JMortensen

Start with some punctuation and spelling. Then try to write in a way that we know what you are talking about. What I think I see is that the frame is rotten. If that's the case then you really can't do anything else until you fix that problem. The suspension attaches to the frame, and if it is not solid the suspension can move in all sorts of directions that it shouldn't be able to. I'd suggest you find another ZX if it is that bad and start over.

If it's right, it's right. You should check on several different valves too, and intake and exhaust should be checked separately. As to the feeler gauge thing, that's ONLY TO FIGURE OUT WHAT SIZE YOU NEED. One you figure that out, you still need to buy the correct size and install them. It saves you from having to buy a huge assortment of pads, but you do still need to buy the correct size.

The spacer is just pressed on, not welded.That strut won't physically fit into the front housing with the spacer on. It's 2 inches too long.

Jay I just thought of something else. The inner CV spline section is different on one side than the other. If I recall the passenger side spline is longer. I am thinking it is possible that somebody installed the inner CV joint on the wrong shaft. This would mean that you would need to pull the inner joints off and switch to the other shaft in order to reinstall the shafts on the correct side.

No problem. Post some pics when you get it figured out. I'm going to be dealing with this issue pretty quick I think. Still trying to figure out whether to relocate the diff forward or get shorter shafts...

OK, so pics do help! The CV "bearing" if you will, came out of the "race". The only way the shaft can pop out of the inside like that is if the shaft is too short. It would bind if it was overarticulated and in most cases this breaks the race part, but I don't think that's what is going on here. Mayolives describes his breakage in this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=114195 Mayolives issue was that his shafts are too LONG. This causes the bind in his case. He got some shorter shafts made and hasn't had trouble since. Are you running the same length shaft on both sides? I think the driver's side needs to be shorter. Did you perhaps put the longer shaft on the driver's side and the shorter shaft on the passenger's side? I'm not familiar with how those 280ZXT shafts get assembled and so I don't know how easy it will be to reassemble the one that came apart...

I think I understand what he's saying, the bit that has me totally baffled is that they apparently "blew out" the CV while PUSHING the car. Plus the "knuckle popping out" is a mystery to me. The whole thing is weird.

I'd double check the reaction disk and while you're in there, check the length of the pushrod that actually engages the master.

Yeah, the tape transfer time does seem to be slow and that seems to be another point in favor of the HD setups. I seem to be finding that the DVD ones only record about 20 minutes of video on a disk. I think I've ruled them out entirely at this point. I'm not sure about doing the camcorder function off of a camera though. Several issues come up. If you can record 2 hours of video on 2 gigs of ram, that means that the video isn't very high quality (right?). Also, I'd be reluctant to strap a big camera onto the roll bar of my car. Plus, I have a Nikon camera now that does video and it isn't very good. Has a repetitive clicking noise on the video mode, and the quality is crap. Granted, its not as nice as the camera you linked to...

Oh, I'd also like to do a lipstick camera remotely mounted in the car. Suggestions for where to get the camera and what type of plug in is necessary also appreciated.

