JMortensen

Catch can or route it to the exhaust would be my suggestions. It's been discussed quite a few times...

The only adjustment out of the box is front toe as was already stated. You can look into camber plates, custom TC rods, and slotting the crossmember for more adjustability. It's not bolt on stuff so be prepared to do some fabricating and cutting to get it done.

The above is true, which is why I had a WTB classified looking to buy one locally. I got frustrated with the lack of response and was shocked when MSA sent me an airdam and charged ~$20 for shipping.

The issue with 8" springs on Z's is that the coils of the spring may bind before the strut is compressed. Some of this depends on how low you run it, but that's the main issue to look out for.

It's impossible for us to make that determination. We can only give suggestions, you have to act on them.

changed title

Changed title. "Is anybody interested in this" is not a descriptive title, so when people are searching the archives they will have no idea what that thread is about unless they open it. Also, ebay threads should be posted in Non-tech. Moving as well.

The Z chassis's main structure that connects the front to back is NOT the frame rails. It is the rocker panels. In early Z's the "frame rails" don't even connect the front of the car to the back. I'm not sure what happened in Jeff's case, but I have a hard time believing that it was putting frame rails on the floorpan that caused the problem.

If you mean under the floorpan, yes. If you're talking about the engine compartment, I wouldn't.

Did you ask for a set of forged pistons for an L28 or did you ask for a custom set of pistons with all the specs you want. Not too long ago you could get "custom" pistons from Summit with retainers and wrist pins for under $500. I'd be pretty shocked if the price had doubled. I'm guessing you said "Nissan" instead of "custom".

Likewise I used to wrench on a race Porsche that saw upwards of 170 and had thick spacers on the back with 335/35/18 Hoosiers. The spacers were thicker than 2", might have been 3", it's been years so I can't really recall exactly. The issue with wheel spacers is the strength of the studs more than anything else. If the center of the wheel is moved way out (like the Ferrari kit car posted on another thread), then you have a wheel bearing issue as well. Ross at Modern Motorsports used to sell wheel spacers. He had a story about getting his 280ZX stolen and joy ridden until the car was driven off an embankment. The car was pretty much totaled as I recall, but his bolt on spacers were fine. As to the drilled brake rotors, I think that's another overhyped "safety" issue. If those are the fronts then I think having them drilled that much is a bad idea because it reduces the mass of the rotor and that means that it can't absorb as much heat. If they are in the rear though I think that is probably OK, because they won't be doing as much work and the offset to losing the mass is the lighter weight. I've seen many racecars with drilled rotors like that. Look at a drilled Wilwood UL-32 rotor, that's how they come. Smaller rotor so only two rows of holes, but still a lot more holes than you'll find on a Power Stop or other brand. http://store.revolutionbrake.com/wilwood-disc-brakes-wilwood-brake-rotors-uld-32-drilled-lightened-straight-vane-rotors.html Again to use the race Porsche as an example, we used to send that thing out on cracked rotors all the time, and only changed them when the cracks bridged from one hole to the next, and never had a problem with a broken rotor.

I have yet to make it, but my adapter is basically going to look like a bicycle pedal with a shaft that pokes into the rocker and the plate on the end that I can put the jack on. You can't really just make the end of the jack fit because the car tilts as it lifts, so it would bind pretty quickly.

There are differing opinions on this issue. The "old standard" info is that pushing a stock shortblock beyond 7500 is a bad idea because of crank vibrations. Then you have guys like preith and gramercyjam (this is memory talking, could be I have those two names wrong) who ran their engines to 8000 with no issues, and guys like Dan Baldwin who had his flywheel bolts come loose on his stroker with a redline of 7200 if I recall. I think Tony D has had some ideas on this issue in the past as well. There is more than one opinion on the issue for sure. Mine comes from reading others' statements more than anything. I did personally have an old, high-mileage, stock 280ZX damper come apart after running over 7500 a couple times and that ended up screwing up the snout on the crank, but I've never experienced a broken crank or any other really bad ill effects. Seems to me from what I've read that your engine will last longer if you keep it under 7500 rpm.

I think it's open. Of course, last time I said that about a diff I was wrong, but it looks like a 4 pinion open diff to me.

This bold part has been discussed ad infinitum (usually in the V8 forum where someone wants to build a Chevy 302 because they think it will rev faster than a 383) and yours is an incorrect assumption. You're right about the piston speed, but wrong about how quickly the engine will rev. More power will accelerate the engine faster, so the more power you have the faster the engine will rev, and that is true regardless of the rod/stroke ratio. Your engine will have a higher potential top speed because the piston speed will be slower during the period when the piston changes direction, but you still have to figure out what the next weak link is. I personally think it's the crankshaft. If you start looking around you'll see that when guys get into really high rpms they start breaking vibration dampers, flywheel bolts start coming loose, etc. You mentioned a 12K rpm L, I've never heard of such an engine in reality. It's entirely possible that they're out there and I'm just not aware, but the highest rpm L engine I've ever come across is 9500 rpm, and that was an L16 built by Rebello with all the tricks. Dennis Hale owns that motor and if you spend more than an hour with him in person he'll end up telling you how much he spent on it. It was hyper-expensive. I want to say he had $20K in the shortblock.

Heard of it for a race car. Looked and wasn't able to find anyone selling a circuit breaker box instead of a fuse box though.

Did K-Mac make a kit too?

Don't forget to check the U-joints once you get the halfshafts out. I could never really feel a bad halfshaft U-joint in the car.

I wouldn't. If you want to turbo something, get a bottom end with dished pistons (or get dished pistons for this bottom end). You will have much more potential power with lower compression and more boost than with high compression and low boost, plus as already mentioned you won't be on the razor's edge every time you fire it up.

Search "slotted crossmember" and "penultimate crossmember". Try 510 sites as well. I think MSA used to sell a kit for the ZX but no longer does. The kit just had some eccentric adjusters. You can just cut slots and move things around with a prybar if you can't find the adjusters.

Is that the same car that's been for sale several times in the past few years? I think it lived in Seattle a while back. I think the PO posted some race vids of him at Pacific Raceway in the rain. Looked like fun...

I don't know much at all about the 260 distributor. Is it points or EI? What you would like from a distributor is somewhere between 15 and 20 degrees advance at idle and 32-38 degrees when it is all in, which should be somewhere around 2500 rpm. You should disable the vacuum advance and lock that part of the distributor solid so that it can't allow the timing to change. If you were wanting to change, the 280ZX distributor has 17 or 18 degrees of advance, so the curve is right, and it is all in at 2500 rpm. The vacuum advance on the ZX unit SUCKS and they're almost always broken when you pull them from a parts car. Not sure if the 260Z is as fragile, but it would be worth looking into. Of course there are a number of good DIS options now and you can do more with the curve on those. That stage III cam is really way too small to take advantage of those carbs. I'm using something roughly equivalent to their stage IV and I think that is still too small. I'd look for something with lift in the .500 - .550 range and duration in the 300 to 310 range. The lobes on a Z cam are asymmetrical and so its tough to say how a cam will function just by the numbers, but that should get you in the ballpark. This recommendation would still be marginally streetable. If you read the L6 sticky threads you'll see that there are people running Sunbelt cams that only use one valvespring and top out at about 7500 rpm, that seems like a really cool setup to me, also BRAAP has been using a Rebello cam which should fit the bill nicely. There are much bigger cams available, but you still need some low end torque for autox which is why I wouldn't suggest something REALLY big like .620 lift 320 duration... Believe me I understand this. Budget is always my main concern, and if you blow up a motor it can get expensive. But nothing could be more fun than getting out of it what is there to be gotten...

20 whp with no tuning is not bad. I'd suggest a bigger cam, and you need to rev it higher to use the new induction to its full potential. You should have a lot more power potential there. What's your ignition like? There are quite a few hp tied up in the timing as well.

Probably about Dan Baldwin level. Search and you should find build info on his stroker. I think he has some dyno posts either at zcar.com or classiczcars.com. 255 whp, I think redline was 7000 or 7500, triple 45s, cam is a funky Sunbelt unit with single valve springs. I want to say compression around 11:1. Not sure about that...

The bottle is likely an Accusump. Not necessary unless you're pulling extreme g's in the corners on a racetrack. Some really anal people will get one to pressurize the oiling system before starting the engine, but when these engines routinely see 250,000 miles the Accusump starts to seem a bit silly.