datsunlover

Ok, i just visited the JSK site.. and I don't see too much to be negative about.. there is one thing though..about the fuel rail (according to the site) *quote* "Injector O ring bores have been precision machined to .433" which is the most critical feature to allow the best sealing possible as well as aligning injectors with manifold ports for reduced stress" *unquote* In the pic, it is being measured with the top jaws of a digital caliper... IMO (as a 1st year machinist aprentice) that is NOT the way to measure a presision toleranced bore.. that 'very-near' could be out 2 or more thousansths (either way). And who knows if the person in that pic is holding the calipers even/square in the bore to begin with? Sort of like the pic of him measuring the end of the fuel injector the wrong way..he could have been out by a lot who knows?!? Im not saying the fuel rail doesnt work, but maybe it's not the best picture to prove the 'precision machining' you can do... And I have to agree a little bit with some of the others on the "I don't want to die because a part fails while driving 100MPH" thing.. Not to say I would never buy JSK parts, but there has to be solid proof that testing was done and parts will hold up in the real world. And proper measuring techniques in the pictures would ease a few concerns in my mind as well... [edit] It would apear you were typing at the same time I was.. and your latest post brings up another point I have: going to extremes to advertise a product (such as.. super glue perhaps?) is ok for advertising something that is already on the market and has a good track record already.. as for me, when something new (or a new company in this case) comes out and make grand claims and crazy 'test's of their products it makes me think 'hmm.. I dont think so..' or 'what are they trying to prove by this?'.

Hmm.. got another I6 engine to consider: Jag DOHC 4.0L from the XJ6 series. Specs I have found so far say good things to me.. 245 BHP @ 4700rpm and 289 flb of torque @ 4000rpm. And this is with the power steering, ac, and whatever else (Its a jag right?) AND these are 4080Lb cars... Im thinking with evrything stripped off except the alt. and water pump, plus a custom header/exhast and intake work, 275-300HP would be atainable.. and it would still be a 6 Cyl which would keep myinsurance company happy! There is an 88 for sale localy that I think I will check out with my trusty tape measure...heh heh.. I know someone who put a jag engine in his Z, so maybe I can get some advice/info on this subject... This just might be do-able....

Hey, I'd love to take the trip too, if I'm mobile by then of course! I think it'd be pretty cool to cruise down the highway beside the mighty V12... hey Glenn, need a wingman? My lowly I6 might not have the power to keep up to you in a race.. but I'm sure I can pass more gas stations than you!

Astor vans? Heck.. there are only about 2 billion of those around! Should be a few with good rads in any wrecking yard...my brother just scrapped an astro van too... pretty sure it had a good rad.. Doh! BTW, I've never paid more than $75 for a used rad from a wreckers.. Mind you, I only go to yards that let you pull the parts yourself. (you pull, you save $) Just a thought..

heh heh... this is hilarious guys!

Uh, yah Glenn... something like that! and I figured I'd post a pic to prove I actually do own a Z! and support the JSR team!

BTW, I got that pic from Daves list.

Ok, heres my pic. I havent checked this in a while, so sorry for the lateness of my responce In actuall fact, the stand isn't really doing much.. most of the cars weight is on the two cinder blocks/2X4 lumber just ahead of the rear end.

I'll have to see if I can find my old mascot again... I used to have this doll head on a string hanging from the miror. (back in high school) Had stringy white hair that stood straight up... Just the head was weird enough, but heres the funny thing: The face was shaped/painted to look like it was sleeping on one side, and awake on the other. So hanging from the rear view, and looking at it head on it looked pretty weird! My pals and I named it "Sigmund" , pronounced "Zigmand" (as in Freud) I'll have to get a pic and post it...

Drax: I assume you have used this system on a vehicle.. is everything included or are there hidden costs? (other sensors to buy, ect.) Moreover, can I get in on this group deal, have it shipped to me, and make it work (without any more expences) on my Z? I have a 75 280z and want to updete the FI and this would be a good setup I think... You say you need 10 of us for a discount; would this be for Z's only or can you still get the discount if ppl want differing systems? What I mean is, if you get 5 guys wanting the basic package (ex; em-4d), and 5 that want diferent/more expencive units (em-6e/msd) how does the pricing work? Does SDS just give you 20% off the total end price for 10 units, or 20% off each individual package?

Thanks guys... got a question about this though.... don't know who's car this is, but what do you ppl think of doing a frame like this? (outside the original frame rail) And are there any pics of the rear of this setup? This looks like what I want to do (saves cutting out the floor/rewelding it later) and would be easier (I think) for me as I have no hoist or rotiserie, and will be lying down to do it. What do you guys think?

Yah, about a year ago a friend of mine wanted to do that to his 5.0 stang. Apparently there is a company that makes heads you can drop right on your 302 and BAM something like 350 HP. This guy was all excited about the idea, but then he had to sell the car... and I don't even talk to the guy anymore.. kind of had a falling out.. there has to be a site with all the info somewhere.. this guy had like 10 pages printed out that he showed me about this design..

Man.. up in my neck of the woods, if I found that in the back lot of.. anywhere I would grab it up if it's cheep! If the floor is good and it pretty complete, it would be worth it's weight in gold to me! Man.. too bad it's across a continent!

