slown280z

What are you using for reading AFRs? Can you post your engine setup and fuel and spark tables? Even an MSQ and datalog would be helpful.

BTW, VacBooGauge adds 1 gauges that shows vacuum AND boost, kind of like the autometer gauges where one side is in in/hg and the other PSI.

I wish I was in the same boat as you. I've got a pretty damn solid grasp on the mechanicals, electricals, and control systems of the car, plus I'm pretty good at CAD, but no one to show off to except for local car clubs. I used to pay rent doing small repairs on the side. BTW, the U20 shares a bunch of parts with a forklift motor that is much cheaper...

The one and only. It's bored and stroked by the way... http://www.angelfire.com/extreme/280zxt/

Not a header gasket, a HEAD gasket. It goes in between the head and the block. Some of them have a safety built in that if it blows, it blows towards the outside of the engine instead of the coolant or oil passages so that you can limp it back home.

Sounds like a blown headgasket. Do a compression test.

Head, piston, and cam choices have a huge influence on what an engine can "get away" with (of course, an efficient turbo can make a difference too, as to not be a hairdryer). You'd have nice off boost drivability and a lower boost threshhold with a 9:1 CR L engine, but you won't be able to hit as high of a peak horsepower as a lower CR L. Sometimes that doesn't matter, as that probably wasn't the goal of that engine. There was a thread on here recently that spoke that you can "make up" the horsepower difference of one compression point with 1 PSI of boost, and that you'd be able to run a higher amount of boost in the end, but in turn, give up a few RPM in your boost threshold and have not as peppy off boost response. It's all a balancing act to your wants and needs!

Smoke him.

That one's great!!! By the way, the original is a repost!

I think they are a little to tall for banners... Also, it doesn't lend itself well to print, I'd make it not as "busy." I really like the Datsun logo though. What I would do is remove the sky some more, remove some of the lake, fade the bottom of the buildings, put the Zs at the bottom of the (now solid) buildings, make the logo a tad bigger, and center it on the banner. If you don't want to cover the empire state, either get a different skyline that is shifted, or simply crop one side of it. A then simplified (aka vectorized) skyline, cars, and NYZCC logo would look killer on a shirt/banner for your club, with a high quality version being on the club website. Just my $0.02

Didn't see it mentioned their either. As of now, I tune by myself with target AFRs only used for telling MegaLogViewer what I want the AFR to be. I haven't turned on the corrections yet, and if/when I do, they'd only be for cruise, not while in boost (where I even have accel/decel turned off).

Do you have a link to that? I can't find it anywhere and I'm REALLY interested in it!

Do you burn coolant? Or oil? Or have milky coolant/oil? Do you have a loud "exhaust tick"? If so, it could definitely be a headgasket. Time to rip it apart.

You can keep detonation down with proper fueling and spark. I'm trying to save you money, so that you don't buy a $200 gasket then melt a piston/cook a bearing. People have been getting away with turboing 240z's and their 9:1 (I think) CR for ages. You just have to set your goals and choose parts accordingly. Do it once and do it right! You'll save money in the long run.

It's almost, ALMOST always a ground issue. There's 2 grounds by the turnsignals in the front of the car. Also, these cars have a flasher for hazards, and one for turn signals. It could quite possibly be a bad flasher.

It's got shroud mounting points, so setting up some mounting bars wouldn't be that difficult.

I'm surprised no one has said "headgaskets are not what you should use to choose CR ratio." (Unless the engine is designed to do so, like the Toyota 2JZ). But there, I said it. If the machining has taken away a lot of material to make this a factor, you might just have to get a set of custom pistons.

That just took it to a whole 'nother level...

Did you mess with the INI files for the autotune? If not, you might have not been modifying too much. I think they have an RPM and a KPH cutoff, and if left to defaults, it's pretty low.

If you HAD to run it, you should of had it machined flat. Sure it's nice of them saying they'll replace the header and studs if it breaks, you just better hope the stud doesn't brake off IN the head, because that will be a livid b!tch to fix.

ARP studs and a stock style headgasket will easily allow you to run that much boost and more. MLS gaskets are for engines developing a LOT more horsepower using a lot more boost.

I've seen pictures and the contact area between the 225mm and 240mm flywheels is almost the same and interchangeable. The biggest difference is the DOWEL placement on the flywheel, which dictates alignment and how many bolts it uses. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=138869&highlight=flywheel+dowel

I hate responding to your threads because all you do is talk bench talk and "theories" and "what I heard on the internetz" but I'll bite. I've lost a relationship because of my Z (lata b!7 I know I'm not the only one, either. I've since moved on and the current girl supports my habit. Though I'm beginning to think it's a little out of hand... (There's 2 Zs, a 510, an E30 bimmer, a turbo sentra, and a rare honda at my house currently)

Why rent when you can buy one for $80? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=98793

It's 2 heads. One cut in half and the other has the number 1 and 4 cylinder cut off it. As for a diesel, you won't get the power out of an LD28 that you will out of a powerstroke or cummins. The good thing is that it basically bolts in, you can bolt the turbo manifold to it, and modify the fuel setup to compensate for boost.