JMortensen

Was out shopping yesterday and couldn't believe my eyes when this guy showed up in my rearview mirror... I slowed down a bit and he passed me doing about 60 mph, rear suspension completely bottomed!!! I was just happy to get the picture, as it's the first time I've caught an idiot like this on film.

I've worked for several corporations that actively monitored the internet activity to see if you were doing something you shouldn't, and several others that wouldn't let anyone except management have access to the internet at all. That's a company's prerogative, and I kinda feel like if they're dumb enough to require that then they'll have fewer tech savvy employees and suffer in that way. That's a very "theory X" way to deal with employees, and I tend to not get along well in theory X environments, hence that is the reason I workED at those places and no longer have anything to do with them. When you get hired you are making an agreement between yourself and the company who hires you. If the terms of that agreement become unacceptable to either side, then it should be terminated and you should go on your merry way. What I hate to see is people who feel victimized by an agreement that they themselves entered into. This goes for anyone, if you don't like your employer's policies you should leave. I left one job when they put cameras in and stated that they were going to be used to monitor their employees' breaks. That crossed the line for me. At my last job I watched so many of my fellow employees get fired that I couldn't take it anymore, so I left. Find a company that treats their people right, or start your own. Then you can be the "sucky" corporation. My own sucky corporation lets it's employees spend hours on Hybrid Z and also work on their cars during business hours. It's the best job I've ever had...

It could have been worse... at least it didn't break at the weld...

I'd definitely go 45s. Even on an L24 I'd go with 45s. This comes after watching a friend run his L16 on 40s and then 44s and seeing the difference it made.

Bolt it in. When you get serious and need door bars, then sell it to Auxilary and weld up your own...

Yeah, the lash needs to be close in order to properly assess the pattern. I don't have all this stuff commited to memory, but I'm looking at this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=113441 and BRAAP is saying that you can make the wipe pattern go further to the bottom by using a thinner lash pad. That seems to indicate to me that you need a thicker lash pad. I think you should clean the rockers, use the sharpie, and try your shim again. See if you can't cut the shim a little nicer, and give it another shot. Maybe try two, since that would be ~180.

Almost like BRE stripes, so people might think you just got the BRE stripes wrong...

You mean Sammy Hagar, right?

Just what it says. Great driving, tight track! http://www.motorcities.com/contents/07/2005-Lotus-Elise-Racing-Video_07DOB515504506.html

If you eyebrow the same area where you unshroud the valves on the head, you'll have a relatively smooth contour around the valve which will help flow. The valve will actually open into the chamber, so there will be a nice smooth curve around the valve head, then the cylinder wall will be right in the way if it hasn't been eyebrowed. Do the same thing you did on the head, lay the gasket on the dowels and mark the area to be eyebrowed, then break out the die grinder and get to it. Especially on an L28 there isn't much metal that can be removed, so it's not a very time intensive procedure. You need to be careful that you don't go too deep into the cylinder, but it would take a lot of effort to screw that one up I think. I think the recommendation is that you eyebrow no closer than .070 above the top piston ring, should be in the How to Modify book. That still means you're getting in there quite a ways. Be careful taking either the head or the block all the way out to 91mm. Do some searching and you may find it, but there was a thread maybe 3 years ago where that was discussed and it seems to me that there was some negative consequence on the flowbench from taking too much metal from around the valves.

I know they use a combination of Weber and Mikuni jets. Search for Dan Baldwin's old threads. He had some older ones where we got into a little detail, he might have more info if you PM him. Haven't seen him around as of late, but he was getting ~255 whp from his 45 SKs on a stroker motor.

Gardenia - Kyuss

To me this is like saying "Why not go with a crate motor that is already built? Edelbrock has been building crate motors from the carb to the oil pan for 50 years." It's not that crate motors are bad, but you can change it up a little bit here and a little bit there and make a better package for your specific application if you know what you're buying. I bought the cast rear calipers for my car. They were $5 more expensive and a special order, but I called Wilwood and they told me the cast calipers were actually more rigid than the forged calipers. I also got bridge bolts in the rear calipers. Piston sizes can be adjusted to suit. Pad types as well. Does Dave give you a choice of what pads you'll get, or does he just send out street pads? Maybe Dave can give you all of these options too, I honestly don't know. The point is that a prepackaged deal isn't necessarily the best way to go, it just keeps you from having to make choices. And for what it is worth, HD rotors are just heavier and have more cooling vanes. I'd stay away from HD rotors until I found that I was overheating the ultralight rotors. Additional rotating unsprung weight should be avoided...

