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There is a direct connection from the battery to terminal 30. There is a switched connection from the battery to terminal 86. You can get battery power from the same wire and then split it before it gets to the relay and switch. Let me try to explain it again. 30: Positive wire to the battery. 85: Ground 86: Wire from 86 to one side of the switch. The other side of the switch should go to a power source. Some people use the ignition so the fans can only be turned on while the key is on. The simplest way is probably straight to the battery. 87: Wire to positive side of fan

If it's connected to itself it isn't switching anything. It should go battery -> switch -> relay.

Is the switch wire just connected back to itself inside that shrink wrap? You have to have the other end connected to the battery.

You could test if your switch is bad by just using a wire from the battery to 86 if you have it wired like I posted above. Below is a diagram that's probably easier to understand.

555 East American Steakhouse in Long Beach is one of my favorites. If you're driving from Santa Monica to Huntington, that would put you in the area near the end of the day.

How do you have the connections setup on the relay? It sounds like you have an unswitched positive wire hooked up to the trigger terminal. They should be wired as follows: 30: Positive wire from battery. Fuse should be in this wire between the relay and power source. 85: Ground 86: Trigger. This will be the wire coming from your switch. This should only get voltage when your switch is on 87: Output. Positive lead that runs to what you're powering. In this case, it's the fans. Both of them should be hooked to this wire if you want to power them with only one relay. 87A: Unused in this case The fans being grounded like you have them should be fine.

Check your PMs

Do you have one of those? How is the quality? Any issues with it flexing while open due to a breeze? I'm in need of a new hood and that looks like an attractive option.

In Melbourne? Must be further inland then. Cooling is even more important then I guess. I'm sure you have a handle on it, but I haven't heard of many 12V compressors that could keep up with that. I guess I'll wait and see like you said.

Going with some type of transformer to get higher voltage or running one at 12V? I looked into electric AC compressors awhile back and couldn't find anything that gave much performance at 12V. I guess Melbourne doesn't get very hot, so you probably don't need much.

Quite a few tracks and organizations don't accept motorcycle helmets. You generally need a Snell rating. I have a Simpson helmet that I think was great for the money. What is your definition of reasonably priced? You can get something that meets all the specs and will be high quality for ~$250, but it's not going to be super light and it won't be fancy.

Haha not at all! The work you're doing is amazing. I just hadn't realized that you were going for fully separating the drivetrain and body. It reminded me of a Vette.

I hadn't realized you were going for basically a full body-on-frame conversion. Japanese Corvette?

Agreed. I'm very interested. Between this and the recent leather console post, I have a direction for my interior.

It looks like there is some overhang on the armrest compartment area. Do you think there's enough stretch in the leather to cut some relief and fold it down without leaving big gaps?

Cool, thanks Tony. I already ordered the MSA bolt kit, but I'll keep JeffP's site in mind for future use.

Yeah, I saw a post from someone (might have been you) mentioning how they ruined a couple dampers before figuring out that the washer wasn't seating all the way. Thanks for the advice.

That would work great too. I see they mentioned it being sourced from Japan, but they also say they stock it. Is there a big delay when ordering them or would it be here quickly?

I'm putting a new, 2-groove damper on my car to accommodate the AC I'm installing. I've read that the bolt off a KA and a Volvo washer are improvements over the stock parts. However, I've never been able to find part numbers or the exact applications these parts come from. Can anyone help me out with some part numbers?

JW Speaker makes a 7" LED headlight that is really nice, but they're also pretty pricey. Since Jeeps also use 7" lights, there are quite a few options. I found a comparison awhile back of the most common setups: www.pirate4x4.com/tech/usmcdoc/lights

I guess I should have specified. My car didn't come with stock seats, so I don't have those as a comparison. Right now it has Cobra Imola ProFits in it, but they're pretty harsh for the street IMO.

How much headroom do you have with the R100? I really like the look of those seats, but I'm taller than you are and worry about my headroom.

