slown280z

I'm currently at 10psi with stock everything except Megasquirt. I shimmed the pop-off valve at 12psi. I finally got the car running nice, with a 45gph fuel pump and stock injectors at 12:1 AFR, the stock injectors are very close to 80% duty cycle, which many consider the safe limit for injectors. I'd say be safe and keep it at 10psi until you get bigger injectors and a I/C. I've had no problems with the stock bypass, though on another car I would get surge when we added a big I/C (and that's when I added an aftermarket BOV).

Which truck motor? Some yes, others no.

I think you might be running a tad too much timing. 1 range colder plugs, a 180deg thermostat, and a good coolant system go a long way with keeping ping at bay. Make sure your cooling system is up to snuff, run higher octane gas, and pull a few degrees of timing.

Since it sounds like "a lot of air" but no-go, check for vacuum/boost leaks.

A guy in town swore by this stuff called "the Right Stuff". It's a silicone type of goop that is actually made for using as valve cover gaskets and oil pan gaskets. Several people I know have used them with amazing success. Maybe give that a try? It comes in a silicone gone type cartridge as well as one of those self pressurized deals.

I think the biggest issue is the sump. I know there's a few motors that came mid sump, but it seems the majority are front sump (bad unless you want a custom crossmember).

There's a lot of companies (Tokico for one) that won't honor warranties if it's not in place.

What's going to happen to your Z?

Are you sure the trans bolts up to the FWD block? I know for one your intake will be facing the wrong direction. Also, the people that do this swap normally use the RWD version which bolts nicely to the SR cradle(s) you can buy. I think you're on your own as far as getting mounts and parts.

Another possibility is to temporarily disable it and download it. Another one is to add the msextra site as "safe." Another is to stop using such intrusive and almost insulting piece of software. Call their tech support and ask why it's block, and how to unblock it if you must keep using it...

Sounds like a bearing inside the tranny, possibly the input shaft one. Think of it this way, in neutral, clutch pedal out, it makes noise, the input shaft still spins in neutral. Clutch pushed in, the input shaft no longer spins, and no more noise. A worn pilot bushing can make for choppy clutch engagement as the input shaft deflects a little bit. A worn throw out bearing makes noise when the clutch pedal is pushed as that is the only time it is spinning (when it contacts the PP).

Make sure you aren't bypassing the throttle somehow.

I think it costs enough to where if you're going to be pushing a decent bit of power you should get the 300zx trans, unless you can find a G-Force gearset.

That's what I like about this place, I rather strain my mind trying to help with a problem then have my eyes bleed from trying to decipher a paragraph.

You're not going to get far without a manual. Pick up a manual, in fact, you can get the factory service manual free online somewhere (carfiche maybe?). Other than all the hoses and emissions gear on the tank, it's held on by two straps.

Talk to this guy: http://www.graytechsoftware.com/garage/maxima.asp

Are the strips one piece or is the "head" welded on? Looks nice!

You know these are available new for cheap right?

Nice! I was just thinking about this project and was wondering how it was doing! Also, vids once it's running!

Q22 and Q23 are for a VR sensor.

Joela, you shouldn't be using the narrowband output with the MS. It lacks the resolution to do proper tuning. Change it back to the preffered LC-1 configuration of 10:1-20:1 AFR (0-5v). Anything less the 10:1 isn't useful on our engines.

Did you setup the WBO2 right? I don't know if it has changed, but before you had to reprogram an LC-1 (I think 0v=10:1, 5v=20:1 AFR, which is NOT default by Innovate), then setup MegaLogViewer to Innovate 0-5v. This setup does not register anything lower then 10:1 AFR.

Even the TPS is the same! But they only use the contacts on the idle side. The only reason it would feel "faster" is because from an engine standpoint you'd be hitting "WOT" before you're actually mechanically at WOT.

Also, BRAKING stats are done with practically no skidding. The fact that you just locked them up makes them further irrelevant.