calZ

Do you have some type of hookup on importing cars? I've never done it, but it seems to me the import costs would be a significant chunk of that $6k. Can you educate me on that a bit?

I'm also silently watching. I don't have much to add other than saying really nice work and that I get happy whenever I see you've updated the thread.

Those looks more like flood lights than a headlight with a proper reflected housing. What does the light pattern look like?

http://www.s1sequential.com Seems like they make them in limited production runs. They just made an announcement a week ago about a new run coming.

I was responding to you. I've read the whole thread before, and I just read it again since your comments made me think I was missing something. Nothing seemed out of order at all to me. I agree he's now on the edge of what a group buy is, but so are other very popular threads in this section that you seem to leave alone. Why single out exlifesaver when he seems to have done a really good job while being no less active than those other threads and everyone who purchased seems to be happy? Now I'll stop cluttering the thread with irrelevant posts. Sorry exlifesaver.

So in your hypothetical, don't both parties benefit? Isn't it pretty common on HybridZ for someone to have a link to a company that allows forum members to get a great price while making it worth the middle-man's time? This is done with gauges, wheels, etc. I don't see at all how that's not a win-win and have no idea why you are so consistently negative with many members of this board.

Austin, if you can make a kit that only requires wrenches to get a CD009 on the back of a L28 for ~$1k, I know I would definitely be interested. I need to replace my 5-speed anyway.

You could also do it Laguna Seca style. Put an elbow on the back that you can change the direction of. Figure out which side the sound meter is on and point the exhaust up and away from it.

https://zcardepot.com/interior/hood-release-cable-240z-260z-280z-70-78.html

Can we get more info on the dash cover itself? Did the whole thing from scratch I'm assuming? How did you make the pattern and how much stretching did it require?

If they're for a 1st gen Camaro like he said, then they would have to be these: http://trackspecmotorsports.com/shop-by-vehicle/camaro/first-generation-camaro-67-69/1st-generation-camaro-t1-hood-louvers.html

JF Customs?

Did you hire a videographer to do these or did you just have a friend that likes to film?

Borg Warner actually has a turbo match bot that you can use to size a turbo for your application. It's pretty cool and will get you in the ballpark even if you don't want a B-W turbo.

Ok, here are the 3 parts. I'll add the part numbers for the other stuff below. Nut: https://www.mcmaster.com/mv1484009750/#catalog/94855A281 Screw: https://www.mcmaster.com/mv1484009750/#catalog/90272A106 Spring: https://www.mcmaster.com/mv1484009750/#catalog/9657K327 Ball: https://www.mcmaster.com/mv1484009750/#catalog/9528K15 If the links are broken for anyone looking at this in the future, the part numbers are just the last portion of those URLs after the slash. Hopefully McMaster doesn't ever change them. The springs actually ended up being a bit light for the application, and the connection was not completely consistent. I put two bearing balls in below the spring, and that worked great. You could also just space it with whatever washer or chunk of metal you want. There's another spring option: https://www.mcmaster.com/mv1484009750/#catalog/9657k345. That might be overkill, but it would definitely maintain a connection. QuickReleaseHornPTT.zip

What format would you guys like the part files in? I made them in FreeCAD, but I can export them in just about anything. You just might lose the pad/pocket/sketch data.

To add, I think if you have one of the nice, modern horn buttons you won't need any of this. They should be designed to work with a removable hub. If you're using an old school button I don't think that's the case.

First picture is all the pieces I used. It was basically a prototype that ended up working well, so I kept it. You would only need the stuff on the right of the picture since you have a horn button to fill the space in the center of the wheel. The springs and bearing balls go in the cylinders of the piece in the upper right. Balls make contact with the nubs in the quick release, and the wire ends are held to the square nuts in the other piece that is pressed on top. I think for you I would just integrate the nuts into the lower piece. Second picture is everything pressed together. Third picture is how the bottom of the hub looks with the piece inserted. Fourth pic is the assembled wheel(minus two screws). Do you know if your hub is the 2.0? If it is, I could just put one of the modified pieces together and mail it to you. I have extra pieces because the springs come in packs of 10 and the balls packs of 100. Actually, the hubs probably have all the same center bores, so it might work for any NRG quick release.

Ah, that makes more sense. I'd still take that tradeoff if it came at a very good price. Not sure if you mind sharing what he charged or not.

Once you wire your horn in, the steering wheel won't be removable, correct? If you're interested in keeping it removable I have some pictures and CAD files you might be interested in. We have the NRG 2.0 release in our racecar, and I 3D printed a piece to go in the wheel hub that allows us to use the horn wiring as a PTT circuit while keeping the wheel removable. It would be simple to make that work for your horn.

That paint looks nice, and it seemed to get done quickly despite it being done as fill-in work. Mind PMing me the location or a website for the shop? I'll be needing paint eventually and I'm in the LA area.

There is a "cars for sale" section that you can post it in if you're looking to sell. You need to be a donating member to post there. If you post some good pictures, build info, and a price, you'll probably get more interest than you are. It's hard for people to be interested in something they don't know much about.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/British_Racing_Motors#BRM_H16

I think the car would look a lot better with some wheels and tires that actually fill the arches. The best thing about that option is that it still leaves the others open to you if the look still isn't what you want.

Anything ever come of this?