JMortensen

The bad thing that will happen from not running enough timing is that you'll be making less power and the engine won't want to accelerate, especially at higher rpms. Some EI units like Electromotive DIS actually use timing retard as a rev limiter. Having experienced that one in person, hitting the rev limiter (which I think took timing from mid 30's to 0 in this case) felt like hitting a brick wall. What would be interesting is dyno plots with the timing backed off and then advanced to where it makes most power. In general, if you can hit that point at which the most power is made with the lowest octane fuel that prevents detonation, that's going to give you the best power overall. Although I don't have a feeling for exactly how much power you're losing out on, I would say that it's going to be a decent amount. I'd rather have 9.5:1 compression and be able to run optimum timing on the fuel that I want to use than have 10.5:1 and have to reduce the timing to prevent detonation.

It would be nice to know if it was a Bilstein unit, because most of the JDM stuff is crap: http://farnorthracing.com/autocross_secrets6.html

You're going to need some LOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOONG control arms. Are you going to carry a ladder to get into the car? Maybe you could add some hooks to the undercarriage to hang the ladder from. Now if you were using 8" springs, then yeah, raise the perches up 2" and you should be good to go.

I actually already sprung for the 9mm Bar-Sto conversion barrel. It was $200. So I'll need to get a couple 9mm magazines, and I'll be good to go. After looking at ammo prices I think that was the right thing to do.

You're going to send the man off the deep end!!!

From Aim Surplus: So there you go. Since I've already got mine ordered and you have to pay a fee for the transfer through an FFL here, I probably really lost out on $50-75. I'm not going to go through the hassle of returning the one I got and getting one from these guys, assuming again that the gun checks out in good condition. The 225 is a smaller version of the P226 with 8+1 capacity in 9mm for anyone interested...

Not sure if you've seen this, but it's worth reading if you haven't. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=87758

Hey, I'm here to help! I'm trying not to feel too dejected about this $279 price... I did some more checking online and I'm getting the impression that the quality of these refurbished guns varies a bit. I'm hoping that this means that I'm not going to get screwed on my gun for $619. I think the guy I bought it from called it a #1 grade, but I guess I didn't really make the connection before that maybe there are other grades out there at potentially cheaper prices. I think the key here is going to be to inspect the gun really closely when it comes in and reject it if it isn't up to snuff. Here is a site that lists a couple of Sig refurbished guns for different prices: http://www.gunsamerica.com/Search/Category/628/Sig-Sauer-Pistols.htm

John, didn't you also send the Quaife out to be preloaded because you were spinning the inside tire in long sweepers?

Damn! That would be a good price. Checked their site too, no luck...

I had heard that the fireproofing was essentially a liner that has water trapped in it. Not like a water balloon, but like a dense sponge like material, and that when using the fire proofing stuff you need a dehumidifier in the safe to keep the guns from rusting. Is that true?

I ordered up the P226 today. I was calling around and about the best price I found was $750. The most expensive was the range which wanted $999.99. Then I called one place and he said he could order a factory refurbished police gun. I had heard about these previously; apparently Sig goes through them with a fine tooth comb and they're essentially new guns. The price was $619, about $100 more than the best deal I'd found locally on the XD. So I decided to go for it. At the rate I've been shooting lately I don't think I'd even break in a new one for a couple years. I can go pick it up on the 18th. Also going to get a CCW permit, just because I found out it's so easy in WA state. Clean police record, $55 and some paperwork, and that's it. Thinking now about some other barrels. I know the .357 Sig barrel drops right in, there are also 9mm conversion barrels, and .22 conversions with a new slide. I might start with the 9mm just for the 15 rd capacity. Then maybe the .357. .22 might be fun, but I think I'll hold off for the moment. I already have a .22 pistol. Starting to think about gun safes vs gun cabinets too. One thing I've noticed is that the safes start at about 700 lbs. That would be a real bitch to get home and set up. I can only assume that if you buy a safe delivery is included...

Single action. Trigger was much stiffer than I expected it to be for a more target/race type pistol.

