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Everything posted by datsunlover
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New Injectors And Still has NO POWER!!
datsunlover replied to CarJway's topic in 6 Cylinder Z Forums
If you don't have the FSM (or cant get one for a while for some reason) let me know and I can scan and send you the afm checks. You will need a multimeter and some test leads. (one of the checks requires 12V to be aplied across 2 terminals and the air flap moved to check resistance on 2 other terminals) One thing.. my book is for a 75 280z. I think it's the same afm all the way to 78, but 79+ is a newer/diferent afm. let me know man. -
Well, I am sure anything is possible, but don't know of a 'pre-fab kit' already out there... Personaly I am the DIY, or build it my self kind of guy. I would start by taking apart your brakes, and "eye balling" the new calipers next to the stock ones. Look at the mounting holes, figure out spacing, ect. Find out what diameter the Skyline rotors are, compare to someting else like... 300zxt maybe? I dono.. wit some work and thought put into it, you could make it work.
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1980-81 Datsun 810 station wagon 5 spd trans ID PLEASE
datsunlover replied to RB26powered74zcar's topic in Drivetrain
Hey, just curious.. what would a late 70's 810 be worth? Complete, running, needing restoration but drivable? Anyone have any idea? -
Ok now that this is in the right forum.... I think the transmition has had it man. It is quite common for the 5.0 Mustang to get abused like hell, and I have seen a few that are still pretty quick, but hard to drive/shift. The shift forks in the trany can get bent from ppl literaly "ripping" the shifter out of first gear and "slaming" it into 2nd, and so on and so on, ect... This eventually wears everything inside and causes the grinding "brrr" sound, and the poping out of gear. They called these "world class T-5's" but they are actually somewhat weak, when abused and eventually grenade after lots of abuse. And lets face it, you are not going to drive a 5.0L like a K-car! Lucky for you, you should be able to find a good used T-5 pretty cheep (if you need one at all!) Hope this helps.
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I think thats a little expensive... I have bought whole CARS for less than that! I'd hang on to your cash for a while man..
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New Injectors And Still has NO POWER!!
datsunlover replied to CarJway's topic in 6 Cylinder Z Forums
Sounds like the computer is shuting down the engine. There is a "limp" mode that the computer will go into if ANY of the sensors/fuel injectors go out of whack (no signal, wrong signal, whatever) and sometimes it will turn on and off while you are driving if there is an intermitent problem. This happened to my 75 280 back in the summer, and I agree: like driving into a wall! My car actually got to the point that it would idle PERFECT but would not go at all: try to take off, and it would sputter and die. I unhooked the Throttle positon sensor, and 'forced' the computer to stay in limp mode. This way, it would rev to about 25-2800 RPM and then cut out. (I know I know, not better) BUT, it was drivable. I would say... check the AFM. Run the checks on it, make sure the contacts are clean, and especialy check the FI conectors and harness. (seing as you changed fuel injectors recently) Hope this helps! -
Bends in frame rails and floor board
datsunlover replied to danman's topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
If you go back to look at this car, bring a small magnet to run over the whole car. If it doesnt stick, theres probly some body filler in it (in particular, the front end) If there was a front end accident that was fixed cheep/quick, there will likely be a thick coating of bondo/body filler all over the fenders, hood, and head light buckets. This was done to my car a few years before I got it, and what a mess it made! (mine was hit in the passenger side front) The body shop just filled over the dented metal, and bondo'd the front vanance/panel to the headlight bucket, and to the fender. It was enough to twist the front end just a bit, and flex the fender so over the next 5-6 years (until I got it) it rusted from the inside out. -
I should point out that most of my patches are just body patches (so far) and no structural areas. The floor pans were welded in before I got the car and the bigest piece I have had to weld in is only about 15" long and 5" wide for the lower rear quarter area.
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Well, heres my "list" of cars I want to build (after I finish the resto on my 280z).. but dont have the space or money to do so: 1 late 80'sVolvo 242 (thats a door gt model) with a supercharged SBC 350/4 spd, corvette rear end/suspension, ect. I know its been done, but heres the diferent part; I want to 'graft' on the rear roof/hatch section from a 245 (4 door wagon). Basicaly make a 2 door wagon similar to the P1800 series Volvo from the 70's. 2 Early 80's Toyota corolla (the RWD ones) with a turbo Supra I6/5 speed. Little car with lots of power. 8) hey Civics, lets race! 3 Mid 70's VW Sciroco with a caddy front drive V8. Be good for smoking Civics, Vetts, feraris you know... I think there would be a space issue under the hood but I bet it could be done.. I would probly just try to use the whole caddy front frame section.. 4 85-88 Nissan 200sx with a FWD supercharged 3.8/trans (GM) in the back seat. well... where the back seat is. I actually have plans scribled somewhere for this.. front K frame from a Buick or something (doner car) welded into the rear of the 200sx, there would be LOTS of work for this.. relocate EVRYTHING, build a new fire wall behind the front seats, ect.. I want to try this next I think... 4 '93 Nissan King cab with air ride (scraping frame ) suspension and big a$$ rim$. I actually own this truck right now, but its just a stock daily driver for now.. Theres more poping into my head every day... AHHHHG!!! What do you guys think? Should I get my head checked?
