zboi

These are not just bare heads, but unmachined heads. And it's just one not a pair. Yes inflation has been ticking up substantially, but not long ago you could get a pair of assembled ls3 heads for $800. Derek came in here to try and stroke himself for a ten year celebration, but let's all be real this cylinder head was made for himself. Dude wants to keep it for himself too.

Don't fool yourself man, nobody has this head, it's just a talking point.

You ever think about liscensing or giving the design out to a real head manufacturer? Its been so many years thay we have gotten to the point that L series engines are disappearing and becoming less and less popular, and you have only sold 22. You haven't actually done anything tangible for the community. Now if a real company made some heads like this for about the $1000 they should cost, then the world would change.

Ooof 40 and 80 are really bad. Bad results wet would point to broken/pinched ring, but if your really lucky a sooted up ring. I used something called b12 chemtool in my cylinders when I got the motor. It had been sitting outside at the previous owner's place and got some water in the intake. To my surprise it cleaned up perfectly and had 135-140 compression on all cylinders. Valve sticking would be very obvious to spot with the valve cover off, you would see a valve noticeably lower than the rest, unlikely to be the issue though.

Most likely thing to be leaking is the wastegate if it is a cheapo one. Next thing would be to check the blow off valve, normally they are springed at 6psi by default. Depending on what kind of muffling your doing, you should be able to hear the turbo spooling up and screaming.

I'll repeat myself one last time, the issue is with power to the unit. Look at the symptoms, all the outputs from megasquirt are cutting off at the same time. Check your powers, check your grounds, check your relay, use your brain.

You need to be pulling a power wire straight off the battery to the ECM, and then another power wire from switched 12v.

Ok, so heard a clicking sound which was at the same time your tach signal cut too (RPM needle dropping instantly). Is the clicking the fuel pump relay or something else? The tach signal is coming from the megasquirt ECM right? If yes then this is the power to the whole unit cutting on and off. Either from bad power/ground or faulty ECM.

Chinese .63 A/R t04E with the billet compressor wheel. https://www.ebay.com/itm/174278894818

Got everything tuned up a few months back, the car runs great, the power feels like its strongly in the 300s, but I can see that the cylinder head is holding the motor back. Quite sure there is detonation, as my computer keeps thinking there is, and the power is not really increasing at all above about 14psi. I think I will add a flex fuel sensor and try adding some e30 or something. I don't have enough injector to go very high on the ethanol content. Then again, it is quick enough as is. All in all I'm pretty impressed in how much this motor woke up with this setup, the turbo spools so quick that even off idle it feels like a much bigger motor.

Those AFRs are both way off. Most of what your saying makes no sense, and if you don't see that yet you really need to read more of the docs of tuning and megasquirt. I'm pretty sure your just way off with your megasquirt tables.

You sure that is controlling the fuel pump? I would expect it to control the injector instead. Typically the ECU will just command the pump on and off. I've only seen pump duty cycle controlled on really advanced setups. Do you have a fuel pressure sensor somewhere to monitor? Also DFCO shouldn't be used at all with a manual transmission, unless again you have a sophisticated system that can tell what gear the transmission is in.

Can you share your ignition timing chart?

None of those upgrades are worth it. The car will still feel slow after all that unless you go way up on displacement or turbo. That said you can do just the turbo and none of the other things and the car will actually be fast. I spent about $1500 to turbo my engine, check my build, I got a lot done on that budget. You'll end up spending much more than that for much less power NA. That said, I liked my car more when it had the LS, and the LS swap is pretty easy.

You would be better off tying into the bolts on the cold side for your attachment point. That will drop a lot of heat too. Or you could try to use the two bolt holes near the top of the block if you have those. I used those for knock sensors but they would work good as a mounting point for the turbo

@toffee You know you can just do an image search to see where the engine sits, but spoiler it is behind the crossmember. I don't know why this matters so much though. The main thing I don't like about the VQ is the intake manifold with the rear exit, which means you have to chop off your factory hood latch and fit in some other form of latch instead. A turbo L-series will make over 300hp, but all the wear item parts on the L-series are becoming way overpriced. The LS family is the best for the money by far, and the arguably best manual transmission in the world is what bolts to them natively. Also you can fit an LS and TR6060/magnum in the car with the only modification to factory metal being some clearance of the stock transmission crossmember ears.

Does anyone run a knock sensor, particularly with a turbo car? I run two in the two holes at the top of the block, and get a lot of knock retard at higher rpms and higher boost. Its showing some pretty extreme retard, but the way it is pulling it at higher RPM under no load/boost makes me think that this is false knock. I see no physical signs of knock, and don't have any audible knock. I've attached a spark retard snapshot along with the final spark advance table to go with it. I've read of folks running more timing at the same boost levels, but then again I've read of plenty of folks blowing head gaskets too. I'm running on 93 octane pump gas. This is a stock n42/n42

For closure, they are the same. My sensor was reading 200M Ohms due to corrosion between the sensor body and the nut.

Is the coolant temp sensor for the gauge on an l28 compatible with the 240z gauge? My temp gauge no longer shows anything after attaching it to the L28 sensor in the thermostat housing.

Looks like the motor is okay after all, 5 of my coils were on their way out and causing some misfires especially in boost. This must have been washing the cylinder and increasing blowby. A set of 6 coils for $60 and things are looking great. Now my VE tables need readjusting, but then dyno.

Got this back together again. Lash checked and adjusted this time, lesson learned. Still smokes in boost, so looks like this motor's rings are just not up to the task of holding much boost, odd because it makes good compression across the board. At least the oil leaks are gone. Thinking I should sell this motor and find a lower mileage one, this one would be great NA.

Well I pulled the head, fixed the gaskets, ported it a little and thought I may as well slap some new valves in because there was a couple suspicious looking ones. Got it all back together and fired up drove for a minute and had low power and some clacking. Looks like those new valves either had some inconsistencies in stem length, or the lash pads were wore into the old ones, I found three lashpads popped off when I pulled the valve cover, 1 rocker arm sideways, and one valve lock popped out from that sideways rocker arm. I didn't think that a new set of valves would cause so much problems, but guess my luck sucks. I noticed quite a bit of play in other lashpads too. I should pull the head again, but mannnnn I dont want too. That sideways rocker has me scared.

Anyone know if some off the shelf beehive springs that's will work? I tried finding one with what spring parameters I could piece together, and this one seems like it will: https://briantooleyracing.com/btr-ford-2v-modular-spring-set-550-lift-sp005-16.html The retainer is another story.

Seems fine, its the right size you need right? ENGINE PISTON KIT -- .030 OF AN INCH; COMPRESSION RATIO: 7.4:1 86.1MM Cast pistons should be cheap.

Yep I got smoke on cold starts, and the car is hard to start after sitting. Also seen oil on spark plug threads. I had gotten a felpro gasket set for the timing chain job I did, so may as well pull the head and replace all those seals. It will at the very least stop the oil from getting all over the engine bay and onto my header.