JMortensen

You only need to mess with backlash when installing an LSD. It's really pretty easy. Look in the yellow pages for gear or drivetrain shops. I think some transmission shops do rear ends, but pretty much every town has a gear shop.

I thought they were driven towards the outside of the case. If I'm wrong, then go for it.

I don't like this idea. This would grind the gears on the belleville springs under load, something they apparently don't take too kindly judging by the problems people have when they have the side gears installed backwards. You're sure you can't put some kind of place holder in on the other side of the worm gears? If not a Belleville spring, maybe just a solid shim would work. Preloading might completely eliminate the noise, but I think a solid shim that took up the majority of the slack should significantly reduce it.

The problem you describe is not likely, if even possible. The distributor is driven off the crank via a geared spindle. Unless the distributor hold downs are loose I can't see how this would occur. Maybe something broken in the vacuum advance plate or something. It all seems very unlikely to me... One issue I've seen on a 280Z distributor is the pickup gap to the trigger wheel can be off. You need BRASS feeler gauges to set this gap as I recall, and I don't know what the gap is supposed to be, you can download a factory service manual off of http://www.carfiche.com, or maybe someone here will pipe up and tell you what the spec is. Were it my car to buy in CA I'd try to find a 75, unless it's a track only thing.

Did your KAAZ diff have the grooves so that the halfshafts click into place with the circlips? I read another post recently where they didn't. There are enough people running around with R200s in 240Z's that I think you can narrow your search a little: Possibilities I can think of off the top of my head: 1. Passenger side shaft is just too short. 2. The lack of circlips is allowing the torque to drive the CV shafts out of the diff and then it is "wrapping up" and coming out on the wheel end. 3. Car is too low. You have the most severe rear control arm angle I've seen on any car. Could be that if you raised the car up that the change in length on the CV would be less drastic.

That's a good one. Racers usually have aluminum bushings made so that there is zero flex in there, of course that basically solid mounts the diff, so it makes it noisy inside. Also slotting the rear crossmember for camber and toe adjustment is a good idea. These are the race type upgrades. The main thing that will make it feel less like a riding LaZBoy is a spring and strut upgrade. If it is a street car and you're just looking for a firmer ride, start there.

[shameless BIL plug]My brother-in-law has a bunch of heads if anyone is looking. You can email him at matmorrow AT att.net.[/shameless BIL plug]

This unfortunately is very true. You would indeed lose quite a bit of compression opening up that gap that wide. It would essentially be pretty close to running a 2mm head gasket with flat tops. You'd need a really shallow chamber to make up the difference. I can't intuit any reason why a wider gap would be preferable though. I would think that the closer the piston got to the head the stronger the blast would be out of the groove, and if you ran it closer, it would pass through .0788" anyway...

http://www.wilwood.com/Products/002-Rotors/004-ULDV/index.asp 10.5 lbs for 8 on 7" 12.2 x 1.25 rotors http://www.wilwood.com/Products/002-Rotors/003-HD/index.asp 12.7 lbs for 8 on 7" 12.2 x 1.25 rotors

The Wilwood lightweight rotors have 32 vanes, the standards have 48 vanes. I'm not sure about material differences in the iron, but I seem to recall that the 48 vane rotors was a couple lbs heavier than the lightweights, which I want to say weigh 12 lbs.

I think the piston and head need to be CLOSE for this to work. Quench close. It might be possible to do a groove around each side of the head where the piston would be close to the head. Not sure if that would be worth the hassle or not.

I would, but I don't have a motor to build that would take advantage of this. I'm pretty sure my 5.3 has dished pistons. rsicard--I reread the thread and we were arguing about timing, not grooves. I got the two confused there. You did not do a 180, I was wrong.

The shape of the flange is different. The bolt spacing should be the same. If yours isn't the same, then it's something that I haven't ever seen or heard of before.

Talk about a 180! You were so absolute that it doesn't work because Vizard didn't know about it, now so absolutely convinced by hearsay on the internet that it does work. I'll continue to wait and see if anyone comes forward with more convincing proof.

