Warren

http://www.carfiche.com

Keep your eyes peeled Art, I have a feeling you're gonna be seeing at least one 8 second Z there. (not mine, as I can only dream of that). Warren

The meet ends on Sunday evening, around 5:00, you'd still have PLENTY of time to make the drive back to VA...might be a little sleepy, when ya'll get there, but you'd have time to get to work on Monday. Some folks do, in fact, leave earlier than 5:00, but they miss out on the raffle and prizes when they do. Warren

Just a heads up...the Saturday "pre"event gathering is NOT held at the track, but there is a 1/4 mile Saturday being held there that day, which you're certainly welcome to attend. The SEZ event itself is on Sunday. Only the meet & greet and the casual dinner takes place on Saturday. Only one or two of the SEZ attendees actually even go to the track on Saturday, but that's up to you.

Not only will you save on the costs of the materials, you'll also save on labor, since your painter will only have to physically spray the whole car twice (once for primer, once for paint) instead of three times. Warren

Go Cheap, do what I did...use only Tint Base and Catalyst...works fine, single stage. Clear will just make it harder to touch up or match should something happen to it. Alot of people think that single stage is prone to oxidation and whatnot, I say BS...as long as you keep your car clean and waxed like you should do any paint anyway, it's not gonna oxidize any faster than that fancy dancy Basecoat Clearcoat will. Colors are fine, but if you want it to look sleek, nice and uniform, just use white tint base. Your wallet will thank you big time in the end.

Hey OTM, don't forget about the flux capacitor and brakefade discombobulator.

Can't agree with you J. The pattern is too symetrical on both the head and the piston. Looks more like FOD (Foreign Object Damage). Something got sucked in and compressed between the piston and the head...notice the edge of the piston is marked too?

Yep, it's a GM CS (Current Sensing) alternator. Modding the mounting bracket was the most difficult part of the whole process, but with patience, a little pre-planning (i.e. searching on the net) and precautionary ingenuity, meaning don't just tap the bolt hole, drill it completely through and use a longer bolt with 2 nuts on the back of it, it can be done. Refer: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=115550 Keep in mind that you can choose which amperage alternator you'd like to use as GM has a wide variety available, some of which you don't even have to change the pulley on. Warren

Please tell me that you just tried them on the front before putting them on the rear, right?

Bid all you want, I've already entered $1,000,000 as my maximum bid do I hear 2 million?

Cheaper alternative...just slide a small magnet down inside the finger of a rubber glove and put it on. BINGO...same effect and no need to order anything. Good idea though.

"Your User ID will be shown only to you and the seller of the item you're bidding on. Other members will see an anonymous name, such as Bidder 1, applied consistently to the Bid History page." If you're not a bidder or a seller, you won't see the names.

dirty old man! Hey, I resemble that remark!.

Perhaps you'll like this one better... (No strap pulling here folks) http://thatvideosite.voxcdn.com/core/2626/woman_who_can_control_her_chest.wmv

Phil, I'm so glad you said "in my Dodge Hemi"

http://thatvideosite.voxcdn.com/core/3733/the_nissan_breasts_commercial.wmv

Glad to be able to provide it.

Ok, how about this one, more like what you're referring to? (From the service bulletins at the end of the FSM) Just trying to help here.

Maybe I'm missing the importance of this supposedly miraculous find, but they're all listed at Autozone's website under "Repair Manuals". Or am I missing something in the context of this post? Warren