Parts are starting to show up, but I haven't had as much time as I'd like to dedicate to the car. The AC compressor bracket is here, and the compressor should be here in a couple days. Waiting on ordering the evaporator unit until Summit decides to answer a question for me. Picked up a Champion 3-row radiator and shroud on Saturday, but their fans were out of stock. Should have those this week. Also snagged a 280Z voltmeter from a guy off cragislist, along with a C-pillar emblem to replace the one that I'm missing. Spent a good chunk of Sunday chasing around charging system gremlins. The only thing I glossed over while troubleshooting things was the voltage on the field wire. That's first on the list. My ammeter is permanently pegged, and I'm not getting a warning light at any time. The ammeter is in series with the field wire plug, correct? So if the bulb is burned out or the gauge is toast, that would prevent the alternator from being excited and beginning to charge?

Hello everyone! I don't have a fancy name for my car yet. The thread name will just have to be boring. A couple weeks ago, I drove down to San Diego and picked up my first 240Z. Just a single picture for now. I'll get more this weekend. Currently: Body is straight except for the small bit of damage in the front. Almost no rust, and has had some work done. As it sits right now, the following "upgrades" are on the car: L28E engine swap (converted to carb) Maxima rear brake conversion ZX master cylinder Cobra Imola Pro racing seats CodeAlarm1151 Keyless entry system/alarm EZ-wiring harness and relays kit Crane Cams ignition coil and controller I say "upgrades" because some of those things I don't want. The racing seats will have to go, and I'm not a fan of the CA1151 alarm. Keyless entry is great, but this is a budget system. To make things worse, the outer door handles currently aren't functional. The driver door pops open upon pressing the unlock button on the remote. That'll be one of the first things I try to remedy. Future Plans: This car is going to be mostly a weekend cruiser to take around the beach cities and out on the town. Maybe a bit of daily driver duty when I get the urge. I'm sure it will see a few canyon runs eventually, but I don't think it will ever see a track/autocross. I have a V6-powered MR2 that I get my track jollies with. I'll throw in a picture of that later for those of you who are interested. Since this will see some warm days and traffic, some modernization is in order. Air conditioning I'll be ordering a Vintage Air GenII Mini soon. Southern California gets a bit too warm for a car without AC, in my opinion. A bracket from Nostalgic AC for the compressor and some other well-fitting components should make this relatively easy. I'm excited to not be in the hatchback greenhouse. Locks/windows First, the door handles and locks need to be fixed. Once that's done, I can begin upgrading. Plan is for a Spal 3300-0030 power window kit to let in the beach air when I want. Power locks and a hatch popper will go in and be controlled by a Viper unit, likely the 3305V. Still not an expensive system, but I like the controls it offers and it's equipped with a 2-way remote. This way, I can be notified if someone opens my door without having to hear an obnoxious siren that goes off whenever someone brushes by the car. Cooling The temp gauge currently starts to creep if I push the car passed 65 in traffic on a warm day. There's no ducting on the radiator, and a good chunk of the fins are bent from when the mechanical fan decided to go on a field trip(before I owned the car). Somehow there aren't any holes in the radiator, but it doesn't look pretty. I'll be installing a Champion 3-row rad with aluminum ducting and electric fans. These will also play nicely with the AC system. I should be able to seal it well enough that I don't need a separate pusher fan in front of the condenser. Seats The full-on race seats are alright, but I find them to be a bit much. They're also the only bright blue thing on the car. I'm on the hunt for a set of retro Recaros. Most likely LS-B, but possibly LX-B if I find a good deal. I think the LS-B would be a better seat, but the LX-B would maintain the current style of the car a bit better. Alternator Oh, right. I didn't mention that the alternator died on the way home with the car. Not even a day into Z ownership and I was gifted with my first of what I'm sure will be many problems. While I'm in there, I think I'll upgrade to a CS144 GM unit. They're easier to find and will be able to power all of the added electronics I'll have. I'm picking up a 280Z voltmeter this weekend to swap in. Stereo This is last on the list and will probably wait a while, but a head unit and speakers are planned. 6X9s in the back with an MSA speaker panel. I'm not sure about the front yet. For the head unit, I really like the Retrosound Model Two. It seems to have great features and looks, but I've read some pretty poor reviews of the sound quality. Do any of you have experience with them or know of a similar "old-school" head unit that has modern features? Ok, that's plenty of text for a first post. I hope to get some actual work done this weekend and post an update or two. Here's a picture of the previously mentioned MR2, for those of you that care.

I made a deal with the guy for $3500. Picking it up Saturday.