Man am I ever glad I shot the guns before making a decision! None of the guns I shot was horrible. The accuracy ranged from tolerable to really good. My shooting skills need some work, it's been about 10 years since I've fired a pistol, and a couple times I really felt myself flinching badly. Smooth trigger pulls were hard to come by. I'm definitely out of practice. I tested all the guns at about 20 yards. The resounding winner was the Sig P226. It blew everything else out of the water. My very first shot with this gun hit the bullseye almost direct center, and the range worker kinda laughed when I said "Hoollllllyyyy Shiiiiiiiiiit!!!" Then the rest of that clip (12 rds) went into 1 5/8". They wouldn't let me bench rest, so I leaned on the side of the lane, and they said that was OK. I think accuracy would have been a bit better had I been able to bench rest the gun, and had I not been so flinchy... I'll need to get some snap caps and work on that for sure. The XD was a real let down (sorry guys who own them). Not a horrible gun, but my best group with a full mag was about 3". The XDM shot worse, but that was probably as much a function of the 4 more shots in the clip as it was the accuracy of the gun itself. The worst gun I shot was a Browning Hi-Power. I think it had never been shot before though. They said it was brand new, and I get the distinct feeling I devirginized that one. I could barely keep it within the rings. It might have been better with more use, but it looked weird, felt weird, and shot weird. I didn't actually shoot a .45, but I did shoot a Para-Ordinance 1911 in .40. It was almost as accurate as the Sig, but freakin huge. Too big. On the other end of the scale was the tiny pocket Sig with 7+1 capacity. Not accurate enough for my wants, but certainly would be good if someone were looking to carry a gun in a pocket. Ammo was the range standard, 180 grain CMC. I ended up shooting 200 rounds, and I tried the following guns: Glock 22 - surprisingly good. Accuracy was in the 2.5 inch range, better than I thought it would be, I remembered the trigger being worse. Springfield XDm - disappointing Sig 226 - OH YEAH!!! S&W M&P - I actually shot this one pretty well, but hated the Nerf trigger Sig tiny little gun - too small, not accurate enough for my tastes Browning Hi-Power - I think it would have been better had it been broken in, but it was funky and I didn't like it regardless. Para Ordinance Todd Jarrett edition - Nice gun, too big. I couldn't reach the slide release with my right hand. Had to grab the grip with my left to let the slide go. XD - again, a disappointment. I really wish they had a USP that I could have tried, but at this point I have no reservations buying the 226. Some targets (if you see flyers, they are definitely my fault): P226, 12 rds P226, last 30 rds of the night S&W M&P: Para Ordinance, 16 rds,

Sounds like you're doing something wrong.

Not sure about the part numbers. The new springs are stiffer, so the suspension won't have as much sag, that's how a much shorter spring can only lower the car a little bit. Put the long ones in the back, tight coils at the top. When you put them in the springs will be loose on the perches. Not a problem, just make sure that they sit in the perches correctly when you set the car down.

I was more referring to emergency maneuvers with another Z in tow. I wouldn't be worried at all about pulling a utility trailer with a couple hundred lbs on it.

I had a friend who towed his Z with his other Z to the MSA show about 10 years ago to sell it. He did sell the second Z as I recall. About the best thing I can say was that he didn't crash on the way down. While I think your turbo with Wilwoods would be more than capable of towing and stopping a Z, there are other considerations too where the Z falls short. For towing you want a long wheelbase. It makes things a lot more stable in emergency situations. A Z has a wheelbase shorter than a 510. This friend of mine had a full cage that had a flip down license plate with the hitch welded into the cage behind the plate. That meant that he was sucking exhaust fumes for the several hours he was on his way from SLO to LA. With your typical Z trailer hitch it attaches to the mustache bar bolts. I don't think I'd want to put a couple thousand lbs on those bolts. As Tony said, pull a utility trailer with race tires with a Z, but don't tow a Z with a Z. By the way I haven't tried one of those utility trailers, but I hear they're damn near impossible to back up because they turn so tightly.

Closest Sportsmans Warehouse looks to be about 50 miles away on the other side of Seattle. The deal I've found online looks to be pretty much unbeatable, so I think I'm going to go shoot some guns just to be sure, then find a local dealer willing to do the transfer.

Pics here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=138065&page=4 Huge flares and narrowed rear control arms, coilovers and camber plates I think are all the modifications. You won't find any street tire to fit a 15x14 rim though...

I had the thought of getting one of those Isuzu NPR diesel box vans. The problem with either is the ramps would have to be HUGE. Huge ramps = hassle = heavy = no fun.