I'm looking into getting a camcorder, and I've already done some research. Basically what I've found is that all of the commonly available types have their pros and cons. This is what I've determined so far (please correct me if I'm wrong): 1. DV camcorders: record on tapes. The tape media allows for the most thorough editing (I won't be editing frame by frame anyway). Lowest price. Can record widescreen, but not in HD. 2. DVD camcorders: records straight to DVD. Somehow in this process you get some data loss when it changes the format to DVD (mpeg4 from avi???), so picture quality is not as good as DV. After the format is changed, you can't edit as thoroughly as DV. Middle priced. Can record widescreen but not HD. 3. HDD camcorders: records to hard drive. Similar data loss to DVD camcorders. Can record hours and hours of video. Can record widescreen but not HD. 4. HD HDD camcorders: records to hard drive. I've got a little confusion here, but I think this one is also not as editable as the DV, but has HD, so one would assume little or no data loss. Pricey. 5. HD DV camcorders: records to DV tape. I think you're pretty limited in the amount of time you can record to a DV tape in HD. Possibly better editing and picture than the HDD version. Pricey. So basically I have an HD TV and LOVE HD vs normal definition at least in normal programming (DVD's seem fine to me), also LOVE widescreen vs 4:3, and I want to buy a camcorder that won't be completely out of date in a couple years. Use will mostly be for home movie types of things, but I definitely want to use it in my car, which will be a rough ride for the camera to say the least, and I'm not sure HD would do any good here due to the vibrations that will no doubt be prevalent. I'm a bit worried about how the hard drive cameras will deal with vibration and g forces, and that makes me think maybe the DV version would be a better choice. I've also read stuff about converting the DV or HD output to DVD, and it appears that this requires a HUGE hard drive, so I'm thinking that it might be nicer at least from a user's standpoint to stick with the DVD version rather than have to buy an external drive and a DVD burner. Current DVD's seem fine to me for some reason even though the standard def TV doesn't seem anywhere near as good as HD. Do they even have HD DVD burners out yet? I suppose at some point they will also have a HD DVD camcorder, which might be the ultimate solution... I wonder if this will hit the market anytime soon, probably the week after I buy something. So suggestions for cameras, equipment and all that would be appreciated. I did find a fairly useful thread from around January, but it didn't touch on the HD aspect at all.

Edited title to save Alex further embarrassment.

This all sounds very strange. Pics would help to understand what's going on here...

I changed the name of this thread to keep it from breaking the "best" rule.

Oops, should have said MTL, Synchromesh isn't a redline product I guess. I thought it was. Anyway, Synchromesh is also supposed to be very good according to some fellow autoxers I used to race with.

I'd use Synchromesh if you feel a need to stay with Redline. If not, I'd go with SWEPCO 201. SOME GL-5 oils eat yellow metals like the brass synchro rings. SWEPCO does not. Also at some point it doesn't matter what kind of oil you have. If it needs synchros really bad oil isn't going to make a difference.

My crank that I stored lying on its side for several years had to be straightened. The machinist who fixed it told me to store it standing up afterwards, so I did. Can't tell you if the crank was bent before I put it in the garage, but L cranks are not known for their weakness...

The problem with the EPS is that it has a computer controller. The nice thing about the Suzuki setup is that it has the controller on board. I wonder how many of these things have a completely separate computer. I wouldn't go to the trouble of trying to install one that didn't have an integrated computer.

Cranks definitely do get bent in storage. I think the BEST way to store a crank is in a block with all the mains on. If that can't happen then I like the hanging idea. Don't want that sucker falling over on your toe...

I guess those tubes look thicker than they are. I thought they were like .134 or something. As far as removing spotwelds, my experience is that #1 doesn't work at all, and #2 works pretty well. I'd suggest that you not use the chisel like a chisel though. Just keep using the cutoff wheel until you grind all the way through. Maybe a light prying with the chisel, but you shouldn't have to try and cut the metal with the chisel. Another option is a spot weld cutter: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95343 Haven't tried a spot weld cutter myself, but others seem to like them.

I'd use the Zedd Findings frame rails. Their stuff is thicker than stock, but fits right and you won't spend as much time trying to figure out how to get it installed. I guess the next question is do you install one frame rail or both. I'd probably go with just the one if the other is perfect. I'd definitely do one at a time, regardless. As far as the TC bracket, just measure it from as many different places as you can, tack it in place, measure again. Measure a 3rd time, then when everything is square weld it in. I had measurements from the front of the frame rail, the top of the rail, diagonally from the opposite front corner, and from the inside of the frame rail. Also keep in mind that these cars weren't put together terribly accurately in the first place so if you take your time you'll probably end up with something better than stock. There is a chassis dimensions thread with measurements too, not sure if this will help you out or not: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=100401 I think your subframe connectors are thicker than is required. Not sure if you care about excess weight, but that's the price you'll pay for the extra thickness.

Yes. Fixed the info to include the S130.

Hey J when you post, please write a descriptive title so that people searching for info don't have to open your post to figure out what it is about. Maybe go through and read the rules again real quick: http://forums.hybridz.org/announcement.php?f=135&a=2 Thanks and welcome.