JMortensen

That is where the original Nissan rally cars' roll bar bolted up and should be plenty sturdy for a harness bar. Still, why not get the extra benefit and brace the strut towers directly?

I've been convinced through talking to a number of people who know better than I do that the way to go for a race car is stiffer springs and no rear bar. If you aren't going to do that because it's still a street car, then you're going to need the rear bar to balance what is going on in the front. More rear toe in than you currently have might help. Fix the front toe, go 1/4" toe out for autox. I used to adjust one tie rod and I had a street mark and a track mark, which made it really easy to adjust back and forth at the track. You can do the same with your camber plates so that you don't burn your street tires off. A lot of the guys in OR are running really stiff springs (over 500 in/lbs) and are able to put the power down, which leads me to believe that running 400/250 is not necessary. You might also look at 74_5.0L_Z's suspension motion ratio sticky, download the weight transfer spreadsheet and work it out that way. At least with the spreadsheet you're dealing with numbers and not individuals' opinions. They give a suggestion for the "magic number" you're looking for, but then suggest that you can tailor it to suit your driving style. Might get you in the ballpark and you'd be surprised how much a SMALL change to the roll center makes. On the tire temps I'd try and keep the insides 10-20 degrees hotter than the outsides if possible.

I believe the Painless has all of the circuits running on relays. Not sure about the EZ harness. Maybe that is a difference between them?

This is a fair assessment of the limitations of the Kameari tensioner. BUT, add an adjustable cam gear to the whole deal and now you can shave the head and adjust the gear and get the cam timing right, and the Kameari can adjust out the slack in the chain, no problem. Seems like first checking the bolts to see if they bottom and then either getting shorter bolts or cutting the existing bolts would be easy enough to do. I think you're making this part more complicated than it needs to be. EDIT--Oops. Somehow I missed Jeff's response that mentioned the adjustable cam gear.

The LSD you get in the shortnose is usualy the VLSD, which I'm not a fan of. You can buy an LSD for either diff. The only issue I'm aware of with the Z31T CVs is on extremely lowered cars the CVs seem to be binding. There is some talk about coming up with a shorter CV shaft, and I know Ross at MM has already said he'd have some made up for anyone who needed them. You might want to compare costs between a longnose (factor in buying a brand new LSD and spending the money on the shorter axles as a worst case scenario), and the shortnose with its mandatory parts for installation. I haven't checked but it seems like the shortnose is the expensive way to go, I could be wrong...

That is only needed on 70 and early 71 240Zs. After mid 71 they moved the diff back and all of them got the curved link. From this thread:http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=114798 The parts list needed to bolt in a longnose R200 into a 240Z is as follows: 1. mustache bar from 280Z with R200 2. yoke (companion flange) from 280Z with R200 3. rear cover from 280Z or ZX with R200 4. side stub shafts from 280Z or ZX with R200 to bolt up to stock halfshafts FOR EARLY 70-71 Z's only, you need 5 -7. 5. Longer 72-78 driveshaft 6. Curved transverse link that sits right behind the diff from 72-78 Z 7. Flip front diff mount around on crossmember 5-7 are necessary because the early Z's had the diff mounted forward, and swapping to the R200 moves the diff rearward. Obviously if you buy a diff from a 280Z with an R200, it has everything you need except the mustache bar. If you buy the 300ZX diff, then you need the above pieces.

We had 4" of snow the day before yesterday it mostly melted in the afternoon, then another 4" yesterday. Had the loudest thunderclap I've ever heard about 10 PM last night. It must have hit a tree in my yard or something. My dog about sh!t a brick... Looks better today, but I'm with you. This is really starting to get on my nerves, especially after the ONE 80 degree day a couple weeks ago.

Ron Tyler mount doesn't fit the short diff. You'd need the new MM mount, or the TTT mount, or make your own. Why are you going with the shortnose diff? It certainly isn't necessary for your intended power output, and adds a lot of complexity ($$$) to your build. It doesn't save weight, requires the expensive CV upgrade, and won't make you go faster.

If you can't get the stub axle out, take a center punch, stick it in the dimple on the inside of the axle, and whale on it with a BFH. I usually find that they come out fairly easily with a big air hammer and the center punch tip for it. Judging by your comment about the nut, I expect that you did not cut the peened area off before you removed it. That would lead me to believe that the threads are all wiped off on the end of the axle. When you get your 280 stuff if you have to take those nuts off then be sure to cut the peened section off the nut before you loosen it. I did mine with a Dremel and a cut off wheel. If you don't do this, you'll spend hours with a thread file fixing the threads so that you can put your new nuts on the axle. Modern Motorsports sends out the 280ZXT stub axle nuts which don't require that peening of the nut so you won't have to mess with that again should you need to change wheel bearings or something later on.

I've never seen regulations like that for a local autox. Most of them just refer to SCCA regulations, so you might check there, but I don't recall seeing anything there either. You might consider bolting on a strut tower bar and connecting your seatbelts there, at least you'd get a chassis stiffening side benefit from the bar installation.

