Metro

It's 12v with a 1k resistor, so it will be around 6-7 volts.

You will have to splice into the 280z body harness to complete the swap. It's been almost 10 years since I first did it, but it was pretty easy. You'll want to read the guide, look at your harness and make notes. The wire colors are mostly the same, but they do change over the years. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/38461-240z-260z-280z-turbo-swap-guide/

It sounds like you have a pretty good idea of what it will take. Your distributor will work for RPM input to MS in "distributor" mode. For a long time I used a '76 VR distributor with my turbo motor, You just need to disable the mechanical advance inside by welding or epoxying the moving parts. Wiring a VR dizzy is actually easier to do than the 82/83 optical distributor, you just need to configure MS for VR input and connect the two wires to MS. You can use a trigger wheel for RPM input and still use a single coil and distributor for spark output. I ran my car like that for about a year that way with a 6-1 wheel machined into the flywheel. You don't need a IAC unless you want one. If the "dumb" Nissan bi-metal idle air bypass still works, you can use that to bump up the idle on cold starts. You also don't have to use a stepper IAC, you can use a PWM IAC. The steppers theoretically should have better control over the idle, but many vehicles use PWM IAC valves. As a bonus a PWM IAC doesn't require a specially machined block like a stepper. To use a PWM valve you will have to mod the board when using MS1 or MS2. I'm currently in the process of wiring up a Ford 2 wire PWM IAC I grabbed off a Taurus. Not using the stepper IAC also frees up a few extra outputs from MS2 you can use for other things like tach or boost control. Oh and I'm mostly talking about MS2-extra, which is now basically MS3's code on MS2 hardware. The MS2-extra documentation and firmware is located at http://www.msextra.com/doc/

I've never seen that mod before, seems like a lot of work when you can just bolt on a $50 280zx distributor and achieve the same result. But anyway, the HEI4 modules are very finicky when it comes to the ground. Don't rely on just the base to ground the ignitor. Usually one of the bolt holes has a metal contact on it, run wire from that to the engine block to get a nice solid ground. Other than that, the HEI modules are pretty simple. You connect the coil to one side and your distributor to the other. I don't think you can screw up the VR output wiring either, it should work in either direction. You can test the HEI module and coil fairly easily. With everything powered on, tap 12v to the G spade and it should create a nice fat spark when you remove it.

Something like that yeah. Just check the logs for what KPa and RPM your engine cruises at and make adjustments.

You could lean up your cruising bins a lot more, I run 14.7 to 15 in my cruising bins (45-70kpa, 1700-3000rpm) and you could probably go even higher. Just try it out and see how your engine responds.

Have you not read the thread randy77zt linked to? Cleaner, maybe. Better? Dubious. All you need is a grinding wheel and a $30 sensor to use the 81 hardware.

Happy New Years, future man. Here's a gift from past man.

My first thought was that would be really thin, but then I looked at some aluminum IC tubing and it's only about twice that thickness. I suppose the next problem would be the shape and how well it could hold pressure. I really would like to make a dual plenum intake. It just seems like it's the right way to go with ITBs. If everything else doesn't work out, this is probably what I will be doing. I live in an area that's produced thousands of aluminum jet sleds, so finding a competent welder shouldn't be a problem. Although, half the fun is doing everything for myself.

Your AFR targets table is, well, probably the source of all your tuning issues. VEAL uses that table to tune and it's set to tune everything super rich - 10-11:1 AFR. You need to configure the table with the AFRs you want. With my old setup, cruising KPA was around 45-70, so set those as lean as you want for fuel economy, the rest is up to you.

Look at what the min temperature is set to under advanced settings. It should be set to something over 160 degrees. There's some other settings under there you might want to mess with too, like cell resistance and the kpa range. You don't need to disable EGO and Accel enrichment, it should work around those, at least the old MegaLogViewer version worked that way. If you were tuning manually off the log file, then you definitely should disable those to make your life easier.

Thanks, they're 46mm Suzuki GSXR ITBs with DCOE adapters. I fired it up last Sunday, but it's still a work in progress. I'm still probably a month or two away from driving it, there's about a dozen small problems to work through.

A car that has been sitting for 10 years? You need to do all the basic tune up stuff, change filters, check the plugs, plug wires, etc. Diagnosing a no-start is pretty simple: does it have fuel, spark, and air? Check all your the systems one by one and you'll find the problem. Disconnect the fuel line after the fuel filter and run it into a bottle, does anything come out? The filter is probably plugged with 10 years worth of rust from the tank. Your pump could also be clogged with all the junk in the tank too. You need to establish fuel flow, then go from there.

Well, Santa didn't bring me a plenum this year and I'm seriously beginning to question his commitment.

