tannji

I am definitely going to have to look you up when I get out there, I think it is less than 3 hours down to ABQ from Aztec.... and I will certainly have small stuff I dont want to cheese together. I almost picked up a machine at auction that looked similar to that, but the note said it needed refurbishing, and something told me to lay off.... = )

ya, it is intermittent with me, but its always slower than normal, and occasionally VERY slow. I thought it was just me tho.

I cant seem to find a button or link to Chat, any idea where it is?

She's a Keeper!! LOL, great story... too funny. = )

I used CenterForce back in the day too..... and being young and dumb, I doubt it was broken in even remotely properly. I never had a problem at all. Of course, I was only 30 or 40 hp over stock... I was so noob, I reinstalled the clutch 3 or 4 times, because it was jammed or something. I couldnt get the clutch pedal to move at all. Got real good at yanking that tranny solo and putting it back in. Finally had a friend come over who had already installed one. Turns out, I hadnt paid attention to basically anyone, the pressure plate was just a lot stiffer than anything I had ever used, and I wasnt pushing the pedal hard enough. My friend never shared that story with anyone, or at least they were kind enough to never laugh at me to my face. Live and learn, even if it is the hard way, lol.

sorry, I do not, I dont think I have any finished pics of the car at all... the only ones still floating around are of the kit in trial fitting.... this was in the 80's, so documenting stuff didnt really occur to me, lol.

I had the same kit on my first 71 240... I cut a mild steel ring to the diameter of the opening and bonded it to the inner side of the opening, and bolted a household hinge to the door and the ring. Field engineered the hinge with a slight bend to the hinge pin, so that the hinge action was stiff, and kind of sprung to the open position. The stock door was not a perfect fit, so I finished it with fiberglass and extended the sides to match the sunken lip of the opening better. I was not happy with the reach into the opening tho, it was awkward, and I always wanted to extend the filler tube out closer to the door, and then finish it and seal it off from the inner body.

Hopefully they didnt take offense to the girl remark... and the paint scheme is old school street rod. Go look for OldestZGuy's car: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=101108 Not identical, but very similar.... Kinda cool to see that, for nostalgia's sake.

I'll second the opinion on Irfanview.... been using it for years, and it is very nice.

The last post in that thread was in late 2002... I found this with searching: http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread.php?t=64913 "I have been reading alot about this lately over on the freshalloy forums. They had originally started work on a ROM tuning project that they called nissdata. They gave up on the specific "nissdata" project, but continued work on similiar custom tuned ROM's for the RWD SR20's. It seems that they have a pretty in depth knowledge of the editing various aspects of the stock ECU. There are quite a few cars now using their ECU's and they are making good power. If they are able to tune the FWD ECU i think i will be making a trip to florida and selling the JWT. Dont get me wrong JWT is great and makes things very easy for us in terms of easy tuning. However, I feel that there is a great deal of power to be had if timing and fuel curves are custom tuned to a certain vehicle rather than putting out a stock program for all to use." I didnt find a current link, but it appears to be a tuned or edited rom chip for the stock ecu.... and would probably need custom attention to work in the Z?

Bump.

WOW! I am a fan of the (mostly) stock Mustang exhaust note, but that was an experience...! That guy must drive with somewhat of a chip on his shoulder... how could you not with that barrage coming out your left cheek? lol

Check this out for a crazy hybrid involving a 1UZ.... http://72.14.207.104/search?q=cache:0JlAp7kGhfUJ:forums.toymods.org.au/index.php%3Ft%3Dmsg%26th%3D59059%26rid%3D%26S%3D699828d1026fae8c3f88235775ea31bb+1UZ+turbo&hl=en&gl=us&ct=clnk&cd=13&lr=lang_en&client=firefox-a

buy 2, place 1 inside your lip, and then hold the other just ouside your lip, maintaining at least 1/4" distance, and then report back to us = ) PS, lock your teeth closed, if you orient the magnets incorrectly, you will be asking about health risks from a bi-polar gut. Although, this could make for some fun experiments, or entries to Americas Funniest Home Videos.....

Thats great, nice reference tool, thanks! Well, the 3RZ is square bore/stroke, the 1UZ is just square. Just under 26 inches in all three dimensions. I am going to run out and do some measuring on the Z, will just require some digging... our little one car detached garage has two funtions; it shelters my Z, and it hides whatever the GF doesnt want to see.... Gollum, Ya I noticed that most of the real performers were FI... but I am anly looking for ~400hp anyway. I want to be able to drive it comfortably like a daily driver, and I am not shooting for a drag record of any type. To be honest, if I ever were to start running 1/4's, I would probably find a HP level I was comfortable with and just concentrate on handling and traction. I like the fact that people were hitting 400hp at about 10PSI or so.... that would be easy on the engine, and a little easier on the wallet.

