JMortensen

The 4 speed shifter has a longer shaft from the pivot to the ball, and hence a shorter throw. I have an early 70, so I cut it off right above the ball, welded it back on at a 90 degree angle pointing straight back, then bent it up so that it comes straight out the console hole. Then I cut it to the length I wanted and ran a die down it to thread on a stock ball. More info: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=96707

Been running a 4 speed truck shifter with the small nylon bushings in mine for 8 years. There was a thread on it a while back about short shifters. Apparently my ghetto version short shifter isn't as short as the Nissan Comp version, but it does work.

I'm pretty sure that body kit is sold by http://www.motorsportauto.com. I know that there are quite a few people running it or something very similar.

You can listen to whoever you want. John measured his car with a setback L6 vs an SR20DET car. I'll listen to him.

Unless someone like me swapped the shifters...

At this point I'll go out on a limb and say that something is not correct. I don't think I've ever seen cam duration over 300 degrees @ .050. It's like someone telling you that they run 100 degrees of timing advance or something.

325 degrees at .050??? With only .475 lift? I am having time swallowing that one.

Except the front strut inserts of course... Not sure about the answer to the original poster's question, but I think one difference is that the ZX TC rod bolts to the bottom of the control arm and the Z rod bolts to the top. Whether that means that the bolt spacing is different or the length is different to the point where the parts won't swap is something I don't know...

SWEPCO 201 is my preference. If you've been reading through the archives and seeing all these other threads that express other opinions, what makes you think that this one will be different though???

Try a little searching. There is a sticky post in the drivetrain forum that has info on several different front diff mounts. You won't find a poly mount, and the stock system with the strap and mount underneath is REALLY crappy, so you might look hard at the alternatives instead, including the one that bjhines showed above.

OK, NOW I get it. Since I'm not a computer geek I wouldn't have figured it out unless I saw Mr Fancypant's comments.

I'd check the zhome.com information first and see if you can figure it out. If you can't the other way to do it is to put the trans in a gear and mark the input and output shafts, and then spin the input until the output makes one revolution. Count the number of revolutions for the input, and that would tell you the gear ratio. You can then use a chart like the one on this page: http://www.geocities.com/z_design_studio/ to figure out which one you have. You can check more than one gear if you're not sure. If you do have a Nissan Comp transmission they're worth some $$$ these days, so definitely check it out.

What do you mean by "close ratio"? Do you mean a Nissan Comp transmission, or a 280 ZX transmission? I think zhome.com has a series of pictures which can help you discern which one you have...

10 pts means it will take your gas from 92 to 93 octane. Most of the stuff raises it 1 or 2 points which means from 92 to 92.1 or 92.2. Most octane boosters are Xylene which is 118 octane or Tolulene which is 114 octane or a mixture of both. It's pretty easy to figure out how much octane you'll end up with by determining the octane of your booster and then adding the octane per gallon and dividing the number of gallons in the tank. When I was running Tolulene I was putting in one gallon for 5 gallons of 92. So 92 x 5 + 114 / 6 = 95.6666666 octane.

The tubing is .072" thick. You can find the swaged tubes from Coleman Racing, AFCO, and any number of other circle track parts suppliers.

Man your work is freakin awesome... big time jealous of your skills over here. I haven't tried mine either, but here is my solution: Here is the thread on them: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=111435 Basically I took the stock tie rods, cut off the straight section before the bend and welded that into a circle track style swaged steel tie rod end. I had considered your solution, but I find that tapping a straight hole in a tube is pretty much impossible for me to do by hand. I guess most guys do that part on a lathe...