You have to understand that there is a lot of BS out there. It's good to be skeptical and not gullible. It's not good to believe every perpetual motion machine sold on the internet works. This quote from Singh's own website looks like typical eco-freak BS: You can't even bring up Brown's Gas as a serious topic here because too many people posted about running their car on tap water and we have enough engineers here that know that it is BS that they just stopped allowing it at all. There are links to Brown's Gas setups on the 3rd link, which is a big red BS flag. The last link is a forum. While we all obviously believe in the value of a forum, they're really only as good as the people in the forum. That forum has a section for Brown's Gas as well. So really what you have is a PopSci article that cuts off right as it gets to the numbers. The fact that we're discussing this topic 3 pages in means that you've got people thinking. But don't assume that anything you say is going to be taken as gospel. Nothing any of us says is taken as gospel.

You do not have to change the pinion flange. The only time you'll change it is if you're going from a later R200 (Z31 for example) to a Z. The S130 pinion flange has the same bolt pattern as the S30. The parts list needed to bolt in a longnose R200 into a 240Z is as follows: 1. mustache bar from 280Z with R200 2. yoke (companion flange) from 280Z with R200 3. rear cover from 280Z or ZX with R200 4. side stub shafts from 280Z or ZX with R200 to bolt up to stock halfshafts FOR EARLY 70-71 Z's only, you need 5 -7. 5. Longer 72-78 driveshaft 6. Curved transverse link that sits right behind the diff from 72-78 Z 7. Flip front diff mount around on crossmember More info: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=114798

My recommendation is as follows: The car will handle better as the ride height decreases because you will reduce lateral weight transfer. So long as you still have enough wheel travel (this is going to depend on your spring rate), and your geometry isn't all screwed up, you should go as low as possible. I think Coffey has some pretty good rules of thumb for how low to go without fixing the geometry. To fix the geometry you'll need to look at roll centers, anti-dive, and bumpsteer. Bumpsteer isn't caused by incorrect ride height, but lowering the car a lot puts the car in a spot in the bumpsteer curve where it's effects are more pronounced. Rear roll center is a bitch to adjust. Front is pretty simple, just redrill the LCA pivot points. Search all of this and you'll find lots of info on it. What diff are you running? If its an R180 you might be able to run shorter LCAs (which I believe you would have to make) to counter some of the neg camber. I'm a bit surprised that you're having that issue, as I ran my car really low and had plenty of adjustment on the rear camber with GC camber plates.

You could argue that Bilsteins are designed to bottom in bump since they have internal bumpstops.

I was simply pointing out that there are big concessions to make to get them on a Z and it is hard to fix the geometry issues to make them handle as well as smaller rims. The reason people run large rims is for looks. If that's what is important then go for it. There are a lot of modifications people do (even here) for nothing more than appearances.

25.5" is a pretty tall tire and that will raise the car up. Then you'll want to lower it down really far to get rid of the gap between the tire and fender. This leaves you with little to no suspension travel, and your rockers might be 8 or 9 inches off the ground. If you like this look, then go for it. Newer cars designed for 18" rims have the body built lower in relation to the hub centerline, so they don't have such a high center of gravity when running tall tires, and they're suspension is designed for the larger wheels, so they aren't riding on the bumpstops and don't have the roll center underground like a Z with 18s does. You can fix all of these issues, it's just not easy to do. Search and you'll find info on adjusting roll centers, sectioning struts, bumpsteer, etc. If you don't care about any of that and are just looking for the slammed suspension but still high off the ground look, then just slap them on and cut the springs and you're good to go.

One other thing to be aware of is that the Toy setup uses LONG bolts to attach the rotor to the hub, due to the thickness of the spacer. Use GOOD quality bolts here. Mark Belrose sheared them off of his car. I don't think the damage done was too bad, but it could have been...

So since the L head is not pushrod driven, does that mean your rules don't apply? I fully agree with you about what is usually right, by the way. I just think you're not leaving any room for other ideas at all. I know those motors are high quench motors, and they have found power on the dyno by experimenting with the timing. When I heard about it I was pretty surprised too, but hey, experience > theory.

Right. That's why the 1000 hp Skyline motor builders cut the quench pads out of the chamber on one side. Again you're too absolute.

Your response is too absolute. Do you think it's even possible to get 14 or 15 to 1 compression and not have quench? I'm not sure that it is. I know that Sunbelt cut the chamber up and fit the piston to the chamber to get quench when they built John Coffey's head, and his motor was ~13:1. Not sure, but I would suspect that a hot Rebello L16 that was $20K+ would be running the 219 head which has 1.5" ports out of the box and a closed chamber, but I don't know that for sure. I would suspect that regardless of the chamber they're using or how it is modified, the piston has to be so close to the head that there would have to be quench just to get the compression that high. I think it's pretty unwise to ASSume that they don't.