tannji

I believe that is the California Z race kit, made by Jim Cook... dont think it is still available... but I have seen pieces and whole kits for sale on sites like Ebay.

Wow!! I get a grumpyvette post!! LOL, thanks bunches for the suggestions... I dont intend to cut many corners, in fact, I really only intend to cut some labor cost. Still pricey stuff... materials seem to have gone up a bunch since the last time I wired anything... and I havent done anything this big or all-incompassing. Should be pretty straight=forward tho, like most things its minding the details that counts.

Good stuff.... I was already intending on paying the extra for the GFI outlets and dont intend to use anything but GFI. The garage has power strung from the house, original wiring with bi-pole insulators. There is no mast or box in the garage, lol. Fortunately, this only powers a fluorescent light and the garage door opener. The plan is to drop service and meter for the garage for now, then in the spring, run a trench from the garage to the house so I can eliminate the overhead power line from the pole across the yard to the house. This will also allow me to run some Cat-5 to the garage... tho I am not certain how far away from the power line the Cat-5 should be.... I have seen a lot of networking problems end up being EMI from power sources or lines. At work, (welding supply house) They lost all their hard drives do to an ill-advised attempt to TIG some hardware in the showroom down-stairs.

Thanks for the site, hopefully I will need that stuff in the near future!

good deal on the Digest guides... forgot about those. As for the wiring and permit, I intend to do it, either solo or with help according to code, then get someone in to rubberstamp it for the permit needs. It is commonly done around here, and apparently only offends the union . Things are a little backwards and casual here it seems... my last housing appraisal by the city for taxes consisted of a 30 second conversation on the sidewalk in front of the house... and I voluntarily let them know that the house had a finished basement and a room in the attic, which the property had never been taxed for in the past. The guy even asked me if I wanted that noted in his report, giving me the option to repair the financial damage I was self-inflicting, lol. So, I intend to do it all by the book... I just prefer not to pay by the book, if you follow me... tannji

Finally getting to the point of reclaiming my garage, but need to replace 80 year old wire-on-insulator technology = ) Power company is coming in a couple of weeks to drop 200-amp service and a meter, I need to have the wiring and box ready for them to connect to. Anyone know of any online source of diagrams and guides? I am basically familiar with the concepts, but I want to do this right and be able to pass an inspection should I need to at some point. I plan on hanging several stategic fluorescent panels, along with plenty of outlets and a boom with a hanging outlet from the center. there will be 3 220 outlets on one side for welding, Air compressor and whatever else may come. I am also making some wheeled pods for fluorescent lighting for the floor. So... just looking for a wiring version of HybridZ, I suppose.... does it exist?? thanks, tannji

It very cool to pause in the midst of all our various plans to improve upon what the Z engineers put in the Z and see someone going nasty native like that. Congrats dude!

there are several guys selling them on Ebay (EDIS search) but you will have to machine the wheel. I am at about the same point, but havent gotten the measurements yet. Decided to just get the wheel and handle it as it comes. My car has been unavailable to me for a while... or I would have a better idea = ) tannji

I would think the general consensus in the MS&S circle would be that you know what you get from DIY or RS... vs some others that most havent heard of. I personally have always felt (after some hard-earned lessons, that is) that to a certain extent it is worth paying the right guy a bit more. DIY and RS both support their product... some of the newer sellers have no record or have already earned a spotty rep. If the extra few bucks is really important, it isnt that hard to learn to assemble them yourself... hundreds have with little to no prior experience. My 0.02.... tannji

