tannji

Interesting point... I would love to see some testing on this, or even an adjustable subframe allowing for testing and extended tunability. One thing that would concern me immediately tho is the driveline angle...

I just had my 3rd day of production MIG welding class yesterday, using a $50 Harbor Freight auto helmet with Zero problems. I have a filter range of #9 thru #13, tho we leave it on #10 for the MIG work we are currently doing. I can see good detail on my weld puddle, and it has not flashed my eyes once so far. I am a big believer in wearing a beanie now, tho.... We practiced doing some welds improperly (over-sized gap, wrong angle, dirty weld, ect) and I caught a fair number of flying spatters right on the crown of my skull.

I have it on good authority (aquaintance when I was a kid) that while it may seem like a good idea to rig CS gas canisters inside the car, there are a couple good reasons not to.... including trying to drive your own car while under the influence. That mod got removed as soon as he sobered up... just wish I could have seen it = )

Vildini also makes the engine cradle for the SR20DET swap.

Sweet!! That looks so nice... makes me wish I was going that route... but I have seen a couple pics of 1UZ's and 2RZ's spiffed up and powder coated, looking almost as nice. Good luck with the build!

Ya, I hear ya with the tires, but it has been my experience that a quality narrow "wet" tire will beat anything else on a Z. I fought my Z's on Long Island until I figured that out, and Bridgestones or Pirellis made a huge difference. Dont know that I would buy the same tires now, but back then, on my budget, that was the way to go, and as a bonus, they looked very nice on my stock steel rims.

Only thing I have to say is check the auction end date......

It is flaky on showing threads I have already read as well... I can live with it (of course, lol) but it used to work.

Good to hear... I will go with the cheaper one then. What about the Lincoln WeldPak 3200HD? seems to be similar to the 175, except it is a 120 input instead of the 220, and almost $200 cheaper. Thinking I would get that to learn on, then go good quality later.

They use the ambient noise...

I just reserved the last spot in a new local welding class, go to sign papers tomorrow. This class is kinda set up by John Deere, with the intent of hiring the people who meet their standards afterwards. The class leans towards Mig, but I think we cover some tig as well. Kinda pricey, but it is accelerated and has a high probability of a decent job at the end... and comparable credit classes would end up costing as much or more. Looking at grabbing the $100 welding helmet at Harbor Freight, anyone used these? I can get a better one later, unless this one is a waste right off the bat.

At one time I had both a 280ZX and a lightly modded L28 280Z. The 280 had the CF2 clutch and the light FW, ZX was stock. I dont think I ever got out of the ZX and into the Z without stalling it. Sure makes you feel a little goofy in front of spectators = ) It was easy to stall in normal driving, but I hardly ever did, other than when switching between vehicles. I consider it one of the higher impact mods I did, and one of the most enjoyable. It FEELS like you just woke up a little demon the first few times you drive it. I also had to drive the car with a blown out slave cylinder for a day, and rev-matching to shift without the clutch was a breeze. I have missed that car for 15 years now...

Cheapest I have seen the Dynasty 200DX is $2500.... they average $3000 and up tho.

It worked fine for me, no pop-ups.... what browser are you using, and do you have a pop-up blocker?

The 175's also go on Ebay for about $650 with out the extras... may be worth the price at Cyberweld to get a package deal.

Ya, I was about to reply but you beat me to it. I have been in the position many times of having to determine a price for a product or service... and the problem is, most people make the mistake of undervaluing their time. $250 seems a reasonable price to me for what is being delivered, jigged or not. Even the machinist/fabricator likely has to decide between the hassle of this project or declining it for one with higher returns. Were I not going a different route, I would pony up for this part now, and still may at the higher price, to use until my long-range mods come into play. Thanks for taking the time to try and give to the community.

Bump?

OMG! lol, he IS an Aussie!

Yeah, I am going to agree with Mike, if ya have the guts, paint the flares like you did the rims. I also think it needs to be lowered, or else go with 18" rims, which would obviously be impractical for any number of reason, lol.

So, given your summary, if I were to use a Phenolic Spacer between the head and the Plenum, I could probably run the IAC in the plenum? And as far as the H2O/Alchy injection, if indeed it will damage the IAC, next best spot for IAC would be in a Phenolic Spacer between the plenum and the throttlebody? For my application with the crossflow 2RZ, I dont have exhaust mani under the plenum, so I am thinking I would be able to get away with something like this. I am just a little confused on how you can run the IAC before the injection, and not have problems with the sensor temp versus intake temp due to the H2O/Alchy injection?

The pics are kind of dark... so its hard to tell... but it appears you have the sills, dam, and rear valance flat black... in a couple of the 3/4 shots it looks like you do, and the flares looked good to me. I think if the pics were lighter and this was more apparent, and the white tape wasnt visible, it would look better. I like it in general, I think... but I think if there is that flat black area it helps.... otherwise they might look better in a lighter gunmetal or chrome grey that would compliment your rims.

Firing the injectors all at once is actually ok. The main areas that are improved by sequential injection are Idle and Cruise, and we are not talking huge improvements or all-out necessity here either. MS is capable of doing most of the things any other stand-alone is, with less cost, and probably a little more work and learning required by the installer. If you are capable of installing and tuning any other system, you will probably be just as qualified to use MS.

Two of us in now, water is pretty fine....

Ya, I have seen quite a few around the 400+ mark... but I havent seen anyone doing it with daily driving, abuse, ect over an extended amount of time, and the enjuku car is track-only, isnt it? I love the SR, but if I were going that route, I would either go with stronger parts, or at least plan too at some point, so I could have the peace of mind. Personally, I hate driving something that has a major unknown like that hanging over my head. Most of the mods I will do to the 2RZ will be overkill mods for durability, whether it was strictly needed or not, because I want the insurance. In fact, I am going to try out the 2RZ for that reason specifically.... otherwise I would go SR.... I think it is sexy in every way. Alex's and Amir's cars are pretty much exactly what I want my car to be, as far as drivetrain goes. Hopefully I can duplicate that with the 2RZ.

Me and a buddy discussed this in the 80's, due to his ghetto swap having about 200 ft/lbs too much torque for his stock chassis. Fortunately, we tried getting in the window before he could lay a bead... Although it pretty much sucked all the way around, the biggest problem was the steering wheel. Of course, his next idea was to cut the roof off....