slown280z

Look up the differences between the GE and GTE. If I remember correctly, the GTE is a LOT beefier. It's my understanding that this motor is kinda like a truck motor. Low revs, high low end torque. I bet it will cost you more money to get 200-250hp out of one of those then the good ol L series. Few posts have seen that even though these motors are DOHC, the heads don't really flow all that much comparatively.

I don't think there's a way to do this without lots of fabrication. If you're set on that RPM, why not get a Busa motor, stroke it, and adapt it to a car trans? It'd probably be cheaper then doing an SR that can survive that RPM.

It also doesn't have a wastegate on it, so you have to run an external gate.

You guys have me looking for one... The allergy season this year (especially with the high winds we've been having) have been crushing me slowly...

Holy crap! Engine found for my old F1 car replica! WoW!

Sell them, put some decent halogens on it, then ditch the car, that should leave you with close to $2k to get a better Z (like not a ZX!).

I'm pretty sure that a fully balanced SR crank with a VERY nicely worked head (like TOMEI shimless buckets and a nice cam setup) and proper timing components (plus rocker arm "retainer/guide thing" to prevent them from popping off) are known to survive 9k plus RPM. How high are you thinking about going? Also, L4s don't have to deal with as much crank harmonics as L6s which is probably which they can rev high initially with a longer stroke. Don't SR16VE's rev 8k (or higher) stock?

I know the Innovate LC-1 has 2 outputs, you can have one set up as a narrowband output for the stock ECU and program the other to work with your aftermarket one.

Congrats! But sorry to thread jack, but is your FJ20ET car running FJ 280z? I wouldn't mind doing a trek up to Phoenix to see it!

Check the dashlights/glove box fuse. Parking lights run on the same one I believe.

3in straight pipe if you want agressive. I think it sounds absolutely amazing at high RPMs, and at idle, nothing else quite sounds like it (on land anyways, cuz it sounds like a boat!)! Also, 3in to a Magnaflow 6in body straight through is leaps quieter but still sounds great!

I've heard of people "unsticking" their injectors by connecting a 9v battery for a short bit over and over again until they click. Key wording: short bit. I think the injectors run at 5-6vs so it's not a good idea to keep the battery connected long, as you'll burn up the solenoid.

^^You don't even have to do that, you can get MicroJolt (I think that's what it's called), it's an ignition controller built around the megasquirt hardware, but it's way smaller. Then you can run EDIS-8 and get rid of the damn opti!

Zonda Cinque. The road going version of the Pagani Zonda R.

If it's meant for projectors it's meant for projectors. Otherwise they will scatter too much light and glare oncoming drivers.

Why not just adjust the coilovers? Or can you not lift it to make those adjustments? If that's the problem, make custom made progressive ramps out of wood till you can fit a jack underneath it, then readjust the coilovers.

I've seen a few made out of stainless that never broke.

^^^ That and the ZX places the rack opposite of where the Z one is.

What was your 60ft? Did you end up running twins or a single turbo?

Looks amazingly sick! What coilovers are you running?

If you want this part MADE out of basically any kind of metal, I know someone that might be able to cut it out on CNC machinery. How much were you looking to spend?

I've ran across a working one on the net on a Mustang, but it was running either E85 or E100 (don't remember which) and it burns much cooler then gasoline.

Just an observation, but don't most trans adapters run $500+ (and that's with a production run)? If that's the case I'd try and find a bellhousing, that way if you keep munching transmissions it won't be an extra step to replace. Considering 1JZ R154 bellhousings are considered "rare" and go for about $450, I'd think the RB bells would go for less. But maybe I'm way off base... Awesome write-up Phil! Is it going to be black again?

That's really bad for your turbo, as it was probably overrevving since it had no pressure to keep the RPMs from building up. I've seen the a similar spacer as posted used and works good. It's not the best way to route a wastegate, but it works. I believe the have T4 flanged ones as well.

It doesn't matter, but it makes for nicer wiring if you follow a specific way of wiring them. Stock is +12v side nearest the radiator (I think...).