mustang with swap concept drawn.
  16. How is the ground clearance with Hawk's headers? Or put another way, how far below frame rails do these headers sit? Please mention the engine swap mounts you are using also. I am fabricating some custom puck style mounts to optimize fitment. American Racing Headers is the maker of Hawk's headers. Went to ARH website and learned that they offer a 1 3/4" primary tube and confirmed with a phone call. Hawk's website only has the 1 7/8" option. I was reluctant to use the 1 7/8" on the stock 376 cu.in. displacement LS3 so happy to learn these headers are offered in the smaller 1 3/4".
  17. What is the spacing on the John's Cars A/C bracket? Can it be ordered in one of three LS spacings, Corvette, F-Body or Truck?
  18. Thanks Wildfire490. My car is a 1975. Your comments are exactly what I have been reading about radiators. Chinese radiators like Champion use smaller .626-.75" cores while American made typically use the larger cores. Most C6 and C7 Corvette "upgrade" radiators are two core using 1" or larger cores and the density of cores is higher. What special connections should LS radiators have installed? I believe a nipple for head steam hose. Anything else? Any recommendations on where upper and lower hose locations should be located on the radiator for a N/A motor, seems there are few configurations from which to choose. Sorry for the basic questions, my first LS swap. Off to study OEM LS cooling system design...
  19. While searching around for fans to cool the LS3 swap I came across two good possibilities. C7 Corvette 600w fan with integrated pwm controller 2008 Ford Fusion fan and pwm controller Could not find the exact size/dimensions of these fans so noted the radiator dimensions. Also got to thinking of just swapping the compete Rad/fan setup from either of these cars. C7 Corvette is 17.25x18.5x1 Fusion 17x25.75x1 These are single core radiators! Is it advisable to use a single core in the S30 chassis? Always thought the more cores the better in radiators. How times have changed! CX Racing has a nice 3 core 18.5x25x2.5 for under $200 made for the S30 chassis which very similar in size to the Fusion radiator so it's fan should fit well.
  20. Entertaining making my own mounts only because I will be running a dry sump oil system and long tube headers. Where is the "correct" location to mount the centerline of the engine? Is it dead center of engine bay or off to the passenger or driver side?
  21. Hey BRAAP,


    Can I change my user name to CA-LS3-280Z?  I am in member in good standing

  22. Ironhead installed the Magnum which put it about 4" forward of stock shifter hole in tunnel. I think the Magnum-F with shifter location 3" father toward the rear compared to Magnum will best match up with stock shifter hole. Have a look at Ironhead's build thread, he has a few good pics of installed Magnum. By the way, I will most likely be using a Magnum-F in my LS build because of the better fitment. I am curious why it is listed at $200 more then the other Magnum models...
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