hmm, sounds like approx. 26 inches, front to rear. I will go take a peak in the 240 engine bay tomorrow... I did an hour or so of reading in the 1UZFE.com site, plus links. I am impressed, I might be able to get the feel, performance, and engine position I want with the 1uz, and the cost trade-offs might be favorable as well. I like the fact that even tho its a V8, its only 4ltr, and the bore and stroke is less than the 3RZ too.... plus, I wouldnt be putting as much money and effort into lightening the drive train. Drive train is already nearly optimal, and you could probably get by with lightened turbo pistons and a light flywheel. I also like what I read about tearing down the engine, and ease of various tasks when working on it. Really, the only downer is that I would lose the inline, crossflow aspects of the 2/3RZ that had me excited. Its also cool that I could get by with 10 or 15 less PSI boost, and still be right where I want power-wise. BTW, when I am googling, and some site wants me to register, I can often just look at the google cached page and get around that.... stumbled on some interesting conversations in the gaming world that way... = )

Gollum, being you have looked into the 1UZ more, any idea on how long it is? Being it is smaller displacement than a chevey, and I have read several comments that it was designed to be a compact V8, and people rave about its smooth idle, pull, and even smooth top end... I am kinda thinking about it as a fallback option if I dont do the 2RZ. I dont like the fact that I would be dealing with a V-block instead of the I-4, but everything else about it is nice, and would be easier to get a smaller engines feel, as well as better revs for less cost.

If the granite is Zero grout and a relatively neutral color it would be the way to go. The biggest mistake I see in home on the market is too much personalization and customization. People assume that since the room is perfect for them, and done with top dollar mats, everyone else will love it too. Anyone that is experienced in home projects will take one look at a house and start figuring costs on replacing unusual colors or features. when selling, always do upgrades with all possible buyers in mind, keep it neutral, and avoid making big statements. People EXPECT to spend additional money to "make it theirs", and will pass on a home that will require too much money on undoing your tastes.

I just ran across an old gaming buddy who has been out of touch for a couple years... and he is now single and driving a truck/trailor car transport for a living. He normally goes through a broker, but also accepts direct jobs. He just quoted me very reasonably for an Iowa to New Mexico move, and might be very competitive if you are only shipping the car. I am not sure if his 35 footer is covered or open bed, will ask. PM me if you want an estimate.

Thats good to know, I thought the Supras had a getrag tranny. Looks like some for searching is in my future... = )

I have been told that the w58 is the way to go, that the next better tranny would either be the 6 speed out of the Supra, or something even more pricy and less friendly to drive around town. Isnt the 154 a truck tranny? I think it is a little lighter duty than the w58, and unless specifically from an appropriate car, it would be geared wrong. The w58 should be good to around 350-400hp, as long as you dont hook up and are kind to it. What are your plans for the 1UZ-FE? NA, or turbo, ect... need some details! = ) There are one or two others here considering the swap, and I would do it if the 2RZ doesnt pan out for me.

I was hating the humidity in NC, but I was from NM, so it was a big difference. Depends on what you are used to, or acclimatized to recently. I rather like NC in general, lots of family history there, including one of the Borden families "Summer Homes", which now a historic site, as well as a pretty nice B&B. There is a bit of a clannish or stand-offish attitude to some of the locals, but I actually kinda enjoyed it... as I was "with" locals, I almost fit in. If you like Sea Food, fishing, racing (left-handed racing, that is) college basketball... and dont mind some bugs, humidity, and the occasional hurricane, its a nice place.

I will agree on U-Haul/Ryder.... Ryder is the way to go... decent rates, mileage is what will drive the price up. Sell as much as possible so you dont have to go with their largest truck, but by the same token, I wouldnt tow a vehicle with any of their smaller trucks. I only have 2 minor things to note with Ryder.... I spent 800 miles or so fighting the drivers side rear view mirror with Duct Tape, thing kept folding in to the window under wind pressure. Pulled into a truck stop to get the tape, went out to find the guy in a U-Haul next to me doing the same darn thing to his. Neither one of us was in any mood to laugh much.... it funny now tho. Also, the flat-bed trailors are safer and all around better in my mind, but there should be a little sticker on them that says "Do not exceed 45mph"..... !! My first trailor did not have this sticker, and I didnt see it on the second one until I was unloading it to be returned. Upon discovering this little tidbit, I had a quick flash-back to the truck convoy I led through much of Nebraska... at nearly double that speed..... Also, if you plan on exceeding 45mph ( I did for almost 2000 miles) check the wheel straps every time you gas up. I hit some unanticipated rough road at about 65mph, and could see my Subaru bouncing agressively on the trailor. I pulled over to find the straps loosened and the car inching over on the trailor.... Not Good. Properly cinched down, the car didnt budge, even at what was apparently unsafe speeds. Little dumb stuff, Load heaviest items into trailor first, and then delicate items near heavy items in the front of the truck. Stuff in the rear will be more inclined to bounce around, and should be tied down and packed accordingly. If you decide to take an extended nap on the road, your car on the trailor will most likely be more comfortable than the truck cab. I took a nap in my trailored car in Wyoming, and scared the crap out of some kids who for some reason wanted a closer look inside the car.... they didnt stick around to talk about it.

Server took a dump yesterday, lost a few hours worth of posts......