Wow... I am actually surprised you had such a good impression of Albuquerque.... I was there last summer and was really disappointed in the direction it has gone since I lived there. (lived in and aound there until I was 20 or so) I still love NM in general, but would not look forward to living in the Alb city proper. Big contrast between Alb and Denver... Culture VS pop culture... architecture couldnt be more different, lol. Ironically, I liked living in Denver for the most part, traffic isnt too bad if you know the area and have some control over your work schedule, and the bubble is probably about to deflate in a big way there. All the tract housing (houses made of ticky-tacky, name that folk singer, lol) came in response to the many thousands of people who moved to Denver over the past 15 years... a lot of people made a lot of money developing horrible housing tracts, because they were cheaper and as nice or nicer than where all the implants had in various other states. (mostly Californians) I guess you could say I loved living in Colorado... and found Denver easy to tolerate, considering the overall quality-of-life, mountains, sports, ect. And Foosball. I havent played Foosball since I left, major bummer for me, lol. You could always come look at Davenport, Iowa... that would re-center your perspective for certain. Arm-pit of the Mid-West... typical River Town, high crime, no culture, horrible food, bad job morket, high humidity, cold, wet winters, hot and sticky summers, what few Z's there are are either hidden away in forgotten garages or have trees growing growing where the engine used to be. Did I mention RUST. Ahhh, home sweet home... God I need a new life, lol.

Thanks for that... I had forgotten about that thread = ) Another issue I had forgotten was moisture from the Propane flame. I am not thrilled about that... but it might be a necessary evil, unless I buy a vented model. Hmm. Back to the drawing board. tannji

I have a garage that I have to be satisfied with until I move, and I need to heat it this winter. It is 80+ years old, no insulation, and has the original wiring, insulators and all. I am dropping single phase wiring from the pole and having the meter installed. I have been looking at Propane heaters, and wanted an opinion on a unit I am looking at, or economical suggestions. I even had one offered to me, but it is 75000 BTU, with no thermostat, and I decided it was too much heater that needed too much additional fabbing to make it remotely practical. Here is one I found for 100 dollars that might work, anyone used it or have an opinion? http://www.glowwarm.com/ Well, link didnt work completely, I am looking at the 30,000 BTU unit. Also just now saw the 100 pound container for the propane model... I can get that but was hoping to use smaller containers... anyone know why they require 100 pounds?

ya, didnt see this thread til now, update please = )

Nice info on the Jeep setup.... I think I would definitely look into that if I were keeping the 350, or going auto on the 2RZ. I book-marked the TPI site, that looked to have good reference material for sure = ) I think I have a handle on how to setup the EDIS, and I have most of the parts now as well... just need to order the triggerwheel, might go ahead and have them machine it while I am at it. That would leave me with machining the pulley to make room for the triggerwheel... fabbing a bracket for the sensor, and then getting elbow deep into setting up tables in Megasquirt. Cant wait. tannji

Well.... keep in mind that I am NOT a great source, but as far as I know, you can use a TPI setup on either 350 or 305, as long as they are the same gen engine. TPI came on both blocks. Depending on your time-frame, you might want my setup.... = ) I am only Squirting it for the experience, then I am starting the 2RZ swap, so I will be getting rid of the engine, tranny, harness, ect. It has the 700r4 tho = ( As for the Distributor... that crossed my mind briefly, but I think when all is said and done, the trigger wheel on the crank is simpler and cheaper, and I am looking to get it running, get some experience tuning it, and then getting out of it. Long-term, I want to use a sensor in the tranny, using a machined flywheel, or magnets recessed in the flywheel. I am suffering from major envy of what some of our SR20DET owners have done, and how clean their installs and overall cars are, and I would like to keep my install and hardware clean with that in mind. tannji

While I AM planning on tossing a larger engine (V8) for the I4... I agree with Zeiss... the L28 is a perfectly viable choice, and you already have it. I like revs too... but higher redlines cost money... unless you start out with an engine that revs to begin with, and that will probably cost you as well. I plan on spending very little for the basic swap, but the 7500 to 8000 rpm I am looking for will just about triple my engine budget. tannji

