slown280z

You don't need to take it off to shim it. Just drill out the top rivet. When it's apart you can either tap it for a bolt, or what I did was cut a groove in it for a locking ring. Also, it takes quite a lot of force to remove it if that's what you want to do. It's a metric size I believe.

The biggest issue is FWD SR20s do not share the trans bolt pattern with the RWD ones. Since you'll be adapting a RWD trans, why not go with a much stouter 300zx/Skyline 5 speed trans?

L6s will start and idle with the plugs 180degs out. You didn't say where you checked the CHTS/AFM. I was too vague, I meant at the ECU connector. If the AFM was "jumpy" it could be bad spots on the carbon trace. Also you could have fixed the problem and never known since your plugs could be fouled.

If I remember correctly, that modification only worked for Wolf EMS. If you want to run megasquirt with it, you need to make the outer ring a "X"-1 wheel of a multiple of six either by filling in the correct number of slats in the 360 deg wheel or having a custom one made. Or if you have an MS2-Extra setup, there is alpha (possibly beta+ now) code available that is capable of reading the new-er Nissan trigger wheels on what I believe is the leading edge which will let you run COP. You could then modify the trigger wheel onto the CAS or run a CAS from those cars.

Tuning material I've read (such as the Megasquirt tuning manual) claims that turbo car's aren't as susceptible to performance changes due to altitude because their volumetric efficiency stays pretty consistent due to the turbo's back pressure. I could see this being a problem on a turbo with a large exhaust turbine though.

How bad is it broken? Have you tried seeing if it is repairable?

From the installation sticky...http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=88246 Right under your nose!

Are you sure your plug wires aren't 180deg out? Also, once you foul the plugs in an L they don't like to work right again. Check the head temp sensor as shown in the fsm, do the AFM tests while you're there. Fix whatever is wrong, put in some new plugs and try starting it.

Don't forget injectors! On a 12.3:1 AFR tune with a 42gph fuel pump with stock injectors I was pushing an 80% duty cycle at WOT. And that's about as far as you'll want to push injectors. Size your injectors according to your power goals.

Please post the light cutoff pattern when you get them installed! They look awesome!

What does your timing and afrs look like? What's "low boost"?

Get a carb'd intake/exhaust gasket. The holes should be there and tapped already.

I think this only applies dusk til dawn. During the day it's OK. Looks GREAT! I wonder how'd they'd show up on tinted covers.

Does it really have to be machined? A local machine shop has this huge true belt sander that they true big flanges on. They've done 2 exhaust manifolds for me, maybe try asking if they can true the flange instead of "machining" it.

N42 isn't siamesed and usually has thicker cylinder walls making it better for a stroker build aiming for a lot of horsepower (especially a turbo stroker).

Ah, ok, it was the J&S Knock Guard that I was thinking about. I thought a few people on here were running them on their Wolfs. What I'm wondering about the cooling mod is that if it wasn't performed, then wouldn't the HG have failed before ring damage on the last cylinders?

Scrub with detergent, then use a power washer to get it off. If there's still spots/residue, I've had good luck with the gummy/liquid type of oil "lifters".

Not a "might as well", you SHOULD check your bearings for burnt grease, scoring, or other defects. If they are fine, you have to repack them with fresh bearing grease. This only applies to the fronts by the way...

Are the spikes bad enough to warrant changing it to the turbo? Also, if you have an electronic boost controller, if the signal wire is on the manifold, it regulates the pressure that the engine is seeing, not the turbo. Also, I agree, wouldn't a vacuum source close the actuator?

ktm, were you using the knock addon module (the name escapes me now) with the Wolf? It seems like you and x64v have had troubles with munching rings as well now that you modified the cooling track.

Freshen up the head on the turbo motor and put in on the NA block. Build the turbo block up with forged internals/bearings etc. When your addiction to boost destroys your NA block/pistons, swap the built up bottom end in.

Other then your wallet if you knock a sensor loose and foul them. Good luck getting them clean afterwards. (Copper NGKs are whats generally seen as "best" for these cars)

It would be even worse on a turbo motor. It's all about exhaust velocity. The glasspacks have huge louvers that create turbulent airflow irregardless of which way you put it on. Good "resonators" (like Magnaflows and Dynaflows) not only do they use stainless packing that doesn't burn out, but they are not louvered, rather they have slats cut out into the packing so as to not impede airflow as much. I think that AFR curve actually looks pretty decent. I have seen others mention (most noteably Tony D) how much fuel you can pull and timing you can add past the torque peak on these motors. Also, 12.5:1 AFR is still pretty good for power making past torque peak.

I can't remember exactly but I'm pretty sure it's supposed to "turn off" at WOT to get the most power. I could be completely wrong about that though (but I know newer cars do this)... SO. What you could do is put a check valve on the vacuum line the does all of the controls coming out of the firewall near the heater core connections. This will work assuming it works right the rest of the time.

I'm pretty sure you can drill CF, you just step up to size and let the bit do the work (and taping off both sides would help). You just have to realize that it will be a weak point of the part now.