JMortensen

Read this all the way through. He installs incorrectly, then fixes: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/47525-how-to-mount-them-there-zg-flares/

Here's just a couple things that I've noticed about different flares on Zs: 1.ZGs are almost universally installed too low in the rear. That's where they line up best with the body lines, but unless you're running a 20" tall tire on a 13" rim like they did when those flares were originally produced, you're going to rub if you put them so that the top of the flare is close to the belt line of the car. 2. Subtle Z is big enough for 275/35/15 Hoosier tires which a lot of people use for autoxing. 3. The 940 is in between the YZ and the subtle in width. I think it's pretty close to the ZGs in terms of rooms for tires. 4. The BAMF ZGs will fit around the same size tires as the YZ, but probably has the same issue with people putting them on too low (not positive about that). Is there a reliable source for these? 5. The IMSA flares were originally used with a 16 x 15 wheel in the back. I've got 15x14s on mine and they fit really nicely. In the front you'd need to size down to at least a 12" wide rim, might have to go 10s to clear when the wheels are turned. Probably depends on offset, etc too. The rear flares are friggin gigantic.

One problem that you will have with using another spindle is that it was designed for the strut angle in the car that it came from. If you put a 280ZX front strut on a Z, for example, the camber is all F'd up. I can't remember which way it goes, it's been 25 years since I did it, but I want to say it had 4 degrees positive camber or something like that.

Took this one the other day. Needs bath.

One of the very few FG dealers worth buying from.

I never understood why nobody makes a slip on rotor for a Z. I suppose the rotor hat would have to be stupid deep to work on a stock hub, but with all the aftermarket hubs, nobody has done it. Probably screws everything up: change the hub, then the LCA hits and snowballs everything else from there, but that seems like something that would have been figured out by now. FWIW, you would move the rack BACK to increase Ackerman. I did it, then actually mapped it out on paper. It didn't help much unfortunately, really the difference was negligible. All the details on what I measured and what the results were are in this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/97092-toe-changes-for-track-use/page-4 Totally agree with Chickenman on the tapered rollers. If you really want to DIY your suspension, look at circle track parts. They've got everything: BIG bearing hubs (wide 5), adjustable upper and lower control arms, many different steering rack configs, tubular sway bars, cheap (good) shocks, good brakes, etc.

IIRC, the stock driver's side can go to the other side, and then the short one that I sent goes on the driver's side. Doesn't matter though. If it fits in there and doesn't bind at full droop it will be OK.

I think the CV has about 1 7/16" worth of plunge, so at 1" you should be fine You can double check me on that pretty easily. From full droop to full compression on my car the length change of the shaft was 3/8". I sent that batch of axles out and Jamie twisted one right away with his 600 hp turbo V8 drag racer. I figured out what the problem was (incorrect tempering) and recalled the ones that had been shipped without the correct heat treatment, had them treated, and reshipped them out with a different shorter axle. They way they were the first time (lengthwise) was really OK, that's why your friend didn't have any issues. I don't have a firm hp or torque number that they will fail at without the correct heat treat. The earlier shafts that I sent out were from a different machinist and so were correctly tempered the first time, so wouldn't have the obvious burnt looking part at the ends. If you just want better ones, the stuff that Joe is selling now is stronger 4340 and has the correct heat treat.

If the axle you reinstalled doesn't have that burnt look on the end, then it didn't get the second round of heat treating. If it did, as long as it isn't bottomed out, should be good to go.

No. I was selling the shorter CV shafts through my company M2 Differentials. I also had Z31T companion flanges made for the 27 spline stub axles. I had an issue with one batch of shafts that I produced. None of that has anything to do with Modern Motorsports or Chequered Flag. I gave up on Joe's supplier, because like I said, I got promises and no parts for about a year. I had someone else make the parts that had issues. Those problems aren't in any way related to what Joe is selling.

Looks like one of my CV axles, yes.

I honestly don't know what kind of forces there are there. Would take some actual measurements to clarify. I think the idea is that any part of the drivetrain that can move before the car actually accelerates will do so. Soft motor mounts will squish, mustache and control arm bushings will flex, etc.

I think my axles were 4130 and similar heat treat. What is probably the important factor is the axle diameter and spline count on the Z31 CV vs the Porsche 930 CV. I can't recall specs on those, you'd have to dig a bit for them. EDIT--Snapped axle looks like one of the batch that I had to have heat treated again because they came out of the machinist not hard enough. They were induction hardened on the ends to a pretty high number. Want to say it was mid 50s on the Rockwell C scale.

I believe Joe's stuff is 4340, double heat treated. That's what it was going to be when I was trying to get the supplier to finish it for a year. Finally gave up. Joe is actually able to get the guy to move.

The strongest set up you can get with the stock longnose R200 is Chequered Flag's 930 deal. Chromoly stubs for the diff, chromoly companion flanges, 930 CVs with chromoly races, and chromoly shafts. The limiting factor with that setup is the 1.25" diameter of the stub axle.

It's not just the weight of the transmission on the mounts. Particularly when you shift there is a lot of stress on the transmission mount. I ground mine for clearance with the L6 and ended up snapping it in half shifting to 3rd. V8, sticky tires, etc, you're going to be putting a lot more force on there than I was with my 240ish whp 6 cyl. Of course, I also weakened the thing by grinding on it...

This might help too: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/54124-step-by-step-installing-an-lsd-into-your-open-diff/

The strut housings are longer on the 280 and the insulators are taller and the rear strut towers are different. The mustache bars swap, the control arms swap, etc. On the 240 the distance between the diff flange and the companion flange gets shorter when you lift the car up in the air. I think it's pretty safe to say that Nissan wouldn't build a car with bottomed halfshafts from the factory, so there must be a difference. Seems like the relative height of the diff to the companion flange is different, and that must be why it works.

Related info on shortening stock halfshafts. Nice to have in the same place: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/103890-half-shaft-shortening/

I had them making both.

I wasn't saying don't do coilovers in the rear, I was saying don't section in the rear. Coilovers are a good idea IMO, and on that previous thread you linked to I related my experience running a 240 with coilovers on unsectioned struts. Because the 240 top already drops the rear an inch or an inch and a half, you just don't need to do it. Keith is right in that you could run camber plates in the front and get both ends level, plus you could add some neg camber in front. That might not be such a bad idea if you're looking to get it done without the actual work of sectioning, but the actual job of sectioning itself is pretty easy if you have the tools.

If you have a 280 with 240 islolators, I would leave the rear end alone and section the front. If you section the rear there is a good chance that you won't be able to get enough ride height in back. If you level it out or rake it a bit, you'll be near the bumpstops in the front.

The supplier makes fantastic stuff, but I had a very hard time getting them to actually produce anything. Joe @ Modern Motorsports seems to have figured out how to get the guy to move. Sounds like Whitehead is having the same problem I did. I spent about a year waiting for them to do the 930 CV conversion. Finally gave up. Joe got them to actually produce the thing...

Should work fine. When I ran 4" sleeves I just set them up so that the spring hit the top and bottom perches with the adjuster all the way up.

http://www.modern-motorsports.com/z31-half-shafts.html