LOL... I might have to start a new thread, I think having MS&S in the title scared the people we need away, like Grumpy or DR. Hunt. I will just measure it soon if nothing else... just impatient because I wanted to have as much of the small stuff pieced together as I could before I dig the car out of its tomb. I am surprised at how (relatively) cheap this should be... outside of the MS purchase, everything else to get the engine running is nickel and dime stuff... assuming you are starting from a complete engine to start with. I am also keeping my eye out for the right vehicle to show up in my local pickNpull... I should be able to get the new engine and tranny (not V8 = ) for under $400... and they run a wheelbarrow special there, all you can load on the barrow for $70. The guy that told me about it apparently got away with loading his barrow, then laying a hood upside down on it and loading THAT as well . Possibly my best score so far was a P4 laptop for $100... just needs a new motherboard and I am good to go. tannji

I have been searching... Does 2.45 inches sound correct for crank diameter? I found references to all SBC cranks being 2.45 inches since the late 60's... I am hoping that refers to the portion that mounts the balancer and pulley. tannji

At long last I am getting back into my dusty project. My 240 left the road with a fuel pump power short and related damage to the ECU. I havent checked as to whether the replacement ECU is also damaged... as I am going to MS&S the car to gain the basic familiarity I need before I start taking my hybrid in a completely different direction. I have most of the EDIS parts I want sourced already... but I need some trigger-wheel input. I have seen the trigger wheel mounted either behind the main pulley, or on the balancer... any idea as to the diameter of the crank at that point, and is mounting in-line behind the pulley safer or better than mounting to the balancer? I have a pulley pulling set... and I imagine the trigger wheel is mounted with a key, does the keyway on the crank-end go all the way back to the seal/bearing? (allowing me to use it for the trigger wheel, obviously) Lastly, do I need to go and have the balance of the trigger wheel checked before I install it? I have a Ford EDIS8 module, 2 EDIS4 coil packs, and will have the sensor soon, as it may come with the trigger wheel, depending on who I get that from. I can not physically get to the car atm, or I would just pull the pulley and put a caliper on it. (lazy, but not terminally so = ) I am not running one of the more common setups apparently (TPI) but if anyone in interested I could take pics and take notes as I progress... was considering this for the MS&S forums anyway.... tannji

LMAO!!! Some may not catch the reference in the dubbed sound.... It's Crazy Frog... which is quite funny in its own right, and twice as good in this context. http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-7439171952665148194&q=crazy+frog http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=3372989114591398849&q=crazy+frog

That is actually a scale model I googled. I would just take pictures of mine... but the GF has had access to the single car garage for the past 3 years... I cant get to the car, let alone take pics. I plan on taking back the garage in the next couple of weeks and getting the project underway once again.

So.... its 1989 or so and a friend that bought a Z so he could fit in with our little Z crew calls me and asks how to rotate his tires. I tell him... and regret it as I do so.... this guy should have been born with protective (restrictive?) mitts on both hands... anyway. Later that evening we are kinda cruising... my SBC 240, some 280's and another 240 with nice engine work and a weber conversion... nice little attention-getting group, pretty fun. I end up at the head of the pack slowly cruising Hempstead Turnpike (Long Island, NY) when I hear a couple of horns in the background, and I suddenly see a tire going slightly faster than my Z pass me in the next lane. WTF?!! Next I see a really nice Z overtaking and passing me, with the owner, my hopeless friend, staring at me, hands locked on the steering wheel, and mouth frozen in an obvious rictus of fear "AAAAAHH......" The best part was (or worst) he tried to stop, but the car would tip towards the empty wheel well... so He coasted to a stop... got out and said that if I would pull his car into a parking lot, he would go get the wheel. Poor guy took a ton of grief for that, and really, it can and does happen to many others. Sadly... it happened one more time afterwards... he sold the car and got a civic.

I cant get the second link with the calculator to work... staging doesnt do anything and there is no Go button. On the other link I averaged .518 over 10 runs... including 4 at exactly .518. I averaged 0.1635 on the reaction time tranq game.... I used to play a LOT of FPS league and clan matches online, that might have helped a bit... cool tool!