JMortensen

I don't know that knowing the donor vehicle will help much either. What needs to happen is that the rotors need to be made to fit onto the hubs (either bolt on or slip on) and then the calipers need to be made to bolt on so that they fit the rotors.

Mike Kelly has repeatedly told the story of getting his L6 powered Z to 160+ verified by GPS. Just reminding everyone...

No, John's was a stroker, as was Brian's. Might have been a 3.1 vs a 3.2. Can't remember.

Yeah, but I'm a racer who has never used either product and hasn't been on the track since... gulp... 2001. Damn I need to stop typing and get out to the garage!

I'd go with a bit of toe in on the front for the street alignment if you don't like a car that wanders...

The cheesy thing to do is to heat the springs with a torch until they sag to the height you want. That's a redneck "performance upgrade" that is not worth doing. Cutting springs with a cutoff wheel is fine, although the stock Z springs are WAAAY too soft so you'd do better to get a set of stiffer aftermarket springs. Also, in regards to the spring rate going up, Dan Baldwin did the calculation some years back and cutting a couple coils and added something like 5% to the spring rate. So it's not going to change enough to compensate for the car being so undersprung in the first place.

I'm not really understanding what you're talking about. The point to the bit that you quoted was that I found it hard to believe that John's Sunbelt motor with higher compression and the same displacement as Brian's engine with relatively low compression put out roughly the same power. You can quote me this time: Different dynos will yield different power numbers, so take them with a grain of salt. Put two cars on the same dyno one right after the other and then you can compare the results. Everything else is peeing up a rope.

Either of the above are good welders. If you're doing thinner stuff (1/8" thick and less) then the 135 or I think they have a 140 now is a good choice. I have one and LOVE it. Fantastic machine, worth every penny. If you're going to be welding 1/4" thick stuff for the house, the 175 is the better choice, but you need a 220V outlet to plug it in. Bottom line is get the best welder you can afford. A good welder makes a HUGE difference in the quality of your welds.

If it really has that much power I think it might get closer than you guys think. Might not be the most stable car at those speeds, but basically you just have to have enough power to push through the air to hit a given speed... I wouldn't want to go that fast in it, but it looks like a nice car. $32k is a joke, as are the other asking prices.

OK guys, enough of that. Keep it focused or we'll be forced to trash the whole thread.

We already have a thread going on this in the Non-Tech Board. I'm going to try and merge them.

You've got plenty of options: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=114798

Looks like RX-8 meets Caddy CTS to me.

I gotta disagree there. An old Bronco is the most basic of transportation. If you have a good engine, trans, transfer case, and diffs they'll run forever. Throw on some electronic ignition and what's to go wrong? Kinda similar to a very basic Japanese sports car from the same time period...

It should have an R200 in it. Why not just use that? You looking for extra projects?

Looking good!

Very cool little spreadsheet. Might put it in the download section as well.

Toe in front and rear makes a car more stable. .02 degrees seems a little light on the front end, but I haven't used degrees in a long time. You want something around 1/8" toe in (total).

1. Use a prybar to pop them out. 2. No crush sleeve. 3. You can reuse the nut, use red loctite on it. Tom, sometimes you just don't know who to trust. I'll say that Steve Golik has never sent me in the wrong direction. Kim Blough on the other hand...

If it chatters, put additive in it. I would suspect that you would need additive with Mobil 1, but I have no personal experience.

You'd have to double check me on this, but I think the 710 front control arms are longer, so if that's right that's a good way to get some neg camber up front. Just saying because 710's are pretty hard to come by, and you must have found one...

I don't think finding a 23 or 24 mm bar is going to be easy. Used to be that you could buy a whole assortment of bars from Nissan Comp. No longer. Now I think the closest you could come to that kind of selection would be to install a circle track style hollow bar, then you can get a bunch of different wall thicknesses and they act like different sized solid bars. Lots of work, but that's probably the easiest answer for someone looking for a particular size bar that wasn't stock or 1 inch or 1 1/8 inch.

We looked at the idea and decided against it. Too many interesting things would end up in a forum that wasn't read by the rest of the members. You can always put the area you're concerned about in the title, example: "NW members, club drive on Saturday" or similar...