slown280z

What's nice about 280z's is that the EFI harness is completely seperate of the main harness. Another sweet part about it is that removing it still leaves the power sources and connectors for an EFI relay, and the fuel pump (which you will need a relay for, as stock they turn on with +12v applied, and MS handles the FP relay by grounding it). MSing these cars is total cake.

Oh god... What stupid ranting... Can a mod clean this thread up? Back on topic, show me so dropped in HID bulbs in crappy housing with a real HID cutoff like this: I've never seen any proponents of drop in HID bulbs post their cut off.

In case anyone cares: http://www.club-s12.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=25819 Something like this would be easy to replicate in the Z I think...

That's more on the clutch type and your driving style... I've actually heard good things about the XTD flywheels. I wonder if it is really balanced, because I've seen a few posts saying their clutch setups aren't...

As stated above, if your car is already fuel injected, then I don't recommend the relay board either. In fact, MS only uses about 3 relays, I wouldn't recommend it at all to be honest (except maybe a sandrail?)... Also, DIY sells pre-tested equipment, unless you're planning on going where no one on this board has gone before, I'd nix the Stimulator too (especially if you can read electrical diagrams and have good wiring skills).

Something to consider, and possibly acquire to mess with... 84-88 200SXs have a guy making brake upgrades using the 4x4 toyota vented caliper but then a hat for wilwood/coleman/etc bolt on rotors. I think that would be the best setup for occasional track use, that way you can use as big or small as a rotor as can work with the calipers/your wheels, and they normally run as much/cheaper then OEM rotors! That and instead of using long bolts and a spacer, you use rotor hats with about the same length bolt as stock. Also, if you get nice rotor hats (Design Engineering I think...) it would allow rotor replacement without having to mess with wheel bearings/hubs. On a side note, anyone know about every how often should you change front wheel bearings with occasional track use?

What's the benefits of these compared to your standard trucks?

I agree. The ZXT ECU needs a CAS signal to operate. The turbo dizzy's are basically dummy dizzys with no advance/retard. Stick the old dizzy on there with a new cap and rotor and make sure the plug wires are on there correctly.

No. The 81 EFI uses a CAS on the flywheel. The N/As don't use CAS's. You can put in a later 82-83 ZXT Dizzy with the internal CAS and I think it plugs into the same plug.

I think they're catering to the "bolt on" guys instead. The O2 sensor on the stock EFI is unheated and I believe needs to be closer to the turbo. WBO2s can be anywhere in the exhaust stream before a cat or an exhaust leak and still provide good measurement. That said, I've been running an LC-1 on the stock DP with no issues what so ever for over a year.

Maybe someone wants to steal the Civic and they swapped out those plates for yours in an attempt to not get caught?

Doesn't the subtle Z kit still add about 4in to the back? Your current wheels would still not fill the space right. I say cut and reweld your rear fenders and buy proper sized wheels and tires, keeping the JCR kit in the rear.

Dot's car is kind of legendary, I believe it was a Jag V12. Truly an awe inspiring build, I wonder if the new owner knows about HybridZ...

If you want to pay for shipping both ways I have a serial consult adapter you can borrow and try and see if it works. I use it on my SR20DET Sentra, and know it works. Plus I think it works with more software then just Datascan.

Weirdest bump ever? And judging by the signature, thinking spam?

I think I'm dealing with the exactly same issue on my 76 Z with a turbo swap. Can you hear the fuel pump when the car is running? Does it start making noises then finally quit? Do you have a filter before the pump? My Carter pump has a strainer before it, and this is what I'll find: http://www.jeepz.com/forum/all-other-jeep-models/21491-gas-turned-jelly.html http://www.beginnerbikers.org/forum/showthread.php?t=10632 The pick up gets full of this ♥♥♥♥, and after the car cools down, it'll unclog itself. In colder days/nights, I can drive long distances before this starts happening, it seems this crap gets loose once warmed and gets easier to be sucked into the pickup/pump. It burns like fake napalm... (I've replaced all the same parts on my car and didn't notice this crap till I went to mess with the fuel pump again and saw it caught on the strainer). The cure? So far I think dropping the tank and cleaning it out with alcohol, same with the lines. I am going to try one more thing first, if it is a microbial infection, supposedly if you add water remover and biocides (which should be available from boat supply stores) it might dissolve all the jelly. I've been messing with this for over a month and no one has been able to figure it out...

Yea, this is with their supplied Bosch sensor. The car is really loud though, external wastegate turbo, 3in dp/exhaust with a 6in body magnaflow in the trans tunnel where the exhaust ends.

It's not even a DET. How gutless do you want it? I think the stock motor makes more power then that...

A buddy's car has this with their supplied knock sensor and a custom stud to adapt it to the original position. We can't really seem to stop it from going off in high rpm situations, even with low load and a conservative tune, which I doubt is causing engine knock. It has a little POT to tweak sensitivity, and I feel we can't get it insensitive enough. That or the stock position is too noisy and his exhaust too loud.

I want it for another reason. Have you looked at the price of stack style gauges? $$$$ comes to mind.... For the price of a anti-glare super bright direct sunlight readable display and an InCar PC, I could have a dash way better then a STACK and have money left over for tires!

Can't find a price anywhere...

If it is for redundancy, can it be reprogramed to ignore the signal, or does it even matter? I know some SR20DE Sentras (OBDII 200SXs and SE-Rs) throw a CEL if the wrong toothed flywheel is used, but as far as I know it doesn't hinder performance (the ECU "counts" flywheel ring gear teath).

1970-1983 Zs never came factory with a 3 speed + OD. All of them were 1:1 final ratio 3 speeds.

What does it mean they'll pick them up anywhere? As in not in Cali? I think I have 2 under the snow...

Bumping this because I'd love to see this done. Anyways, I think it works on resistance to ground. There might be the response curves in the FSM. I think it'd be way easier to swap in an Autometer sender as you should be able to find their response curve.