JMortensen

The stock design for the mount is crap. Instead of pushing on the rubber mount and compressing it, the stock mount pulls apart under torque. There are some easy to do much better alternatives discussed in my diff thread.

Just remember the old adage: "Quiet valves burn". You might just double check the lash. Sounds like a score for $1000! 6-2-1 exhaust was stock, the collector was around where the floor meets the firewall. The stock manifold is long-ish, but then the 2 pipes are probably 3 feet long. It's a pretty good setup, which is why stock engines don't really make more hp with a header (especially a cheap crappy one). Nothing wrong with an E88 head either, well the early ones anyway. Early 260 should have the last version, but judging by the rest of the parts, that may have been swapped out...

Changed the title. Needs to be descriptive enough that we don't need to open it to know what is inside.

It is really funny. Maybe he could have actually been driving a little better if he hadn't been playing to the camera though...

Wow. That's cool, and even better that it all happens on the column instead of having to mess with the rack and a pump. That gives some real latitude to make it easy to fabricate mounts. Thanks for the info!

If your cage is done right and connects to the strut towers and makes everything rigid in back, then I think you can ditch the box. However, I think that triangular box is a major structural area for the stock car and I wouldn't cut it out without something else back there for supporting the strut towers.

I think it's possible to figure out how much hp you would gain per degree of heat in the air, but I don't think 7hp per 100 is a universal number, and I don't think that the Z has very hot underhood temps when the car is moving, at least not compared to other cars. The Z has such a HUGE inlet in the front and the front end is so far from sealed with holes in the core support and the huge opening under the core support and on top of it as well that there is plenty of cool air getting into the engine compartment. Now you start closing all that stuff off and ducting the airdam to the radiator, and then maybe I think the cold air box makes more sense. That's my untested take on it anyway.

You can search for triple carb and turbo, been lots of threads on that one. Triple turbos is a waste of money and weight for the associated plumbing in my opinion.

I'm also interested in this. So this is the whole rack then? Motor on the rack itself? Any controller involved? Seems like there would have to be, otherwise you'd have severely light steering at speed. More details and pics please!

That is a question for someone else. John, katman?

I just remembered the best S&W cage install I've seen: http://www.geocities.com/projectzt/halfcage.html Austin threw away the plans that have the main hoop supports attaching to the floor and hooked them into the strut towers. He also did the bent bar around the back of the seat.

When I cut the sleeve I cut it so that the blade faced the arm. That way if I did cut into the arm itself I was cutting in a reinforced area rather than the thin round tube that is welded onto the end. Also, I made one cut with a hacksawto release the spring of the press fit and then tapped the sleeve out with a hammer and chisel until I could get a pair of pliers on it. No heat, no multiple cuts, and it was easy to do on my CA control arms.

I would just put in a bent section around the driver. Here is what I did for mine: Here is my thread about my cage: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=102715. I used the best info I could find from guys like katman, johnc, 74_5.0L_Z, tube80z, and others to come up with my end result, but I'm not exactly the go to guy on this stuff. This is the first cage I've ever done. These other guys can offer you more experienced advice than I can. Since you asked though, I would avoid trying to make the Autopower work with the S&W because the hoops are probably not in the same place, or at the same height, so I think you'll end up doing a lot of "adjusting" to make it work, if it would at all.

I wonder if those two devices work well in conjunction with each other. My instinct tells me no, because either you're creating vortices and then trying to steer them, or you're steering the air so that it's stays attached to the rear window and then creating vortices which would lessen the pressure on the rear window. I suppose some testing would be needed to figure it out for sure, but seems like someone is on a quest for more bling and figured if one is good than surely two is better...

We have a classified section for selling parts.

I think it's possible for a plenum style intake to outperform an ITB setup, but the plenum has to be properly designed to do so. "Properly designed" seems to be the tough part. There have been several attempts made at this. Tough to argue with Coffeys 280whp NA Z which had a plenum. Ron Tyler also built a very nice one, but the end result on the dyno wasn't very spectacular. I don't know if that was the plenum's fault or the rest of the engine or what. I think the advantage of the plenum is that it can draw cold air vs engine compartment heated air (although I think people make more out of this than it really is worth) and the 6 cylinders can all combine to get the air velocity up as it goes into the plenum, which if done properly should increase hp vs 6 ITBs just pulling randomly from the engine compartment.

This is opinion, but your carbs are too small for a stroker. 44s or 45s would do much better. Search for threads by zredbaron. He built a stroker with a Sunbelt head and put 40s on it and I think he got 220whp out of it. Don't go too small on the cam either. You'd do yourself a huge favor to read those threads before you proceed...

You can introduce yourself in the non-tech forum, or you can start a project thread for your old projects. Either way works.

Onehundredoctane, next time put a title on your post so that people will know what it is about without having to open it. I've changed this one for you.

Mine came with a name on it. It said "Datsun 240Z".

I think this should really be done in the classifieds. You could put items in there with a "make offer" price. As to your springs, they are 150 in/lb. If memory serves, the first number is the length, the second is the ID, and the third is the rate. They won't work without the rest of the coilover setup.

http://www.onlinemetals.com is up here in Seattle. Not the best prices, but might get there faster than some place on the east coast.

I have enough other crap to do that I feel that the Bad Dog parts were worth it for me. I don't think it would be too hard to make up your own, so if you like doing that then maybe that's a better route for you. The thing that I liked about them was that my car is going to be really low and they don't take up anything more than maybe an extra 1/8" of ground clearance. Most of the ones that you see either protrude into the floor which seems bothersome to me, or they cut down ground clearance quite a bit.

Yep, I bought 3 engine stands and sacrificed one to make the others taller. I've posted probably 10 times on other threads about it, and there are a ton of people who have made their own from scratch. Lots of useful info here about rotisseries. Here are a couple of my threads, you can search and find more: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=104151 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=105319

To me it sounds like a complicated aero project probably with the intent of getting a flat bottom car. Am I on the right track? If so, I'd say make your life easier and use a smaller less effective diffuser in back and just put a bigger more effective wing on. I don't like the idea of having a large frame rail running between my feet inside the car, especially not if its entirely within the cabin. If you do end up going for the flat floor it will be an interesting experiment. I hope you're short though. From memory I think if you went with a flat floor from the rocker across you'd lose about 3-4" of headroom. I suppose another benefit might be that if you dry sumped the engine and did something to raise the front crossmember you might be able to lower the car a lot further. It would be A HELL OF A LOT OF WORK though. I'd take a really close look at the underside of your car before you start, and try to think through all the complications you're going to run into. And as an alternative you could just run side skirts that hang down and run your flat floor off of them, connected to the frame rails underneath.