JMortensen

If you're spinning the tires and have to back off, then the Quaife is hurting you. To what extent is hard to say. You can tune the suspension around the diff, but it is usually done with stiffer springs all around but stiffer in front, a smaller front bar, and no rear sway bar. I think if you tried to loosen the bar or delete the rear bar with the 225# springs you'll end up with excessive body roll. If you want the more technical version of suspension tuning, search "weight transfer worksheet". There is also the matter of throttle control. There will come a point (sounds like you're there) at which you can't hit the apex and floor the throttle. You'll need to learn how to ease into it.

Agreed. And if you didn't already know "C-clip eliminators" suck. They are tempting because they are cheap, but they leak all the time. If you can, go for different housing ends with bolt in axles.

http://www.rally.subaru.com/concord.html

Read this, then reconsider: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=87758 If you still have the old rubber units, I think you can lessen the strain by using rubber on the back side and poly on the front side.

What class? They changed the rules last year and I thought we were good to go with 1.5 x .095. It kinda pissed me off when I heard that because i had gone 1.75 x .120 just in case they made the rules STRICTER, and then they go and make them more lax.

To fix the ring and pinion destruction pictured above, the answer is to use a bigger stronger ring and pinion. The 10 bolt is 8.5 or 8.6. The 12 bolt is an 8.875" ring gear. The 9" is self explanatory. A 10 bolt would certainly be better on a Z than on a heavy domestic car, but if you're going to change axles and suspension link pickups and all the rest, why not start with the larger stronger diff?

OK, I get it. That makes sense.

I have to wonder why you want the silencer. Seems like it would interfere with the sights on the pistols and every place that I go shooting, noise is not a problem. If it's just to exercise your right to have one I understand, since that's the same reason I got the Sig, but I fail to see the practicality in terms of my own gun usage. What does it do for you?

You could still add a flap to that wing. In fact, in some of the formula car multi-element wings the gurney actually faces forwards on the very top element. The hard part would be mounting the flap without screwing up the airflow too badly.

What is the chord length on that wing? It looks small, but that may just be pictures at angles, etc. How hard do you think it would be to adapt a Gurney flap onto it? That would probably make it quite a bit more effective. Any hardware that sticks out should be on top where the airflow isn't as critical.

Why not spend your money on something that actually makes the car better? Seems like you know that it isn't going to do much for power or driveability, and it will probably not get 26 mpg after the swap. You'll have to mess with the fuel pump, etc. It's a lot of hassle so that you can close the hood and not see or likely feel the difference.

The ones in the pictures are not inverted monotube like Dave's.

Right. Sorry, forgot you mentioned the Konis before. I would adjust the toe on the bottom and try to get the camber where you want it and have the plates even on top. This was not hard to do with my old setup which had both plates and camber bushings. Adjustments after that should be made on the plates, because anything you do on the bottom is going to screw with the toe and the camber. The wrong toe setting will wear the tires off the car really quickly in addition to really affecting handling. For street I like some toe in. 1/8" to 3/16" total. Some prefer less, but that's my recommendation.

Oh, and read my name down in the signature area.

If this is for a street car, then you probably won't need more negative camber. In fact, you might want to take some out on a lowered street car. If you can mount them so that you can get adjustments both ways, that would be nice. I would use the inner camber kit and set toe with it. If nothing else it moves a lot more freely than polyurethane, so it would still be worth doing. As to the springs you're on your own there. I would suggest that the Tokicos might not handle the 300 in/lb spring rate. You might try Bilsteins or the Tokico HTS shocks that Coffey sells. I think the HTS shocks would probably be easier to make work with the camber plates. You might ask John what size the threaded end of the shock is on the HTS. If they're 12mm, then you can use mag lug nuts. If they're 14mm, then you'll have to have some spacers made to fit the monoball to the strut shaft like you would with the Bilsteins.

You DO NOT want them installed at an angle. Any change in the location of the strut top fore/aft is going to put a bind on the rear control arms. The only way to alleviate that bind is to switch to an A arm/toe link configuration instead of the stock H arm. Even with the A arm/toe link you'd have to be sure that you didn't max out the rod ends. If you feel that you'll need increased negative camber (which will probably be true if you're not running bias ply slicks) then I would suggest using a different camber plate that is capable of giving the adjustment you need. A-arm/toe link discussion: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=129154

I like it too. Some of the things on that show are just insane. Like the dude getting punched in the face by Kenny Florian from the last season. He never even closed his eyes! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nQTgejm7vf4

That's a very controversial question. Rather than open that can of worms AGAIN, I suggest you search and read. Search "quench" "octane" "MN47" etc in the L6 forum and you'll find the varying opinions.

It's been discussed and voted down by the admins several times. Put your location on your ad, maybe specify that you only want to sell locally if that is your preference.

12 bolt is another option. You've got some pretty good aftermarket setups now with bolt in axles with higher spline counts, etc.

No problem. If you get really into it, trying to figure out what the valving should be, maybe even trying to revalve a set yourself or anything like that I'd love to follow along on your progress. After Cary's report back on the valving analysis I had done I think it is a pretty safe bet that I will be redoing mine at some point.

Our struts use smaller 30mm pistons. The "good" Bilsteins are the 36 and 46mm pistons, which don't fit in our strut housings. If they could fit into adapters like AZC sells that would really really really be worth doing, as they are much more digressive in nature. The 30 mm pistons are pretty linear, and although they can supposedly be valved to be a bit digressive. Nitrogen charge is there to prevent the shock oil from foaming. It is possible to pull the strut apart and tap it for a schraeder valve. I had discussed doing that with the Shock Shop and ended up just having Bilstein revalve my struts instead, as it was cheaper to send them back to Bilstein to have them revalved (if they needed it later on) than it would have been to have the schraeder installed and revalve them at the Shock Shop. For what it's worth, I'm not entirely impressed with the Shock Shop. I would suggest that if you know what valving you want, just order them from shox.com or Bilstein if you can. Cary and I were working on this kind of in tandem. I paid the Shock Shop to do a valving analysis with the spring rates I want to run and he came back with a recommendation, then I ordered the shocks and they were revalved by Bilstein. I haven't used mine yet. Cary was doing the same thing on Dave Kipperman's car. They ran the struts as per the Shock Shop's recommendations and found the car to be really bouncy. I asked the Shock Shop to dyno all of my struts, but they only dynoed one of them. Since ours are inserts he had to make a fixture to hook them up to the dyno. http://www.shox.com can dyno shocks for you as well, as can a bunch of other places. We had a guy with screen name wiisass post a couple times here who has pulled these things apart and seems fairly knowledgeable. I tracked him down at his forum (which gets NO traffic) and posted and there was a bit of discussion what the terms mean, etc. The second link shows him pulling apart a strut, the internal bumpstop, etc. http://www.theoryinpracticeengineering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=84 http://www.theoryinpracticeengineering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=85

Especially if you don't know what they are or how accurate that manufacturer is in general, dyno plots on all of them is the way to go. Otherwise, how do you know that the dyno plot you have seen is typical?

Edgar, don't cross post in multiple forums. Deleting the others, moving this to the Non-tech board.

Thank you veterans.