JMortensen

There isn't much room inside a Z strut tower. You're better off doing an adjustable TC rod for the caster.

Increased rotating mass is the big drawback, meaning slower acceleration and slower braking. The wheels will probably raise your car slightly, and then you'll want to lower the car down so that it "looks right" and you don't have a big gap between the fender and the tire. So then you end up with a car with very little available suspension travel. What's the solution? Stiffer springs and appropriately damped struts, which means a stiffer ride. Now your front end geometry is all F'ed up, and you might find yourself adding bumpsteer spacers or redrilling holes in the crossmember to fix this problem. If this all sounds like a reasonable amount of hassle, then go for it. Then again, there are lots of guys who just slap on the 17s or 18's, cut the springs, and run on the bumpstops all the time and don't know the difference...

Here's another non-technical perspective. Regardless of the weight on the tires you still have to get the mass of the car up to speed, so it would still take the same amount of hp to pull the weight, you'd just lessen the rolling resistance between the tires and the pavement. It's a bit similar in a way to downforce on a racecar. A 5000 lb car won't handle as well as a 1000 lb car with 4000 lbs of downforce. It's not the weight on the tires that makes the car handle, it's the weight on the tires in comparison to the weight of the car. In this case if you have a 4000 lb car that has 3000 lbs of lift for instance it would handle extremely poorly.

I searched "ford 8.8" and there were quite a few threads in the archives. I suggest you do the same.

I have pop ups allowed in Firefox and I get the PM notifications, but I have never ever seen a pop up ad emanate from here. I have not seen any outright porn ads, but have caught the "must be 18" ads at the top and bottom of the screen. Could be that I didn't see the porn-ish ones because I'm not usually paying attention though.

You might PM Austin, 240hoke and see if he'll respond here. He adapted Vette hubs to his Z. I know that the bearing sizes we use are VERY common domestic car sizes. The issues are going to be the seal (which I think is pretty easily dealt with), and finding the right hat depth and then making a caliper bracket.

I hacked together a 1/4" plate scattershield for my car. It bolts to the trans tunnel and basically covered the area around the feet, didn't go across the top of the tunnel. I had also considered a drag racing style Kevlar tranny blanket, but never got around to that one... You can see the passenger's side in this pic:

Wasn't Nissan Comp making a gasket like that back in the 80's? I thought they had one with separate gas filled fire rings like that...

Should be able to use a slip on rotor with the right hat offset. I'd go about looking for the wheel offset on the hub, then trying to match that to the hat depth on the rotor, and then that would have to match the caliper bracket on the strut.

L24, SU's, max cam lift .500

That's what happens if your entire post is in caps. The vBulletin software does that automatically. The reason it didn't happen in Tony's case is because he tried to capitalize "I" and so that one letter came in lower case. If he hadn't done that the first letter of each word would have been capitalized.

No help here, but take your caps lock off.

The question is which Z32's had the VLSD? If all of the NA cars did then that would be the one you should order. I'm not sure on that one though...

French stupidity: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhlERjW0bhw

Yes, Earnhardt didn't have a HANS device, and it would have saved his life in all likelihood. As of the last time I was at the track, 99% of club racers didn't have HANS devices either. His actual injury was from the weight of his head (and helmet) flinging forward in the impact. The strain was so great that it popped a hole in the base of his skull around the spinal cord, so a lighter helmet might also have saved his life. I believe that this was worsened by the seatbelts being looser than they should have. I'm not trying to sidetrack the discussion on helmets here and I don't want to turn this into a big Earnhardt argument. I was just making the point that if his head hadn't weighed as much the force on his skull wouldn't have been as strong, that's all.

I think one major difference is weight. The lighter the weight the less neck strain and injury in an accident. Not to mention the risk of basal skull fracture (Dale Earnhardt's injury) is reduced.

The 240SX OPEN replacement works. The 240SX VLSD replacement does not, because the VLSD has a larger shaft with more splines than the stock 280Z stub shaft or the S130T or Z31T CV shafts.

KAAZ and Cusco still make them as far as I know, and they have heavier clutch stacks with more disks. You can also choose between 1.5 way and 2 way lockup. I believe they're both around $900

I don't think it matters, but it is 2nd gen RX7. That part matters. Please use proper english and punctuation in the future. The ARP studs are 12mm x 1.5 thread pitch. If you have factory Nissan wheels you can use Toyota 4x4 lug nuts, as they have the same weird shank diameter. For anything else just use the appropriate acorn nut or cut the end off of an aluminum rim lug nut.

If you use a filter with a chrome cap on the end like the K&N's you have to watch that the velocity stack isn't too close to the cap. If you use an ITG or similar where the air can go straight down the carb throat the stack length is less critical, and you get the stack much closer to the end of the filter without really hurting flow. Stock Mikuni manifolds are short, and the stacks are long. So you need a fairly deep filter. Also keep clearance to the fender in mind as that can be a problem for some setups.

Gotta put the NSFW tag on stuff like this. I know none of the offices I've ever worked in would allow this stuff.

You can bend that bar pretty easily in a 12 ton press, I've done it myself. I wonder if you might not be able to bend it so that the end of the bar goes under the control arm and then run a short end link on the bottom. Looks like you have enough holes to choose from for end link mounting...

I don't see a control arm as an advantage vs an LCA and TC setup. You can't lengthen the control arm in that type of setup, and when the caster angles get extreme the arm starts to point forward, which makes it act differently than an arm that is perpendicular to the center line of the car (the reaction to this is discussed at the very beginning of this thread). It would also eliminate or at least make much more difficult the ability to add in adjustable anti-dive and front roll center. The potential benefits would be tire clearance and possibly weight and strength, but above and beyond that if there are any I'm not aware of them, and I'm not really worried about the weight or strength of the pieces as I've modified them. Floor with stock rails cut off: Pulling floor to SFC with sheet metal screws. Also shows custom piece Bad Dog and roostmonkey made for me: Stitching the SFC's to the floor: Cut the entire TC bucket and the supporting frame structure off: The seat bracket lined up with the SFC perfectly: Weird shaped hole cut into top of new TC box to line it up with bottom of frame rail: TC box setting on frame rail: Shot shows the now slotted TC rod box, forward gusset, the modified Bad Dog SFC connecting to the TC box, and the support from the box to the rocker tip. Angle iron gusset on top of TC box Mocking up the TC rod angle to make sure the rod didn't hit the box through the suspension travel.