JMortensen

Now that I actually read the post and look at the auction, this has already been posted. Here is the other thread that was put in the V8 forum. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=115847 At least your title was good... His original title was something like "What do you think" or something like that...

I think that's correct. My 4.11 R200 came from a 200SXT.

Can't help you with any of that. Hopefully someone else will know.

Why is this in the V8 board? Switching to Non-Tech.

No, because they changed the ID of the ring gear in 76. You **might** be able to fit that locker into a later 240SX (180SX over there???) R180, and then put that in your Z. There is info on the later R180 swap into the early Z in the "What diff do I need?" sticky thread in this forum.

One .3 second reduction is not spectacular. But .3 here and .3 there start to add up. Light flywheel first, then light wheels next would be my suggestions. Those two things will make a huge difference. As Tony said, where the weight is is also important, which is why I haven't gotten around to a light driveshaft. It's such a small diameter piece that there are a lot of other places to lose weight before you go there. It's not one big thing that makes a car faster. It's a hundred little things.

The clevis you're looking at has a .48" opening, so it would be awfully thick metal and probably pretty heavy. I've got some reservations too about the bending load on a long hockey stick. I think you want that part as short as you can conceivably make it. A long flat piece of steel might want to bend like a spring. I'm REALLY unsure about that, but hopefully someone else can tell you better than I can if it is in fact a problem.

In addition to all of that, shortening the TC rod makes the caster curve more extreme so you start losing caster as the rod goes past horizontal. Also John has mentioned some effect to the camber curve, I never really got that part. I suppose that as the caster shifts negative the control arm would be pulled back and that might make it move away from it's farthest outward point which would affect camber. Maybe that's what he is talking about? Regardless, I still see the rod end type TC rod like AZC sells as having a HUGE advantage over stock in that it has so much less friction and the caster adjustability. I think the TC rods are longer than that tie rod you've got there so my concern would be that you might need some sort of extension or turnbuckle in the middle. Also I don't know if I'd be comfortable with the little spring clip holding the pin on the clevis. Probably not an issue but if some piece of road debris caught it it could pull the clip right out. Not very likely, but I'd use a bolt.

Oops! Forgot to mention something. If you go SA and try to roll the barrel up for less severe recoil, DO NOT GET RUBBER GRIPS! Stick with wood grips. The rubber will get traction on your hand and prevent the rounded part of the grip from sliding in your palm, which is what it does when the barrel comes up.

Stock gasket is 1.2mm, isn't it? Crushes to something like .052" I thought...

I have basically that same configuration but I shaved the head a bit and I have about 11:1 and at sea level I need about 95 or 96 octane with a .490/280 cam. It is true that you don't need as much octane at altitude. Some stations that I filled up at in CO had 85, 87, and 89 instead of the sea level 87, 89, and 91 octane that we have here. I don't think you're screwed. If you have problems with pinging, I'd go to a bigger camshaft to fix. I bet you wouldn't have any trouble with a cam as big as the one I'm running.

I saw them at a club in Seattle, maybe a year and a half ago, nobody knew who they were. There were literally less than 500 people there. I think it was $7 per ticket. My sister-in-law is a music nut and she found out about them and that's the only reason I was there. They were AWESOME live, and we were right at the stage, directly in front of the singer leaning on his speaker. I have their original EP and their album, and the recorded stuff is so so, but the live show kicked ass! I think the live show is a lot looser and more stonerrock-ish. (which I like). They're coming back to town, $35 a ticket in a large venue, and I'm not going to go. I have a feeling that the show from the 2nd balcony 1/2 way back just wouldn't be as enthralling. But if you like Sabbath and Zeppelin, it's worth checking them out live when they come to your area for sure.

I'd suggest a Freedom Arms .454 Casull. Counterintuitive, I know, but when I was 14 and weighed 120 lbs I was able to shoot the 240 grain factory ammo one handed, and that load would definitely take down a deer at 100 yards. A lot of design that went into the grip of that revolver. I think Grumpy kind of alluded to this but the double actions are designed not to raise the muzzle as much. A Bisley Ruger or the FA with the rounded grip gives you a TON of muzzle lift compared to a DA revolver, but that's eating up that energy that otherwise gets transferred directly to your palm. The WORST thing you can do with a SA revolver is put compensator ports on it, but it's a fairly common mistake. I should say that my Uncle was the president of FA in the mid 80s, so all of my experience with the gun (including shooting 340 grain custom handloads made by JD Jones himself) and most of these ideas came through him. I would not get a Super Redhawk in .454 or anything like that, because of the grip design. It would beat your hand up rather quickly. Other than that, if you're not into getting slapped in the hand by a DA grip design, a Ruger Bisley in .44 mag or .41 mag would also be sufficient, but I like the idea that you can load up the .454 if you want and take on just about anything. The TC Contender is a great gun, but it is brutal to shoot IMO. My friend had one in .44 mag with the 14" barrel and also had a .223 barrel for it. We handloaded some shells fairly hot and took it to a pistol silhouette range. I did pretty good at the 200 yard silhouettes, practiced for a while then hit 9/10 with open sights when we were actually going for it, after we had gotten comfortable getting into those weird lay down positions to fire accurately at that range. At the end of the day I had shot maybe 50 rounds through it. The trigger guard had ripped off the skin on the knuckle on my ring finger. Getting a Contender in 7mm-08 is not a good idea if you don't like recoil, although I haven't shot one with a muzzle brake, and that might make a huge difference. I haven't been THAT into shooting since I was about 16 or 17, so I'm way out of the loop as to the last 10 years worth of innovation.

That sounds like a lot of porting, unless it is just necked down right at the end of the manifold. If the whole runner would have to be ported, unless it was sold to someone who could do it themselves it would probably be cheaper to buy a manifold with the correct size runners I would think...

I don't know if you're blind, but you need to use better titles in the future. I fixed this one. Make the title descriptive enough so we know what it is about before we open the thread up.

If its an L20A manifold, the manifold is pretty much worthless. That's going to drop it down. I haven't seen 40's go for as cheep as the other guys here, so I'd still say you might get $500 out of them.

Good point Terry. If you search you'll find threads about this, including one from bjhines where he shows pictures of the stock front crossmember that's been cracked from the stress. Solid mounting the mustache bar as well should eliminate that problem.

Watch the politics guys... So that Audi is pretty damn cool, eh?

I've been told at every HPDE that I've gone to that insurance will cover damage, because it is considered a driving school. A time trial or an open track day that isn't a school would not be covered. I've never actually tried to make an insurance claim, but that's what I've been told repeatedly...

I've seen used ones come up as cheap as $7K, and I'm pretty sure that $7K one had a complete drivetrain too.

Lots of racers solid mount the diff. I think the issue is that the brackets that attach to the chassis have to be strong enough and have to spread the load well. Cover those bases and I think you're good to go.

Boise fits that bill. It was a little to small town for me, but it fits your qualifications perfectly.

I'd look for an old GT2 car. The 240s are so uncompetitive in that class its not even funny and I've seen them show up CHEAP just randomly over the years.

The purpose of this FAQ is to establish the weight differential between the LS1 and the iron block SBC. We want FACTS on this thread people. Please weigh what you've got and post it here. We're starting slowly: LS1 Block: 92 lbs T56 trans with shift fork, bellhousing, shifter, block off plate for flywheel: 138 lbs.

OK, that's enough. We're going to start a FAQ instead of keeping this thread going. If you have FACTS to offer (read: parts on an accurate scale) please add to the FAQ.