You mean to say you changed everything and didn't have a winner straight out of the box? I think katman is onto something. Your front bar can now do it's job as it is supposed to, so its like you've added a gigantic front bar compared to the old setup. It's kind of like me testing the bar strength on my workbench. The workbench seemed fairly solid but I was losing 3/4 of the spring rate of the bar through the bench. On top of that you removed the rear bar. So your roll stiffness when compared front to rear is way off from what it was before. I like the suggestion of toe in out back for the power oversteer, but I think you're going to have to do something else to get your balance back. Either put the rear bar back on or put a smaller bar in front and run stiffer springs to help with the body roll.

I am not saying this to make the original poster feel bad about their purchase, but I've got a different opinion about what would be the best way to do this. The perceived advantage of the lower gearset is more than overwhelmed by the huge gap between 2 and 3 in that transmission in my experience. The more peaky the engine is the worse the effect of the gap. The better setup would be the ZX transmission with its closer ratios with the truck 5th gear and then to get the acceleration use a lower rear end gear. Of course that's not the end of "better thans". Better than that would be one of the old option 2 comp boxes. Better than that would be Coffey's old transmission. I'm sure it goes on from there but I am not aware of anyone who has gone farther than that.

Post a for sale ad please. It is not appropriate to post your carbs for sale here.

I was using the Yokohama ADVAN A005 250/590/15 radial slicks (the size equates to about 250-45-15). It is about 23.5" tall and has a tread width of about 9.5".

I can say that I checked Painless's 8 circuit race car wiring harness a couple days ago and it was $300. That didn't seem too painless. Hopefully someone else will lead us both to a better alternative...

That front diff mount is for the longnose R200. I'm not sure if the mustache bar fits the short nose diff, I think it doesn't. The swaybar attaches to the brackets, not the other way around so that won't really matter, really the issue is whether you run a rear bar or not. Maximum Motorsports and Techno Toy Tuning make all the parts you need to swap in the shortnose R200. Search and you will find MM's recent post (within a week or so) showing all of their new parts. TTT's stuff won't be hard to find either. intuitdriver also wanted to know what is needed to attach the T5 driveshaft to the R200 diff flange, but didn't ask that question here. I'm sure some of you shortnose R200 guys have already figured that one out...

One option is to run the FA 15" front tires on all 4 corners, and there is nothing wrong with that. I ran them on my car with no flares at all, although I did run them on way too skinny 8" rims. The 9.5" wide tires fit correctly on a 10" rim, and that should fit under your subtle z flares. The Yokohama radials would last me a full season of autox plus a couple track days. They do get hard and need replacing for that reason, rather than wearing to the cords, although I think your suspension will work them a lot harder than mine did and you may actually be able to wear them out. I was starting with used slicks that came from the pro Toyota Atlantic teams (the Yokohama is their spec tire). I think the Goodyear radial is supposed to be a faster tire than either the Yokohama or the Hoosier.

No personal experience, but BRAAP turned me onto this tool on p17 of the ISKY catalog when I asked a while back: http://www.iskycams.com/onlinecatalog.html It is a valve shaped cutter that you operate with a hand drill. Just stick it in the valve guide, put the head on the block and cut away. I think the rule of thumb is that you want .050" clearance between the valve head and the piston, I've seen a machinist figuring out clearances with modeling clay. I think that is the way to go if you're not sure whether or not you need to cut the pistons. Put a dollop of clay on the pistons, set the head on the block with a headgasket, turn it over, cut the clay down the middle and measure the clearance.

Why? I ran something similar to that Stage IV with about 8.5:1 compression and loved it. The only mistake was going with a smaller cam first, so I ended up having to spend twice as much on the camshaft and had to set the lash pads and all that twice. That Schneider Stage IV is really a medium-ish cam at best. There smaller ones are puny in my opinion.

Sounds like you've talked yourself into your 40s. I guess I've done the same with my 44s. By the way, you can get smaller venturis for the 44s too, so there is some overlap there. I changed my 34s out for 37s... Your O2 sounds like it is a cheap crappy one. I have a friend who got the Autometer A/F ratio gauge and was all pissed off that I had told him to get it. Then he changed the sensor and it worked great. Not as good as a wideband of course, but definitely better than what you describe and similar to my own results. I use a Bosch sensor for what it's worth.

The 280 springs are too soft for a 280. 240 springs will ride like a barcalounger.

I never tracked it down that closely to be honest. I just know that I was racing that day, I'd bring the car in from a session, pop the hood, and then as it idled with the fan running the exhaust would start to sound flat and farty, and then after a couple minutes it would die. Let it sit for an hour or so, it would fire right back up and run great. In the afternoon when it got hotter I also noticed it was bogging at the end of the longest straightaway too. I don't really think it matters too much where the fuel gets hot. The problem is that it gets hot. I think the mechanical pump and stock rail put a LOT of heat into the fuel.

What are you using for the fuel pump and rail? The only time that I had vapor lock was when I ran the mechanical pump and the stock rail with SUs and those problems completely disappeared when I switched to an electric pump and got rid of the fuel rail. I ran my Mikunis with the stock asbestos insulators and no heat shield in 105 degree weather and never had any vapor lock issues. I did use a longer Cannon manifold which moves the carb bodies a little farther away from the header tubes.

If you don't KNOW, don't GUESS. I believe so. Call and ask to be sure.

Looks like the San Francisco treat to me...