calZ

Right, but the standard gear on the actual steering shaft is going to have a really, really hard time moving the worm gear to free-wheel the motor. It's just like how a crescent wrench doesn't open up when you're tightening a nut. The mechanical advantage is so large that it's essentially locked in place.

He was referring to the "differential" design. I've always been under the impression that the Vue setup uses the worm gear design.

How do the boxes with a worm gear work on no assist? You can't drive the worm gear with the gear on the shaft, so free-wheeling the electric motor wouldn't work. I know it works as I've seen the videos, I'm just not sure of the mechanism that allows it.

I'm trying to get my hands on a DZ Start Button as Dave no longer makes them. I can get the button itself and any cables, so if for some reason you only have the control box that's fine too.

I revisited this thread as I continue to plan some things out, and I noticed something. Do the windows on 280s not roll all the way down, or did you just not go all the way in your demonstration video? I know you mentioned that's why you didn't go up all the way, but I wanted to make sure that's the same case with the lower travel.

1975 and older are exempt. 240z/280z is a legitimate preference, but the 1975 would be exempt. https://www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/dmv/detail/vr/smogfaq

Did this not crop up until you put the new brakes on? Is your steering wheel on straight?

Sorry if I missed it, but what rotor/hat combo is this for? AZC hats?

And on the other hand, we use red on everything we don't want to vibrate off the racecar. The axle nuts take a big breaker bar to break loose, but they come off. Blue is probably sufficient for a street car, but I wouldn't say red is an absolute no.

That's a two position toggle switch, correct? So when it's not signaling the switch is just held vertical which is off? Probably not really designed to be used that way, but I guess I don't see why it wouldn't be ok other than the toggle spring possibly wearing more quickly.

I don't think it looks bad, but I prefer the stock front end with an airdam. It would come down a lot to how you blend the fender and hood in.

Heating up from engine heat or due to resisting all the chassis twisting?

Race season and summer commitments showed up and kind of put the car on the back burner for a bit. Haven't done much work lately, but was finally able to get my hands on a pair of Recaro Trophy seats. These originally came in a VW Mk2 and were only made for a couple years. They are relatively rare and I got them for a good price. Should look pretty nice once I clean up the center fabric a bit.

Someone running a tow yard wants to get rid of a towed car that never got paid for and doesn't know what it's worth. Plausible, but damn if something like that has ever happened to me.

Make it three that read it the same way. Generally when you make a lined list, things then are referred to graphically. I agree it's correct either way, but I think consensus is that intuitively "top two" was top two on the lined list. This thread was actually done 5 replies ago

http://www.troubleshooters.com/dont_disconnect_battery.htm

Your door panels must bend out around the crank location, right? The aftermarket kits seem easy, but I don't want the bowing that would be present when using something on the stock gear.

Agreed on the power window write-up. I looked into doing a standard conversion to mine, but all the other methods I've seen either require a plastic plug in the crank hole or rayven's fiberglass panels with speakers. I'd love the stock panel look minus the window crank.

Did you have a shroud on when you used the puller fan setups?

Glad to hear you're not giving up on it. Would be a shame after all the work you've done.

Moved out here for work a couple years ago, and I agree with everything you said. Too many people and too little space. It's pretty fun on weekends as a single guy though.

Glad you got it working!

There is a direct connection from the battery to terminal 30. There is a switched connection from the battery to terminal 86. You can get battery power from the same wire and then split it before it gets to the relay and switch. Let me try to explain it again. 30: Positive wire to the battery. 85: Ground 86: Wire from 86 to one side of the switch. The other side of the switch should go to a power source. Some people use the ignition so the fans can only be turned on while the key is on. The simplest way is probably straight to the battery. 87: Wire to positive side of fan

If it's connected to itself it isn't switching anything. It should go battery -> switch -> relay.

Is the switch wire just connected back to itself inside that shrink wrap? You have to have the other end connected to the battery.