JMortensen

I checked on that a while back cygnusx1, and found that Wilwood recommends that you shim between the rotor and the hat to fix a warped rotor. Personally I think I'll just have mine turned too, but that was the official word on that situation anyway.

OK, thanks. BTW, looks NIIIIICE!!!

Is it necessary to have a pusher AND a puller fan on the LS swaps? Do they run that hot? Just curious.

You should disassemble and inspect the ZX distributor. The vacuum advance mechanism falls apart all the time, if you're looking for performance, disable it completely so that it can't move at all. I wasn't aware of the hotter spark from the ZX distributor, but it has a better advance curve to it, that's for sure. Only 17 degrees mechanical advance, vs something like 22 or 24 degrees on the earlier distributors IIRC. That means you can disconnect the vacuum advance run more advance at idle and still not have too much total. I'd start around 18 degrees at idle, and try +- a few degrees from there.

You need to start an album here, then put the picture in your album. Then go to the picture in the album, right click on it, choose Properties and copy and paste the location. Then you can put that URL inside your img brackets and it should work. Right now you're trying to link to your own hard drive, that doesn't work. You need to put the picture somewhere that is accessible to the rest of us.

Pressure should be 15-20 at idle, and at about 3500 rpm it will max out, I think my stock springs maxed at 60 or so, put one comp spring in and it goes up to 75 or so max now. As to the slow resposne on the gauge--It's the ferrule. (sp?) I had the same problem with my Autometer when I first installed it. I was using the crappy nylon tube with the brass ferrule. What happens is as you tighten it down the ferrule twists and cuts off the flow to the gauge. I replaced the tube with the copper stuff, and voila. If you're already using the copper tube, then you're just tightening it too much. I put a wrench on the fitting, started it up, and tightened it up just enough to stop it leaking last time.

If you have no balance bar then you need to use the middle g rating on the spreadsheet. IMO you should plumb in an adjustable proportioning valve into the rear brakes so that you can get it dialed in a little closer.

Funny that this thread should pop back up. I think as of last weekend I've talked the wife out of her #5. We were even talking about taking a trip to Boise in April. Gogriz, I don't own a home here. I owned a home in CA, but had to sell when it didn't rent very quickly after we moved to WA. That whole rent + mortgage + no job thing really sucks down the finances quickly. Sucks too, because it's gotta be worth at least twice what I paid, probably 30 or 40% more than I sold it for. I do kind of worry about the housing bubble, but then I really want this move to be my last move for the next decade or so, so I'm not going to be worried about the short term value in the next place. Thinking really hard right now about ID and NM. Those are appealing due to cost of housing and cost of living, but don't really know too much about them other than that. Just a lot of anecdotal "its a great place to live" type stuff. I think we're just going to start visiting different places we're interested in. She also mentioned buying a ~$200K house and a used RV and taking extended vacations (which I can do with my biz), so that's kind of an interesting development.

Good point preith. There's two different things that happen with the pedal effort. One is the leverage ratio of the pedal, and the other is the size of the master. Unless you know what the ratios are beforehand it's hard to say how soft the pedal will be. One thing I think we can all agree on is that iskone has the duals already. If the pedal is stiff now, it's going to be less stiff with the bigger calipers on. Exactly how much has yet to be seen.

It's been a while since I've actually seen the inside of a master cylinder, but aren't there 2 primary cups in there, so basically there are two cylinders inline with each other? I'm pretty sure that's the way it works. If you look at the sheet, if you bias the bar all the way to the front, you're still only capable of 1.03g decel. With the masters reversed and the 5/8" in front, the nominal (with the bias adjuster dead center) braking g is 1.18.

http://sth2.com/Z-car/Brakemath.xls It's a little confusing figuring out all the variables, but if you look on Wilwood's site they have the brake pad sizes there. I used .4 as my coefficient of friction based on Cary's advice when I was figuring mine out. What this doesn't tell you is how mushy the pedal will be. I expect it will be on the mushy side with cylinders that small. Single masters are cheap though (assuming your holes are a standard size), so if it was wrong you wouldn't have to spend a whole lot to fix it. I wonder about the 5/8" on the rear though. Might need to switch the masters front to rear.

Just remember you have a big standard deduction of $10K (?) on your taxes IIRC. So unless you're donating a whole shitload of stuff you won't be able to claim it on taxes, plus you'd need to itemize which is a lot more complicated on the tax forms, etc. Craig's List, garage sale, that kind of thing is your best bet IMO.