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I would have to say that all those questions depend on what you want to do with the motor/car.. street, drag, autocross.. ect. so as for 'the best cam duration', I think it depends on personal preference and/or the proven track record of a particular brand. If you look through an aftermarket catalog (like Victoria British for example), they give specs and aplications of all their cams, and most other aftermarket items they sell. I don't know if you could bore it to a 3.2, but I supose anything is possible.. as long as there is enough material/space in the block to do so. Something I have been told though (by a profesional engine builder in my area) is that boring out an engine does not get you HUGE hp/torqe gains; it is the head work and cam, along with the exhast that makes power.
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I have been using 22 guage for all my patches. I had a little piece of thiner stuff I tried to use (dono what guage..), but the weld just blows through it even on the lowest heat range.
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Just my $.02 here, just bolting on a S/C and pluming it in is fine.. but wouldnt it be a bit much for the L28 FI/engine intarnals to handle? Wouldn't you have to lower the compresion some how?
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You could reuse them if they seam to be in good shape.. but while it's all apart it's easy to replace them... I think I would replace the timing chain/gears for sure. Just a bit of insurance, you know? The water pump, well.. if it doesn't make noise when you spin it around, and looks fairly new, i'd just throw it back on then.
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very strange.. please read
datsunlover replied to 72zcar's topic in Trouble Shooting / General Engine
Could it be something to do with the ignition/timing or the water temp sensor? On my 280, there are two circuits for the ignition (two pickups in the distributor) and depending on the signal from the water temp sensor, it runs on one of the two (advance or redard)... just a thought.. -
very strange.. please read
datsunlover replied to 72zcar's topic in Trouble Shooting / General Engine
There may be a little cylinder type thing (dash pot?) mounted on/around the throttle body, with a vacum hose running out of one side. The other side of it will contact the throttle arm. Try disconecting it (and plug it with something) and see if the idle still jumps around when you drive it. Mine has been disconected (by previous owner) for the same problem you are discribing.. he said it was fine after it was disconected. -
Could be something to do with the clutch disk.. My 280zx did that and I was told by a transmition guy it could be the disk is off balance for some reason.. (?) or maybe a drive shaft/u-joint issue. anyone else?
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Take a look on the side of the can.. it should say what temp's its good between. A friend of mine says it should work though 50 is at the lower end of the range.. any colder and it will do strange things.
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Thats like some snow mobiles Ive heard of; they actually turn of for a split second, and then run in reverse so you can back up! And I've seen a front end loader (case I think it was..) stall, and then run backwards! I was working in a wrecking yard, so you can imagine the condition of this machine to begin with! There were no brakes left on the thing, so the Boss would just smack it into reverse to stop, and then into nuteral. It was then that it stalled and started in reverse... it was quite funny when he tried to back away from the car he was trying to pick up.. and ran right over it! Never heard such a foul string of rude nasty words come out of his mouth like that!
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I am about 1.5 hours away.. but not too far to drive back and give him a blast of $h!t if he screws me... Does anyone know his name by chance?
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Yah, me too.. I have a photographic memory, so once I take something apart, I know how it has to go back together.. but I try to put things all in one spot.. (interior screws/clips/ect in a box, and so on) cause knowing how to but it back together is no good if there are parts missing!
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260z 2+2 breaking down under hard acceleration.
datsunlover replied to akeizm's topic in Trouble Shooting / General Engine
Are you running Carbs or fuel injection? If its FI, the computer is shuting it down because there is a sensor problem. Its a 'limp' mode. If its Carbs, sorry man.. I don't know. -
So, how are my cars running (pics of spark plugs)
datsunlover replied to jmead's topic in Trouble Shooting / General Engine
Don't know if all you folks in the States have these, but up here in Canada there is an auto repair "do it your self" series of books (similar to 'Chiltons') called Haynes. Every Haynes manual has a page in it (color too!) showing comon spark plug problems and conditions. If anyone wants this picture, and can't get access to a Haynes manual, let me know and I'll scan it for ya. -
Having either fuel or spark related problem
datsunlover replied to a topic in Trouble Shooting / General Engine
That might be the problem.. some aftermarket O2 sensors are just 'one unit fits 5 different cars' kind of things, but it may not be quite right for the Nissan.. or it could have failed prematurly (also a problem with some aftermarket non-OE sensors and elecrtonics) Something else I thought of.. what kind of plugs are you using? -
Ok, well I'll look for the pages. They are kinda hard to find/read, cause it's translated (BADLY) from Japanese, but it does have the required Ohm's readings and such. Keep in mind mine is a 75, but like I said (as far as I know) the only major difference is the two pins my car needs for the fuel cut-off switch. I checked the unit I am using righ now (80-83 ZX AFM) and the resistance readings were very close to what my book (75' Z) said they should be. I'll try to get them off to you this week sometime. Hang in there man!