Actually that depends on what size pistons you get. With the largest 1 3/4" pistons, I agree. But they also have 1 1/2" and 1 3/8" pistons as well, and with those a 7/8" master might be fine.

These might help: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=112184 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=113441 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=114802 For what its worth I've never had problems with the sharpie ink smearing. I cleaned the pad with brake cleaner to remove all the oil, then colored it all in, then let it dry for 30 seconds or so, and I was left with a sharp line where the rocker hit the cam, sharper than either of those threads using machinist's blue showed. Don't know the answer to your retainer question. I got the Schneider retainers with the valvesprings...

Just want to be sure you know that you don't really need to take anything too far apart. Just pull the valve cover off, loosen up the adjuster, pry the rocker off, clean it and color it with the sharpie, pop it back on, adust the lash then turn the motor over a couple revolutions by hand and move on to the next one. Maybe that's what you meant by "dismantle".

If the wipe pattern is right then you don't need new lash pads. Did you check every valve? It's kind of anal, but you might try that and see if one is off. Bad machine work can sometimes result in that type of situation, or sometimes if one valve gets burnt or something someone will do a quick fix and cut that one seat, and then all the valves aren't at the same position in the head. Other than that I'd just warn you to be careful about going too tight on the lash.

I thought you said you checked the wipe pattern and it was good... if the pattern is good then you don't need to change anything. If you're unsure then you should check it again or have someone who knows how to do it check it for you. I have a big problem with Schneider or any cam manufacturer telling you what size lash pads you need. They don't know how far the valves are cut or the seats sunk into the head, so I don't believe that they or anyone can tell you without testing what pads you need.

Different cam manufacturers advise different lash adjustments, but it's better to run them a little loose than a little tight. The old saying is "Quiet valves burn". My aftermarket cam came with a recommendation of .006 and .008 hot and that's the tightest I've seen. Usually I think .008 and .010 is more common.

They are really the same basic thing. As Juan says on the JSK website, they mark up the price on the calipers and you can put the kit together cheaper than you can buy it from him. You can choose from any of the narrow mount Wilwood calipers for the JSK kit. I purchased buy have not yet used Superlite II's in the front and narrow mount Dynalites in the back. When I bought my kit he wasn't yet installing helicoils, so mine will use bolts with nuts. I don't know which is ultimately stronger, but I think I'd tend to prefer bolts and nuts. The one thing I can say against Juan is that he kinda disappeared there for a couple years. Dave has been in business for a long time and has a solid rep.

I'm basing what I said on the many many dyno sheets and threads that I've seen here in the last few years. The turbo cam is advanced 4 degrees from the NA cam so that lowers the rpm where peak power occurs (cam timing is backwards from ignition timing). Seems to be around 5500 from what I've seen. NA cam seems to peak at 6000, maybe 6250. I've also swapped cams several times in my own Z, ported the head, and used different induction systems and seen their effects. I don't have the experience of a BRAAP or a TonyD and I definitely value their advice, but I don't consider myself a little person and I don't think you should either. I've got experience that tells me what I said is generally correct. If you think I'm wrong then we can argue that point. But don't say that we should wait for someone more qualified to decide the issue for us, or that I shouldn't have made the statement I made in the first place. That's not giving either of us enough credit.

Could also run a crossmember spacer. JTR has a 1/2" thick one, but you could run just thick enough to get the necessary clearance.

There's only one gasket, or at least mine only came with one. It's the one that seals the input shaft cover thingy inside the bell housing. Silicone the front and rear housings to the center steel part, then there is a rear seal for the mainshaft. That's about it I think. You could make that gasket with some gasket paper, or just substitute silicone.