March 2003, The paint sucks, the bra and fog lights HAVE to go. So do the Wings West Spoiler, rear louvers and center taillight. This is what it looked like as of December 13th, 2005 2005 Mustang Taillights, done in STEEL, NO BONDO Pic Taken at SouthEastern Z Shootout, March 26, 2006 This is a rundown of current and pending modifications to my 1982 Datsun 280ZX Turbo. ***Block: F54 Turbo block, vatted, steamed and repainted, Bored to 87mm with stock Nissan L28 head gasket, (from 2753 cc's to 2960cc's), Ross forged custom designed racing pistons, (similar to LZ22S) flat tops but with valve reliefs, Total Seal 2mm, 2mm & 4mm rings, LD28 crankshaft, from diesel Maxima, with race prepped L28 rods with oiling holes on top, Free floating hardened wrist pins with Spiroloc pin clips, 8.35:1 compression ratio ***Head: Completely rebuilt head with all new Nissan springs, valves, seals and everything but a new cam and rockers, Newly cut 3 angle valve seats, Refinished valve cover, wrinkle black with polished lettering, Billet aluminum oil cap, with NISMO logo, of course ***Intake: 60mm 240SX throttle body, with Lexan spacer, Jet Hot Coated, Sterling, F42 Non EGR intake manifold, gasket match ported at ALL openings, New 42 Lb Ford O-ring injectors (approx 420cc)(probably not big enough), Extruded aluminum finned O-ring fuel rail ***Exhaust: Jet Hot Coated, 2000 Black, stock turbo exhaust manifold with custom mounted wastgate flange, Custom 3" downpipe and exhaust with high flow cat (same one used with a 454), Magnaflow 14"x11"x5" oval all stainless steel muffler with 3" in and dual 3" out stainless pipes ***Turbocharger System New Garrett polished T3/GT40 "Blowzilla" Hybrid turbo, .63 AR w/Stage V GT35 wheel & 4" inlet, Greddy Profec B Electronic Boost Controller, Blitz DTTX Dual Turbo Timer X (Automatic & Manual Modes), Polished Tial 38mm wastegate with stainless flanges, Polished Tial Sport blow off valve with stainless flange, 24"x12"x3" Hybrid Super Intercooler with 3" inlet and outlet with stainless plumbing and T-Bar clamps ***Ignition and Fuel Injection: SDS EM4-6F distributorless ignition and fuel injection, Custom made SOLID fortal aluminum hall sensor mount (you could literally pick up the motor by it), SPX Fuel pressure regulator & Aeromotive billet inline fuel filter, with changeable filter ***Cooling: Griffin 26"x19" aluminum racing radiator, Stainless steel upper and lower hoses with polished stainless hose end covers, Flex-a-lite Dual 12" electric fans with built in shroud (relay controlled by the SDS unit) ***Transmission & Differential: Stock 3 speed 3N71B auto tranny, soon to be a built GM 2004R Nissan 3.70 Clutch LSD from an 87 300ZXT, B&M Hi-Tek transmission cooling system, B&M Quicksilver 4 speed ratchet shifter (when the 2004R goes in) ***Miscellaneous: 140 amp chromed GM 3 wire alternator, New factory air conditioning compressor with new dryer, (STAYING), Everything else in the engine compartment has been removed, bead blasted, polished and/or painted and replaced ***Body: Stippped to bare metal, all moulding and glass removed, All rust cut out and patched with new steel, Fresh PPG paint, Bright White MSA 4 piece Aero body kit, Style II, molded in with NO seams, New rear hatch glass with auto defogger, 2005 Mustang Taillights grafted in using all steel, NO BONDO, New windshield and stainless trim all round, 5% Limo tint on 3 rear windows, 20% Tint on driver's and passenger door windows, Sylvania Silver Star headlights with washer nozzles removed from the sugar scoops, New marker lights in the front bumper/airdam & Hyundai Excel side markers front & rear ***Suspension & Brakes: Tokico Advanced Handling Package (all 4 wheels) Looks SLAMMED to the ground...about 5" ground clearance. NO SPEED BUMPS, Thank You...hehe, Energy Suspension Performance Urethane bushings, (All bushings and insulators under the vehicle have been changed), Billet aluminum bump steer spacers installed to correct camber alignment due to AHP lowering, Techno Toy Tuning top mount camber adjustment plates in the front shock towers, Earls stainless steel brake lines, Freshly rebuilt calipers with new pads ***Interior: Stock 2 Tone Black & Silver Low Back Leather Seats, New MSA carpet (for the mean time), New factory dashboard, New factory door panels, Refinished head liner, stripped and covered with silver marine grade vinyl, Refinished rear wall panels and spare tire cover, Electroluminscent white guage face conversion, Autometer Sport Comp -30 - +30 boost guage, mounted in 2 guage A-Pillar Pod, Autometer Remote Fuel Pressure guage, mounted in 2 Guage A-Pillar Pod, Autometer Exhaust Gas Temperature guage. mounted in console where Cigarette Lighter used to be, Autometer Transmission Temperature guage, mounted in console where Stereo Wide used to be, SDS air/fuel mixture meter, mounted where "SENSOR" idiot light was, Gtech Performance Meter PRO (just for fun) LOTS of other little items not worth mentioning here. I got bit by the "While I'm At It" bug...really bad...and I'm still not finished. First pass ever, the car's and mine.

You "could" build your own FREE project page and include the hyperlink in your signature. See below. Warren

Awe, come on Jiggy, all you need to do is dry out the electrical connectors on the engines accessories, like the AFM, the injectors, the throttle posistion sensor, etc. Do this one at a time and make sure they are clean and dry. A little squirt with some contact cleaner, then a dab of dielectric grease on each connector, removed and replaced individually, and your problem will be solved. Next time, DON'T WASH THE MOTOR!!! 45 minutes and you're done. Warren (Hey, I was right about the catalytic converter shield, give it a try, save a bundle)

If you've been reading this thread from the beginning, please note that I edited my earlier post to include the fact that the specs in the FSM also state "@ 350 RPM". Nissan, in their engineering and development stages actually turned the engine over with an external device of some sort to come up with the 142 Max and 100 Min "@ 350 RPM", and as stated earlier, that obviously cannot be done with just the starter. TonyD is right on the money. It takes more than just single cycle to get the correct pressure reading. Wet tests will ALWAYS increase the compression numbers, but leakdown tests will tell you alot more about the condition of the internals. Now, getting back to the original question in the poll, there is not enough correct information provided by a simple, wet or dry, compression test to tell whether or not the problem is being caused by the rings (oil passage) or the head gasket (water jacket). NOTE: I'm assigning the rings to "oil passage" and the head gasket to "water jacket" for the purposes of this poll only.