I think the problems I had were my own. I would lose the signal over 5800rpm and that might have something to do with the specific sensor I was using. My dad gave me a stainless steel Caterpillar VR sensor. It looked nice, so used it. Originally it was made for reading the teeth of a flywheel to get the engine rpm. I don't know the specs on it, but it might be possible that 5k+ rpm was outside its operating range. Up until that point, it was fine. It was really finicky about the gap too, I pretty much had a 1/2 a turn range where it would and wouldn't work. There's also the chance I mounted it slightly out of position on the cover plate. By easier, I meant you don't have to drop the transmission, it's my least favorite thing to do.

I used the flywheel method and it pretty well. The flywheel is large and stable so theoretically should give the best signal if the divots are positioned correctly. I just had problems with my sensor and possibly the positioning of it in relation to the divots. Currently I'm using a 30-1 wheel made out of the '81 l28et's 90 tooth wheel with a hall sensor, I think this is probably the easiest way to go with stock parts. Just have to remove the pulley and grind two teeth for every one. I think there's enough material and it sticks out far enough that you could grind down all the teeth and make wider teeth like an OEM 36-1 wheel has. I haven't had any issues with the little nubs losing the signal though.

The QuadSpark is just four BIP373 ignitors in a nice little package. Obviously you can make your own for much cheaper if you wanted by just buying the ignitors separately from DIY. It's all up to you. That's pretty much the theme of MS, it's all up to you. It will work with just about any hardware setup you can cobble together. I'm using GM DIS coilpacks because I liked the packaging. It was fairly easy to scrape the guts out of it and wire up the coilpacks to use the BIP373 ignitors. Like randy mentioned, some people even use COP in wasted spark mode. I think this might reduce the life of the coils, but I'm not really that familiar with it.

To answer your quesiton: no, edis is setup for a 36-1 signal, sending it a 12-1 would probably confuse it. I would ditch the EDIS and use three BIP373 ignitors with megasquirt. EDIS is a left over from the olden days when MS was less developed. I'm sure there's other reasons, but in my mind, it's just superfluous hardware. With a trigger wheel (anything divisible by 6 cylinders: 6-1, 12-1, 30-1, 36-1, etc), MS-extra has all the information to control a wasted spark setup by itself. With the DIY 12-1 wheel, all you need to run wasted spark is three ignitors or something like DIY's Quad Spark ignition module.

You're probably using the built in ignitor that comes with the v3 board. You should have a wire running from the coil (-) to pin #36 (last pin, bottom right corner) on the ECU. If that's the case, then D14 is showing spark output and since you mentioned it's flickering, at least you know it's trying to fire the coil. If it's not going to pin #36 then it could have been setup to use the FIDLE output using an external ignitor. Could be a GM HEI, stock ignitor, or MSD box - basically any ignitor you can think of will work with MS. Your fuel pump should be connected to a relay which is grounded by pin #37 on MS, if it's not, then I suggest you do that. MS will only turn the fuel pump on when it detects an RPM signal. Once you get your cable, you can see exactly how the software was configured and then you can check to see if the hardware matches up. I suggest you spend some time reading the MS-extra manual while you wait. You could also double check and clean all of the grounds from megasquirt if you haven't.

If the fuel pump is on and the injectors are firing, you have an RPM signal. You should start trouble shooting from MS to your coil. If the LEDs haven't been used for other things, left to right: D14 - INJ (pulsing when running), D15 - Warmup Mode (on until the engine is out of warm up mode), and D16 - Accel (on when you blip the throttle). If the PO used D14 for spark output, it will flicker as it attempts to fire the coil.

There's two bolts on the underside in line with the #3 and #5 runner. They will be most likely be seized and if it they do break loose, be prepared to lose several square inches of skin on the lip of the heat shield. You don't really need to take the shield off to remove the manifold. You can reach the bolts on the underside with a 12" extension. There should be a gap between the heat shield and the manifold where you can see the washers. Just fish around there until it's grabbed onto something solid. And good luck getting those off as others have mentioned. Penetrating oil is your friend.

Do not do this. All Zs use low impedance injectors. Which means there's resistors either in the ecu or wired inline which reduces the current. You will fry them and cause more problems. In other words "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." I would say most problems with "injectors not firing" has to do with the input/output from the ECU. Injectors not getting power is pretty far down on the list.

That reminded me of this guy with the Ferrari/T-5 setup, wonder if he's still working on it.

All the missing images are hosted on http://princemakaha.homestead.com/ which is dead.

I kind of figured you could find a dealer and then they could order it from Japan. I get the feeling it would cost a ridiculous amount, like double what I plan on spending total, just for one piece. I was planning on finally going to MS2 (extra, of course), I have great faith in Megasquirt. I've been running MSNS-extra since 2006, long before autotune/ve analyzer popped up. I've been reading your threads and a MAF was part of the plan, or at least, I recognize I'll have to ditch speed density at some point for it. I know this won't be easy, but that's half the fun. I get bored if I'm not doing anything and this seemed like a good project to tackle while it's raining for the next 8 months.