Hey man, that is good news for me! The wheels are turning in my head... I've liked BMW's since I was a kid and almost bought one a few years ago. Unfortunatly the $$$ required to fix the seamingly small problems would have been too much for me to handle. (brakes, tie-rod ends, exhast, ect) So I bought an 85 200sx. The thing that has stuck in my head since then is what an amazing engine BMW makes; I wound that thing out in first and second and it was smooth all the way! Good low end and free reving. Good thing it was standard to because after shifting to third I realized the car had no brakes! A blown line in the rear that the seller 'forgot' to tell me about! Jerk. I heard the rear tires lock up for a second as I ripped it back to 2nd to slow the car. (I was only doing about 70K! ) As I recall, it had a good 200K on the spedo, and still fired up and ran great. Seamed to be a good stout 5 speed too... As for the intake, wouldn't it be possible to fabricate something? I'm sure it's been done before on a datsun.. so why not a BMW right?

Ok, before you guys jump all over me, YES I did use the search feature, but couldn't find exactly what I'm after... I am thinking of puting frame rails/conectors in my 75 280z. The floors/factory rails have been replaced, but it looks like a shoody job, and Im not too sure how strong they actually are. They arn't even straight OR paralell to ground! What I am thinking of is using 3X2" .125 thick chanel from the T/C bracket back to the rear frame. I figured I'd just put it right over what's there right now, and not cut the floor's. Is this 'do-able' or will it not work well?

I see the word "Volvo" and I have to pipe up As stated, the balence shafts give a smother running engine, and since most Volvos that got this engine were the higher end luxo' models, you can understand the need for a smooth runner. Not that the 16V engine was a slug though.. I believe it had almost as much HP as the 2.3 Turbo engines Volvo used. Personaly, I would go with the 2.3 Turbo engine, as they are reliable and for the most part bullet proof. Good strong turbos/engine, and easily modded to get some more HP. I don't know for sure, but I think the 88-89 740 Turbo models were the best motor (stronger internals/block) and I don't think the 16 valve motor was used as extensivly as the turbo... might make parts expensive. You shold try 'www.turbobricks.com' (or some variation of that) Theres lots of good info out there on the web!

As for my expirience, you'll need a new/rebuilt alternator, AND a battery. If it was running, and then died with the lights on, it was probly running on the alternator (and killing the alternator at the same time) because the battry wasn't holding a charge. This has happened to me in a few vehicles. If you replace the alternator but have a bad battery (wont hold charge) it will kill that alternator too. Same is true in reverse: Dead/dying alternator will drain a battery, and a new battery will get drained/killed. I just play it safe now, and replace both at once if I have to.

I did a search, but theres not much... anyone have info on BMW straight 6 engines? Like what years/models they are in and HP/Torque specs? I have driven a mid 80's Bimmer, and it seamed to have very good power. They ussually have lots of power options, power stearing, ect that I wouldnt drag the engine down with in my 280z. I think it would make for an interesting swap... I have always heard that BMW makes a very stout/powerfull engine, but the general upkeep of the rest of the car (electrical, brakes,ect) can get expensive; leaving the 10 to 15+ year old ones rotting away at this point... I will do some searching other places, but wanted to throw it up here for starters. I need to know which cars to look for in the local wreckers/buy+sell papers.. Anyone?

AHHHHH!!! BLASPHEMY!!! You driving your Z in the snow?!?!?!?! J/K I dorve my first Z through 6 months of a HORIBLE winter and yes, first gear is quite helpfull for emergency braking, as long as you're ready for the 'tail whip' that's coming when you do it! My 81 280zx was in a few snow banks.. but never stuck for more than 2 mins. Once I was pulled out by a Mach Z snowmobile! Hee hee.. winter is fun...

After you unpluged the ecu? Check the contacts in the harnes (corosion/breakage) and make sure its making good contact on the ecu. Usually when it dies/lunges around at 2000-2500 it's the computer having a fit EI; going into (or in and out of) 'fail safe' mode. If there is a bad conection to any of the sensors, it might have this effect. It could be the water temp sensor too, if it runs better once it's warm..

"exploding clutches and flywheels" are the reason there are 'scater sheilds' Basically a think/heavy steel bellhousing to protect the driver/pasengers legs if things go wrong. A know a guy who had a 79 camaro w/400+ HP and a 4 speed. Used to go and street race on the back roads late at night, and lost the clutch/flywheel on a launch. Lined up, put it in first, dropped the clutch at 3000RPM.... and BOOM! it went right out the passenger side floor/firewall. He got a scatter shield after that incident!.

Good thing I've got a 280z then eh? I actually looked at a 71' 240z before I got mine, but the lady wanted too much for that heap. Thanks for the responses guys.. now I gota get an MSD box. Called the ad I saw, and it's gone. Doh! Oh well, it's close to christmass... gota spend some money on the girlfriend instead of my car now!

Yup, thats what Im gona do with mine (if I ever get it finished!) Go with the white sides, red hood/roof, and blue race stripes/DATSUN logo. Im gona get pulled over every time I drive around.. but it'l be worth it! Not that the yellow is that bad...

I tell ya man, do whatever it takes.. call the trip what you will; it will be worth it! Heh heh... Thanks again Glenn, that was the push I needed to keep going on my 280 and get in rooling for the summer. It'll be a lowely straight 6 for next year, but hopefully by next fall, I can do an engine swap... My friend informed me of a Mercedes V8 that is availible for cheep... I may have a look at that.. apperently has some good HP/Torque #'s, and might just squeeze into my engine bay.. or maybe I'll copy cat Glenn, and do a V12!

Very cool man!