JMortensen

Agreed and I'd be pretty damn impressed at 325, but there are some super high rpm L series putting out some higher hp numbers than 325. John quoted Sunbelt as saying they got 370 from their super high strung L24 recently...

It doesn't come with another key. The balancer should be tight, but you should be able to push it on by hand. I put a super thin layer of anti-seize on the inside of the balancer, and I was able to pull it off by hand last time I took it off.

Yeah, I'm not buying that one either. No matter what he's done to it that just ain't gonna happen.

I had the same experience with 280Z factory weatherstrips (and they were EXPENSIVE). I'm going the JC Whitney route next time.

I think trouble is right, but could you maybe drill out all the holes and use some bigger head bolts. I know there is a bigger headbolt, what is it diesel Maxima bolts or something? At least that way you wouldn't have to redo all of the machining to the block.

L24 has a pointer and the L28 has a thing that looks like a sawblade with a bunch of teeth and also has number stamped on it. This is because the L28 has a single mark on the crank pulley and the L24 has a bunch of marks on the pulley. At least that is the way it works with NA engines.

You don't need to cut the struts to install that kit. SECTIONING the struts is what you're talking about, and a search on sectioning will get you all the why's and how's of doing it. If you're just going a little lower you don't need to section, but if you are going to really lower the car it is necessary. For a street car I wouldn't bother. Do something like the kit you linked to and maybe some poly bushings and sway bars and that you'll have that thing feeling 100% better.

I ran autox for 6 years with a stock oil pan, about 4 of those years I was on slicks. Was there some oil starvation? Maybe, but that engine eventually came out because the damper came apart and screwed up the front of the crankshaft. If you want to do something that will REALLY make a difference I think cleaning up the casting and painting the block and all that isn't the most effective thing you can do. I'd suggest a trapdoor oil pan like the Nissan Comp pan or the Arizona Z Car pan. Beyond that you might consider an Accusump system that forces oil into the system if the pressure drops. I'm running the AZC pan and it works just fine. The reason I bought it was my friend spun a main bearing on a roadrace track due to oil starvation and our cars were just about the same in the corners. I think that in an autox this isn't a problem because the turns are so fast the engine doesn't have time to starve long enough to cause damage.

Putting the myth to rest was talked about at length with Dave from AZC, who seemed to only be able to say that his intake won a car show, and point to customers who liked their new carb setup. See here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=92930 The problem is that putting a new 4 barrel on a car with worn out SU's and listening to the reaction of the owner isn't a good test of the performance of the 4 barrel. It IS a good test of what is most likely going to happen to people who buy a 4 barrel intake since all of these people are buying the intake to FIX A PROBLEM. FWIW, see if you can find some posts from guys who just put the Ztherapy rebuilt SU's on their car. Here is one from another board: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17363&highlight=Ztherapy The owner is just as emphatic about the huge power increase they get. He claims it "feels like he gained 25 hp". Testing new to new would be the only way to resolve the issue. My major issue with the 4 barrel is that it is a down draft carburetor. I am sure the carb flows 390 cfm on a V engine, not so sure that it would on a Z, because there is a hood clearance issue and the turn below the carb is very sharp. How the intake can make that sharp turn and maintain the full 390 cfm is the issue for me. I would bet dollars to donuts that new Ztherapy carbs would be at least the equivalent of a new 4 barrel, and the bored SU's would be a big improvement over the 4 barrel. The bored SU's flow 350 cfm and it doesn't have to make that sharp turn. The mixture issue remains unanswered also, but I remain convinced that it isn't a "performance upgrade" from a new set of SU's. Maybe we should talk about AZC's bitchin oil pan so I can tell everyone how much I like it. Feel like I'm always the naysayer for Dave. Nothing personal Dave...

That happened to a friend of mine who had #472. The auction closed and the buyer backed out. It was auctioned for $8500 IIRC, then sold later for $7200. I understand the premium paid for a '69, but I'm starting to think that times are changing. These guys can't all be blowing smoke and that worries me a lot. I have enough problems buying Z's. If the prices start going through the roof I might have to switch to Miatas or RX7s or something. I guess I can take comfort in the fact that my brother-in-law bought the most rust free Z I've ever seen just a year ago, and that owner had gone to a Z club in the bay area and posted his car in their classifieds for over a year with no responses. My brother just happened to see it while driving down the street and stopped and offered the guy $500 and he took it. After some hoses got replaced and some cleaning of the gas tank and carbs it should be running again in about a week. SWEET Z for $500, now that's what I'm talking about.

That's one fast VW!!! Looks kinda ricey in the first shot. I wasn't expecting what I saw.

The lock bolt part is not a PITA. Loosen the nut till it is flush with the bottom of the threads, give it a good whack, and then when it breaks loose pull the nut and washers off and push it through and out the top. It is what comes immediately after that (getting the pin out) that is the trouble maker.

It's a PITA because the pin rusts inside the strut housing all the way down the whole length. Hammering on it screws up the pin and usually doesn't get it out. A press might work, but I was unable to press my really stuck one out with a 12 ton press. I called a bunch of shops in the area here and NOBODY wanted to mess with them. The puller tool works pretty well, but you need to see if it is around anymore and get on the waiting list for it. Search spindle pin though and you'll find tons of info on why it is such a PITA. Forrest was managing the tool loaner program, so you might PM him to see if the tools are still out there.

