JMortensen

That's what I was wondering. That's gotta be bad for lateral weight transfer.

Did the shaft pull out again? That would mean you need a longer shaft. I'm sure you're aware that the right side shaft should be longer than the left. If you drop the spring rate you'll need to raise the car up, otherwise you'll be hitting the bumpstops a lot. I'm thinking you might be hitting the bumpstops with the spring rate at 500+.

Looks good Jay. I guess you got that longer driver's side CV installed. Is that the ride height you're going to run at? Looks like you have very little suspension travel there. What spring rates are you running?

Weld an inch, skip two. I started at one inch welds one inch apart and was told to spread them out:http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=95739 I wouldn't do it with a tig unless you have a lot of time to kill. I'd also STRONGLY recommend building a rotisserie. When you start doing all the frame rails underneath you're going to want one bad.

Sounds good, but I don't think that is exactly right. Quench does produce turbulence which can lower the amount of timing needed to get max power. You'll occasionally hear people say that they run less because they have a high quench head, but I've heard of Datsun racers running LOTS of timing and saying that they make more power that way. I think Dennis Hale was running in the mid to high 40's when it was all in, and the curve kept on going as the rpms get higher, as opposed to your usual mid 30's all in by 2500 rpm. Dennis's engine in his autox 510 is the hottest build Rebello does, so you know it's a high quench setup. I can't recall the compression ratio, but it's got to be 14 or 15:1. I think zredbaron was running a hell of a lot of timing on his setup too.

It's about hiding the turbos. I'm not a fan of street racing or pretty much any other situation where you would need to hide turbos or nitrous or whatever else it is that people try to hide, so I'm not a fan of this in that sense. I have questions about the vinyl seats right above the turbos, but that car doesn't belong in there with the rest of them, in my opinion. He's obviously trying to be sneaky, not being a retard that thinks that you can just weld a turbo to a muffler for more power. Some of those lifting blocks on the trucks are freaking amazing though...

So that might lead to decreased detonation just the same way that good quench does. Does good quench + grooves make it even more detonation resistant? Maybe. Is it worth looking at? Sure! Why the hell not? You can always up the compression ratio. That's not a tough one to figure out. How to make an engine detonation resistant... that's a tougher nut to crack. How will detonation resistance improve power? Well it would potentially free up more timing adjustments, we know there is power there. It might also enable an engine to use a lower octane fuel, we know there is power there also. It's not too hard to see how it COULD be possible. Whether it is or not still takes some testing to figure out. I don't think the grooves do anything at all with dished pistons. the point is that you get a jet of air out of the groove when the piston comes up close to the head. If they never get close, no jet of air, it does nothing.

Your guess is as good as mine. Also want to check the length of the tie rod end, because the turnbuckle is apparently 14 x 1.5 on one end and 5/8 - 18 on the other. If the turbuckle is too short you're kinda screwed. Another possibility is to make your own turnbuckles as discussed before and just use those super high misalignment rod ends on the end. That's really all this part is.

So hit the edge with a little sandpaper. The edge doesn't need to be sharp for the groove to work. The question is does the groove work? If it doesn't then that's that.

Not sure. It could be that you're right, but my instinct is no. The only high swirl ports I've had close contact with are Toyota 22RE ports, and they actually have a curve right at the end so as to send the charge into the cylinder already spinning (it's a shitty design by the way). The LS1 ports from what I've seen just go straight in. There may be some method of swirling the intake that I'm not aware of and I'd certainly go ahead and say that the LS ports have superior flow rates, but I don't see anything in there with regards to getting the charge to swirl.

Have you looked at the LS1 chamber vs a P90 for example? They're really not that different.

$229 for the 240SX. Look under suspension/front multi-link arms

If you don't have some method of cutting the spring perch off and welding the new one on, it's pretty hard.

Thinking more about this, it's probably a LOT like tires forcing water out of tread blocks. I'd look to tires for inspiration on the groove shapes, etc. It might also be possible to put in grooves at angles to force a swirl, or at opposing angles to get 2 diverging or converging swirls in the chamber...

I think there is a significant difference between dimples and grooves, not saying that I'm buying either one though. When the piston comes up close to the head, I'm envisioning the groove acting like a nozzle squirting a stream of air into the rest of the combustion chamber. Dimples might help when the piston is coming up, but when it gets really close to the head I would think that dimples would trap the air. I'm interested to see if it works as advertised...

You have to cut the spring perches off the strut and weld the retaining ring that comes with the coilovers on.

Forgot about the Dunestang. That was a nice little homebuilt project, wasn't it? I did manage to beat him at the Santa Maria autox a couple times if I remember correctly. I'm sure he would have blown my doors off on a big track...

My car has returned very good value for the money I've put into it. There are very few other cars that I could have built for the same money or less that would have been faster. The only one I can think of right off the top is a Myers Manx. I used to autox with a guy who had about $5K in his and he was consistently faster than me. I think that at a road course it might have evened out a little bit with his horrible aero, don't know, never had the chance to get to the track with that guy. If you guys need help getting more out of your car for less money, I'm here to help.

The best machines still have the button that changes them to a static balance. People like static balance for looks, and you'd be surprised how many tire shop guys don't know the difference.

Balanced dynamically? Weights on both sides of the rim?

Interesting. I wouldn't bother bushing the .025 because I think the nut on top will keep it from moving around. If you're really concerned about it you could get some .012 shim stock, cut it into strips and stuff it down in between the shaft and the monoball to make up the difference.

Yes they both have the rotor very close to the LCA. Dave actually suggests cutting the end of the LCA off completely, or at least he used to. If you look at their aluminum control arm it is simlarly designed with no metal surrounding the ball joint.

You mean 14mm, right? 15mm is damn close to 5/8, .600 vs .625. Ground Control has bushings to fit the 14mm shaft of the 0032 with a 5/8" monoball.

Right. I didn't say he used the same valving for the CSR car that he did for mine, did I?

In my view common sense dictates not coming to a Z site where people are there specifically for the purpose of doing really heavy modifications and then suggesting that they have no common sense to be putting money into a Z car.