JMortensen

I meant search here, not at summit. Sorry about that, I should have been more specific. They have a custom piston setup with rings, wrist pins, and retainers. Several years ago it was $463. If you bought the Nissan pistons at that time, you'd spend closer to $700.

If it sounds too good to be true...

I think you and Clifton (among others) have the right idea on this issue. If you're going to run the turbo, run a big one, turn the boost way up, and get more power. Deal with the lag, and forget about trying to run more compression with a lower boost turbo. If you want no lag and big power, get a V8. Maybe I'm oversimplifying, but that's my quick and simple advice...

I kill me...

How much quench do you think he had with the dished pistons in there? I think the problem is the increase in compression. In Canada do they use the same RON+MON/2 octane rating we do in the states? If not, is there a higher octane gas you can use?

Search "Ross forged pistons" and "summit racing". I would imagine that it would be fairly easy to find forged dished L pistons, but the Ross pistons are a better deal last time I checked. You might also consider finding a good set of L24 9mm rods and having the pistons made to work with those. Gets you a little better rod/stroke ratio and won't affect the price if you get the Ross pistons through Summit.

People have said that the R35 compound is about the same as the Yokohama slicks that I ran when checked with a durometer. If that is the case, I agree with you. Those Yokohamas really were too hard for autox. I think the simplest answer is try an R25 compound. Or an R15. For other options I'd try the Goodyear FA front slicks. They're just a hair taller than what you have now, and they come in an R160 and an R100, I think they used to have an R080. All should be softer than what you're currently using. If you ran the A6's John recommends you could be re-classed in O/SP, which might be cool. I ran that class for a couple years and loved it, just because I got to race against all kinds of weird cars. I thought there was some issue with those tires not holding up on heavier cars though. I thought it was even John who posted about it. I think the rod end front control arm is the best solution when you're adding caster, because a poly or other LCA bushing will tend to want to bind. I'd do a rod end TC rod too. You'll end up with a shorter TC rod, but you can dial in a lot more caster. Unless you start modifying the frame, that is...

The ring and pinion are such a bitch to set up right that I'd rather just buy a used diff with that ratio than swap gearsets. Just my opinion...

Next time don't use a reserve and just start the bidding at $1000. You had to pay for the reserve and then you posted it in the auction... that don't make no sense.

That Vette is REALLY freakin awesome and a big step up from his Z in my opinion. Congrats Jim!

I'm guessing that the style has changed and that people actually don't like having big fat lips on their wheels anymore?!? WTF is up with people that they'd let style dictate to the point that they run a friggin 8" wheel spacer. I can't imagine that being very good for the wheel bearings, even if you could make it strong enough and well balanced enough to be safe. I'd personally go the other way and just run a wheel like you'd find in this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=106563

200SXT is the one if I recall.

Lighter wheels = more traction because the suspension can cope better with less unsprung weight, keeping the tire planted. It will also equal more acceleration and better braking, as it is similar in effect to putting a lighter flywheel on at every corner of the car. That said I could do A LOT of things to a Z with $8000, and I'd have a MUCH faster car on Diamond Racing steel wheels than the guy who just buys the CF wheels instead. If you have an unlimited budget, go for it, but if you have an unlimited budget, why are you driving a Z?

I think you're right in that it can be notched for more clearance, but I think the R200 that it fits is the shortnose, which has a smaller finned sump area.

I'm pretty sure the shortnose R200 finned cover isn't as deep as the longnose R200 finned cover. I believe Ross's part is designed for the shortnose diff. It could probably be modded to fit, or you could make your own. Gary, are you still making your version? It should work: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=126208&page=9 EDIT--Wait a minute. Gary's mounts above the bushing cups, so that won't work. It's not hard to make your own. Or the NOS part should work.

In screwing around with the rear suspension I've found that the most important thing you can do is to make sure that the strut is perpendicular to the control arm and the strut top. Any movement of the top or bottom forward or back puts a bending load in the strut. Realistically the control arm will bend before the strut does, but this process still puts stress on the arm and also the side force on the strut can't be good for stiction. Here's a related thread with a solution that nobody has finished yet: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=129154

You need to get a tool that allows you to shrink down your photos. Web photos need only be about 72 dpi. Your photo that comes out of your camera is probably thousands of dpi. That's important when you're printing photos, but when you're just displaying them on the web it's extreme overkill. There are a ton of different applications to reduce your photo size. Find one and use it.

Looks like I might be able to get Hawk HP pads... also found Green Stuff pads. Weird. Nobody has any suggestions?

I warped the front rotors on my 2006 GMC1500 4x4, I think it happened when I towed my friend's S10 Blazer on my trailer. That was a lot of weight behind the truck and I had a couple long downhill stops from relatively high speeds. Anyway, rather than screw with turning the rotors and all that I'm just going to replace them. I've looked and it appears you can get Brembo rotors, which I'll do because they lasted so well on the Z, but I have no clue as to what would be the best brake pad for this application. It will be used as a tow vehicle and I drive it maybe 5000 miles/yr on the street. Pad longevity is not a concern, I just want something that doesn't warp the rotors with the type of use I'll put them through. Suggestions?

That was the initial idea and then I came to my senses and just did one hole on each side. I previously had to lift the front fender to get the jack under the crossmember (actually creased a fender doing that) so since the car will be lower, I decided this would be the way to go, and I'll just jack up one side or the other to change spring perch height or do whatever needs doing. I had not understood what the Bad Dog jacking plate was. I thought it actually notched the rocker so that you could lower the car further and still get the jack underneath. From the pics above, it looks like it just allows you to slide a jack under the side and jack the car up without crushing the pinched sheetmetal area.

Agreed. Nice job on the front end. Can't really see if you sealed the air dam to the rad support, but that would be a good idea. Did you read the wind tunnel test info? Keep the pics coming! Some of us need a little inspiring...

Those are for turning the piston back in when you change pads. You may notice that you can't just compress them back in like you can in the front. If you could the ebrake wouldn't work. It's basically an anti-return mechanism for the pistons. Your pads should have one tab on the back which needs to fit into one of the slots after you've screwed the pistons back in. There are special tools you can buy to turn the piston, I always just used a screwdriver, just be careful not to slip and cut the dust seal. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002T5QC6?smid=A12Z73RZ9UJBDY&tag=yahoo-tools06-20&linkCode=asn

I went back 4 or 5 pages and could not find the post being quoted. It would help to actually quote the post rather than just put it in bold, especially on a thread like this which is nearing 300 posts. Is the bold the new info or the original info that is being challenged? Somebody has low pressure = high velocity and high pressure = low velocity screwed around, and somebody is claiming to use physics to back themselves up but doesn't show any physics.