calZ

Welcome to the forum and great first post!

Changed from welding to now panel bonding?

Before removing the diff, I would check the u-joints on your driveshaft as well.

Excellent work on the switches. I'm excited to see the rest.

Sorry, didn't mean to give you that impression. I would pull it and drop it in your pickup bed/trailer with the engine hoist.

I'm in Los Angeles and have a carbed N42 still in my car that's a classic "ran when parked five years ago". It ran well, but has a couple broken exhaust studs and some leaks, so would be a good candidate for a freshen up. Im not sure on value. I believe a few years ago Datsun Spirit advertised a $900 core charge, but now you have to call them to get that info. Facebook Marketplace and eBay generally show over $1k. I'm open to offers, but i think around $1k is a fair starting point if you're interested

Do you experience any delay in the steering assist? A couple years ago(actually five now that I look) we had a discussion about this, and quite a few people complained that the force-sensing units had a delay and didn't self-centered very well.

Don't go out of your way on my account, I just got another ad for it and was curious if you had any good results.

Any updates on how this is working for you @kaibiagi?

What an absolutely idiotic clown take. You obviously don't understand scale and market and how that affects prices.

My opinion: Flares because your tires are fat and need room = cool. Skinny tires that should fit stock but spaced way out anyway = not cool. It's in the same vein as camber to me. Negative camber for better handling? Awesome. Crazy negative camber because you want people to know how much camber you have? Stupid.

You're a crazy man - in a good way.

https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/brake/brake-clutch-pedal According to this site, the pedal itself was the same from 1973 through the 1976 model, so a 260 pedal should work. I think the 1970-72 pedals would fit, but the clutch pedal would be further left than stock. The offset of the pedal itself changed when things got spread out for the larger booster.

People tend to like selling the whole pedal box rather than just the pedals. If you end up buying an entire pedal box, be aware that they switched booster sizes in 1973. I think the pedals from an earlier 240Z would swap into your box, but the booster bolt pattern means you couldn't swap the whole thing over without more changes.

Are you ordering this kit and the matching front kit? Seems like it solves your issue perfectly

10 years seems impossible. How many have you sold now?

So is the nature of project cars. They're never done.

You have to be a donating member to post in the for sale section, which is why you don't have the permissions.

I feel like the rate of work you've been doing has increased since you declared your project finished

I can't find it now for the life of me, but I thought someone on here did it years ago with the hardware for a Jeep.

Yes please

Do you know the cost different between piecemeal and just doing the whole car? I'd be tempted to just do the whole thing. All those areas are good to protect you from rocks your own tires are throwing, but my daily has chips in the most random areas from other cars throwing stuff. Plus, you'd avoid the possibility of seeing the edges of the film. I had a car that was done only in the "danger areas", and after years of sun and exposure, the edges started to lift. It looked terrible. I'm sure that was more of an issue since my car was parked outside a lot and your Z likely won't be, but it's something to think about.

He's actually a member here. @jdmjunkies.ch

Derek at Datsunworks already makes a bellhousing. They're sold through Godzilla Raceworks.

I'm not surprised 1-3 are light with how the Protunerz manifold is designed. That short side radius is too tight for great distribution. It would be interesting to see how the balance was with the new Milkfab intake. If you lived closer I'd be willing to let you put mine on for testing.