Can't help you too much, but I did make a 1200 mile move from CA to WA a couple years back. We rented a U-haul and a car trailer. Had a full house worth of stuff, and I think it cost us about $2500 by the time it was all said and done. Little feedback on U-Haul, I will NEVER EVER use them again. They gave us a diesel truck, not a turbo diesel, so we ended up going up any grade at about 32 mph. They dropped off a car trailer at my house the night before we moved, but the lights didn't work. So me and a friend spent about an hour fixing the trailer wiring in the dirt at 12:30AM so that I could get up at the crack of dawn the next morning. Then I had a move to make up here from one house to the next. The differential of the truck we got sounded like it was about to fall out. There were no windshield wiper blades (in Seattle). The seat was held in by one bolt. I could go on and on about how crappy the truck was, but the worst part was on the 2nd trip when I found the GAY PORN in the truck!!! I was pretty pissed. So I walked into the U-Haul thinking I'd make a big stink about it, but the only other guy in there was SCREAMING at the dude behind the counter, so no luck. It was fun asking him if they provided gay porn with all of their rentals though. Talk about a blank stare. Then I made a list for him of everything that I found wrong with the truck, he looks at it and says "Oh yeah. We don't send that truck on any long moves just for those reasons." So I'm thinking to myself what would have happened had it broke down on the side of the road. I don't think the pimply faced U-Haul kid would have been out there transferring all my crap from one truck to the other! Assholes!!! On another note Matman had to rent a truck recently to move a bunch of Z parts, and he went with Ryder. What a difference! Huge truck, 2005 model, turbo diesel, thing was practically brand new. Well kept, ran bitchin. Ryder good, U-Haul bad... One thing that I've seen lately that looks kinda cool is this Pods thing that you can have delivered to your home. They basically drop off a huge storage container. You fill it and call the company, they throw it on a truck and take it where you want it and drop it at the new place. Don't know if that would work for you though, as you live in an apartment. But it does look convenient. In your case unless you have a bunch of bulky expensive furniture, I'd recommend selling whatever you can and buying again when you get there. Pretty much all of our furniture was garage sale or hand me down type stuff, and I think we could have gotten a much smaller truck to pack up my garage and tow the Z and might have saved quite a bit of money on the move, which then could have been used to buy more garage sale type furniture when we got here.

Congratulations. I have compressor envy... Be sure and update as to noise it puts out and whether you feel the pump is big enough. I was considering that same compressor, and I'm sure quite a few of us have looked at it at one time or another.

Front struts are a good upgrade for the 510 folks, so I'd keep them and sell on ebay.

Stitch welding is the way as far as I know. I've never heard anyone espouse the benefits of spot welding and full seam welding is supposed to be less stiff than stitching, but stitch welding is pretty common: http://www.betamotorsports.com/services/index.html (click chassis and suspension) http://www.rally.subaru.com/rally/servlet/CarBuildingDetail?part=1&imageId=6

I stitch welded mine, and that is considerably harder, especially underneath.

Sounds like you haven't pulled the pumps apart. I'd be curious to find out if the gears or the case of the pump are really badly scored or anything like that. Pretty bizarre problem, as L6 pumps are usually very reliable. I'd consider replacing the oil pump drive again, but this time replace it and the gear on the crank together. You say the distributor works fine, but its at the end of a very long shaft which goes through the timing cover as well, so I think it might be somewhat isolated from vibration or out of round problems that could be screwing up the pumps. Kind of a SWAG, but that's pretty much all I've got... Other than that the thing that usually ruins the pumps is metal in the engine. I kinda doubt that you could have enough metal in there to trash 4 pumps but not to screw up anything else, which makes me think that the shaft or the crank gear are misaligned, causing the pump to grind itself to pieces.

Sounds like you know what's up. I ran my timing retarded to pass smog when I first got my Z. Same thing. Dead below 2500, then the mech advance kicked in and the thing took off. Thing is, it was actually still slow, but it felt so much better that it felt like it went like a bat outta hell. Get a timing light on it. If you can't get any more timing, then you'll have to pull the distributor shaft and rotate it one tooth. You should be running about 15-20 degrees at idle, or somewhere in the 32 to 38 degrees total advance range.

Congrats! Good to see the Hybrid Z guys represented.

No, because the axles are only 3/16" or 1/4" inside the drums. You'd have to shorten the control arms and the halfshafts to narrow the track, then your camber would be really bad (positive even).

Here is Norm's writeup, FWIW: http://www.zcar.com/forums/read.php?f=1&i=438298&t=438298

That's the funniest shiza I've ever seen! Like the VW gang symbol...

This was my impression as well.