Sounds like you are pulling the spindle pins. STOP now. Search for spindle pin in this forum and read all about what you are doing before you go any further. This is one of the few things on a Z that is a real PITA. You might want to check on the spindle pin tool program and see if that tool is still floating around. If you don't need to change the outer control arm bushings you might consider just removing the whole A arm and strut and working with the whole piece. No real need to take the strut off the control arm other than it's a little easier to work on.

I'd sooner go with a set of hogged out SU's from ZTherapy than a 4 barrel. As for triples, Webers are still being produced and parts are easy to find. Mikunis aren't made any more and parts are still available but starting to become more scarce, but you can get them through Mikuni dealers like Rebello, Nissan Motorsports, and others. In my experience I can say that the Mikunis are easy to tune and don't need to be adjusted often. With a stroker I'd go 44's or 45's, not 40's.

Looks like those hood pins allow for 1" of "hood flap" to lower temps under there...

You can send the tires with no box at all. Sold 3 sets of slicks by using regular packing tape to tape 2 tires together in 3 spots around the tire, then slapped the label right on the tape. I wouldn't send wheels with no box, but for tires it works great. Basically the same thing that Tire Rack does when the send tires to me. "UPS Store" has a STEEP markup on shipping vs the actual UPS office for those who don't know.

Did you take out the stock proportioning valve? It is under the right side in the rear, looks like a T junction but it is actually the prop valve. IIRC you can take it off, unscrew the screw on it and remove the needle thingy inside then put it back in. Or you can just go to the auto parts store and get a new T without the valve and put that in there. FWIW I had Toy fronts and 280ZX rears and I never could get enough rear bias. At one point I went back to stock front brakes, and then the rears were definitely up to the job, but I think the think the Toy calipers were just too much for the rears in my case, and probably yours too.

That's pretty much what they did on the BRE 510 back in the day. VW (Porsche) CV's with a short little shaft, and adapters to go between the diff and the CV and the stub and the CV. I don't think you need to worry about the button or spring under the CV's. IIRC all of the Porsche CV's have the "tracks" for the balls at angles, 3 one way and 3 the other way. What that does is move the balls to the center, while allowing them to move either direction when necessary. If you pull one of your joints apart you'll see that the tracks look like this: / / / If you pick up a Porsche magazine you'll find that there are many shops that do custom axles for Porsches. I remember one where you could get gun drilled chromoly axles in any length you wanted. Probably $$$, but you should also be able to find one that isn't so expensive.

Good deal!!! Glad to help!

Just figure out where it the rotor points now, pull the dizzy drive, move it in the direction you want the rotor to go, stick it back in, then plug the distributor in again to verify that the rotor is now pointing further in the direction you want it to go. You'll see that the rotor moves 30º or so with every tooth. You'll still have to set the timing, but now you'll be adjusting in the middle of the range, instead of having the thing cranked all the way advanced to get only 5º BTDC. You could set it at TDC #1 and note where the rotor points in relation to the #1 spark plug wire, then make sure that the rotor is now pointing to just BEFORE the #1 spark plug wire. But all you need to do is advance it one tooth and set the timing with a light and you should be fine. Does that make sense?

When the clutch heats up and then starts slipping this can also be caused by lack of free play between the pedal and master cylinder. This happened to me when I let my brother in law drive my car at a track day. He kept slipping the clutch A LOT, then finally it really started slipping on shifts bad. I had NO freeplay in the adjustment, and when the fluid expanded it caused the clutch to be just slightly depressed, which then caused it to slip, which heated it up more, which caused it to be slightly MORE depressed, which caused it to slip more, etc, etc. It was a real bummer. Almost killed our day of fun. Finally a guy who knew about Z's helped me figure it out. We fixed the adjustment and bled the clutch, and it worked perfectly for another few years till I put triples on then it was just too wussy to keep up anymore...

Rotate in the advance direction. Easiest thing to do is to have a helper on top. Pull the oil pump, pull the shaft, rotate and have the person on top make sure that you went the right way.

The stock injection is pretty bad as far as airflow goes. I think that AFM is a pretty big restriction and the TB might be a bit on the small side too. Plus the stock cam doesn't really give the L6 the rpm range it deserves. Just slapping a set of triples on clears up all of those intake restrictions, but it isn't going to make your engine that much more powerful in and of itself. The triples breath well and make power at high rpms but you'll trade off some low rpm driveability. The cam as already stated isn't right to rev really high, so now you have an induction system that wants 7000 rpm and a cam that doesn't really want to go there. Plus you've now got to tune the carbs, which is not easy for some. The whole system works better when the engine and exhaust fit the triples. Triples work better on a car with higher compression, big cam, exhaust, etc. Just slapping triples on may gain some peak hp, but it's going to take some time to tune, a lot of money for the carbs and manifold, and you will LOSE all the advantages of FI, low speed driveability, mileage, etc. Here's a short clip to get an idea of the sound: http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=1562&cat=509&page=1 I LOVE the way they sound. You can really hear the engine open up and swallow air when you're at WOT. The engine I had in the car at the time of that video was 8.3:1 compression and medium cam. My Z has a LOT more bottom end now that I've upped the compression to 11:1 or so.