JMortensen

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=106457 Note the section about adjusting toe with those arms. Then note this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=89111

Looks like its just what I needed. I'm finding that it takes quite a bit of effort to start the tube bending, then once it starts it's a lot easier to keep it bending. The bends look REALLY good. This is the first bend I did. It is the part of the shoulder bar that is going to go behind my seat.

Also why you don't dragrace with c-clipped axles...

Did you brain fart there 280Z28? R230 is in the title of the very thread you're posting to asking if anyone has ever heard of an R230. Probably wouldn't be there if we'd never heard of it, don't you think? Same thing with Matt K. Please read the whole thread before you post to it. Both of these diffs, the shortnose R200 and R230 are discussed at length right here. Can't make it any more obvious than that.

Could be any piece of linkage or even the carpet inside. Why don't you start disconnecting things from the carbs back to the pedal and see which one is causing the stiction? You might also search for throttle cable too. There's a lot of V8 stuff but a few of us have done cable swaps to our triples too, and that eliminates a lot of the issues with bad joints and such in the linkage.

I'll no doubt be posting as my cage comes together, so you can bet that I'll say how it works out. Dr hunt has this bender already and he says its great, so I would expect my experience to be similar. By the way, you can probably get your square and rectangular tubing (and maybe the DOM too) locally and then you wouldn't have to pay to ship it.

My experience with that bender was not so good. I didn't use angle iron, I used a long section of pipe, but should do roughly the same thing. The problem that I had was where the tube bent it kinked on the inner radius.

I'll have a look at that again later today. I think I tried it already and it wouldn't fit, but I'll check again and post whatever I find.

If you're running flares why not take advantage of that fact and run a wider rim with the correct size tire on it? 16 x 9 with a 255 or so should fit if the offset is right...

Search before you post. I know this has come up a few times in the last 6 months or so. You might try searching for Kirkey and Ultra Shield. Looks like you've been really busy on that car. Lots of rust repair. Looks good.

N42 heads aren't worth a whole lot, although maybe they're hard to come by in WI. You might consider just finding one that doesn't need a bunch of work. Even if you have to have it shipped you have to consider how much labor you're going to put into a head that is all seized up. Cam towers, valve guides, valves, etc... New head starts to look like a bargain...

I tried everything from a heat gun to a flap disk to a wire wheel to remove the tar from the bottom of the car. What worked the best for me was a propane torch and a scraper, then finish with the wire wheel. Just put the heat on the tar until it starts to bubble, then scrape it off. Give it a try before you do the whole thing with a flap disk...

What parking brake??? What fuel line bracket??? I'm SURE that I could hammer it in place. But I don't need to. The car is upside down on a rotisserie so I can take my time and cut it to fit nicely. The reason for wanting to weld it is to use the structure of the mount to strengthen the trans tunnel. The mount is pretty damn stout. Just seems like if I welded it in then that would make the tunnel more stout, and since the control arm mounts are right there too, that might be a good thing. It sounds like you did the right thing by making the mount narrower so you avoided all of this stuff. Seems like just notching the mount is easier than all of that, because if you move it too far then there is a lip on the back of the trans tunnel that gets in the way. I'd have to grind the whole lip off all the way around the trans tunnel to get it to move into position.

Or you can section about 2" from the end of the strut. That way if you penetrate too far you can just hit it with the die grinder and burr with no extension at all. There are extended die grinders and long shank burrs, but it just seems easier/safer to do the cutting near the top to me.

That's one of the things that drives me nuts about people running stock camshafts with turbos and advertising it like it's something to be proud of. You wouldn't need all that boost if the valves opened up a little farther and longer. It's damn near free hp, considering a regrind is ~$65, but it seems like a lot of guys would rather spend a couple grand on a bigger turbo and a bigger intercooler instead.

The easiest thing to do on exhaust is buy prebuilt mandrel bends. You can get them from Jegs, Summit, even JC Whitney. I just received this tubing bender yesterday: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/6614,,_3rd-Generation-Speedway-Hydraulic-Round-Tubing-Bender.html?itemNo=TUBING+BENDER Looks good but I haven't tried it yet, tubing should be arriving in the next few days.

DOM is mild steel so you don't have to do anything special. Welds just fine with my MM135.

205 fits right on a 7" rim. It's not the biggest tire you can fit on the rim, but it's the one that fits right.

I was also thinking I'd weld the thing in. Anyone see a reason not to?

Now that you mention it I can see what you mean about the hole being on the wrong side, and I can see that redrilling the hole would take care of that issue. I don't think the placement of the reinforcing piece really matters one way or the other. With regards to the other issue, mine sits about an inch too low, and that flared area is what is stopping it from sliding all the way up until the bolt holes line up. So I think the mount is going to get cut. Not a biggee, I was more concerned with alerting others.

FedEx doesn't send ANYTHING without insurance. If no value is declared it is still insured for up to $100. When a driver leaves a package on the doorstep, FedEx is still responsible if you come home and it isn't there. You can still file a claim with them. You'll have to prove the value, but I think you can at least get some money back on it. A lot of times if you call FedEx they'll contact the driver and he can remember where if he delivered to the wrong address or stuck it under a bush or something.

Wouldn't some serious attention need to be given to the oil pump pickup and the pan if you leaned the engine over very far?

Anyone else tried to install this in an early 70? Mine is not fitting. It's not that the part is built wrong, but there is a little flared edge on the sheet metal that it sits against which prevents it from going all the way up in the tunnel. The solution is going to be to notch the front end of both sides of the mount about 1/2". I've got mine stripped on a rotisserie so its easy to see what is going on, but I figured I'd share for those of you on your back trying to see through 30 years of caked on grease with a drop light. Here's a picture of the flared piece that interferes with the installation: Here is the mount laid in the trans tunnel showing the part that needs removal for it to fit: